Rain Barrel Gallery

Open Top Rain Barrel

This configuration works for folks with or without gutters. Place it under the eaves, a roof valley or under your downspout. A flexible downspout adapter can direct your gutter downspout directly into the open top.

Before you start:

Rinse your barrel and let it dry.
Give some thought to where you will locate the barrel, how high the spigot needs to be in order to access with hose or watering can, and where you will utilize the overflow.

Tools:

A reciprocating saw or a Jigsaw and powercord
Drill & drill bits
15/16” bit for the ¾” spigot (A 1” bit will work, but won’t be as tight)
Channel-lock pliers, pliers or adjustable wrench
Scissors for the screen
If you will place under the eaves : 15/16” bit for the ¾” overflow valve
If you will place under a downspout or roof valley: ....bit for the sump hose

Parts:

¾” hose bib & ¾” conduit locknut or a female pvc adapter
¾ x ¾ hose adapter (for the overflow) watts #
Teflon plumbers tape
Nylon screen
Bungee cord, 48” is easiest, 36” will work
If you will place under the eaves, you’ll need a piece of garden hose for overflow. A hose repair fitting can be used to make a custom garden hose.
If you will place under a downspout or roof valley, you’ll need a piece of sump hose
Optional:
Silicone caulk, paintable and a damp rag

Rainwater entrance:

Using your reciprocating saw or jigsaw, cut a hole in the top of your barrel.

The opening can be any shape. Round is easy, because you can use the barrel rim as your guide. Do leave the rim intact, as this provides more structural integrity for your barrel. Take your time, plastic can be harder than you think.

You’ll want to have a helper that will steady the barrel as you work. Be sure that your helper stays out of the saw blades path, in case it jumps out of the groove.

Cut a piece of screen to cover the top of your barrel, with enough overlap for bungee cord. Put screen aside.

Options:

Instead of a bungee cord, you can use screws to affix the screen. This means a little more trouble to access the inside, but it looks neater.

Instead of screen, use a colander in the top of the barrel. Be sure that it has find enough mesh to exclude mosquitoes, or line it with screen. This opening will need a jigsaw to cut a more precise hole.

The spigot:
Drill a hole for the spigot (hose bib), using a 15/16’ bit. The spigot should be close to the bottom, just above the curve of the barrel. Leave enough room for some sediment accumulation, and access for watering can or hose.

Again, take your time, and apply light, even pressure to the bit.

Screw in the 3/4” hose bibb. This threads the hole. You’ll need pliers or a wrench, as the fit will be very tight.

Back out the hose bibb, wrap the threads with silicone tape. Once around is enough. Always wrap the tape away from the direction of the turn, or it will bunch up when you screw it in. If this happens, clean off the tape, and try again.

Screw it into the 1” hole. From inside the barrel, attach and tighten the conduit locknut. Be careful to keep threads aligned properly.

The Overflow

If your barrel will be under the eaves:
Drill a 15/16” hole for the overflow. The overflow should be near the top. Allow room for the bungee cord and screen that will cover the top of your barrel.
Think about which side you will want to utilize the overflow.
The overflow will be the maximum level at which your barrel will hold water.

Insert the ¾ x ¾ brass hose adapter.
Try to get the fitting flush with the barrel. It will be very tight, file if necessary, but not too much. Use pliers or wrench to tighten.

This fitting can be used to attach a garden hose. Direct this to a rain garden, thirsty plants, or other needy area. Don’t send this to you neighbor’s yard, impervious areas, or the storm drain.

If your barrel will be under a downspout or roof valley:
Using a bit, drill a hole for the sump hose.

Using the screen that you cut earlier, cover the top of you rain barrel and secure with a bungee cord. Trim as needed.

Congratulations! You have completed your Rain Barrel.

Your barrel should be located on a sturdy, level surface. Elevating on blocks allows for better flow and easier access to the spigot. A full barrel weighs over 400lbs., be sure that it cannot tip over. Most decks are not designed for such a load in a small space.

This screen should exclude mosquitoes and debris. If mosquitoes gain access, dump the water and find their access. Mosquito dunks may also be used. Mosquito dunks are a disease selected to kill only mosquitoes.

Barrels must not admit any light, to prevent the growth of algae. There are several types of paints and primers formulated to adhere to plastic.

Once a year, clean the inside of your barrel. Hose it out and rinse with vinegar.