The Extension Agent's
Handbook for Emergency Preparation and Response
A Special Project
by
Texas Agricultural Extension Service
and
Hazard Reduction and Recovery Center
with funding provided by
Extension Service-United States Department of Agriculture
Dr. D. L. Bilbo Jay Todd
Project Director Project Associate
Introduction
The Extension Agent's Handbook for Disaster Preparedness and Response
can be a valuable response tool for you, the Extension agent, in times
of emergency or as an aid in preparedness education activities. The
Handbook is divided into two parts to provide the information you need
in an easy-to-use format. The first section of the Handbook, General
Family Preparedness, provides basic information you may need to access
quickly in any disaster or emergency situation. It also may be used as
a preparedness education tool for the public.
The second section of the Handbook covers 10 disaster specific
situations. For the purposes of this manual, a disaster is any event
which drastically affects a person's life or livelihood. Floods,
fires, hurricanes, tornadoes, winter storms, earthquakes, droughts and
volcanic eruptions are considered to be natural disasters, events over
which one usually has no control. Radiological and hazardous materials
accidents may be caused by the failure of people to maintain control
over the operation, transportation or storage of certain materials. In
addition to an overview of the disaster, each section provides a series
of preparedness measures and post-disaster responses that should be
taken in conjunction with those outlined in the General Family
Preparedness section.
This handbook is not intended to cover every situation. It provides
basic information you will need for a disaster situation and early
post-disaster response. Because every community is different, special
consideration for the local area should be taken into account along
with the information provided in the Handbook.
Pages and sections of the Handbook may be removed and photocopied.
Information is structured in a manner conducive to public use.
Extension agents are encouraged to provide copies of the material to
the public both as "preventive education" and for response needs.
This Handbook was developed as a joint effort of Extension
Service-United States Department of Agriculture, the Texas Agricultural
Extension Service and the Hazard Reduction and Recovery Center, Texas
A&M University.
The information given herein is for educational purpose only.
Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the
understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by
the Texas Agricultural Extension Service is implied.
Educational programs conducted by the Texas Agricultural Extension
Service serve citizens of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level,
race, color, sex, religion, disability or national origin. Issued in
furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home
Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, in cooperation with the
United States Department of Agriculture. Zerle L. Carpenter, Director,
Texas Agricultural Extension Service, The Texas A&M University System.
9/94
Acknowledgments
The following agencies and individuals have contributed to the
development of this handbook.
American Red Cross-National Headquarters American Red Cross-Brazos
Valley Chapter Arkansas Cooperative Extension Colorado Earthquake
Hazard Reduction Program (CEHRP) Federal Emergency Management Agency
Florida Cooperative Extension Service Hazard Reduction and Recovery
Center-Texas A&M University (HRRC) Kansas State Cooperative Extension
Service National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) National Weather
Service Natural Hazards Centers-University of Colorado North Carolina
Cooperative Extension Service North Carolina Emergency Management
Penn State University Texas Agricultural Extension Service (TAEX)
Texas Agri-Business Electric United States Department of
Agriculture-Extension Service (ES-USDA) United States Department of
Agriculture-Agriculture (Ag-USDA) United States Fire Administration
(USFA) Washington State Cooperative Extension
Meri K. Appy - NFPA Dr. David Bilbo - TAEX/HRRC Dr. Wayne Blanchard -
FEMA Dr. Judith Bowers - ES-USDA Dr. Billy Caldwell - NC Extension
Jim Coyle - USFA Dr. Chester Fehlis - TAEX Dr. Guy Fipps - TAEX Wilma
Hammet - NC Extension Dr. Phil Hamman - TAEX Catherine Henry - NC EM
Dr. Glenda Herman - NC Extension Dr. Jennie Kitching - TAEX Harriet
Jennings - NC Extension Virginia Kimball Dr. Bruce Lesikar - TAEX
Shirley Lewis - TAEX
Dr. Elizabeth Limersal - FEMA Dr. Rocky Lopes - ARC Mary Fran
Myers - Natural Hazards Center Dr. Sherry Oaks - CEHRP Dr. Nell Page
- TAEX Greg Parham - ES-USDA Dr. Susan Quiring - TAEX Brad Rein -
ES-USDA Gordon Riall - TAEX Dr. Milo Schult - AR Extension Greg Stark
- Texas Agri-Business Electric Bob Stephens - WA Extension Dr. John
Sweeten - TAEX William Thomas - B/CS Red Cross Jay Todd - TAEX Dr.
Doug Welsh - TAEX Dr. Dennis Wenger - HRRC Don Wernly - National
Weather Service
Sandra Zaslow - NC ExtensionSupplemental funding for reproduction
and distribution provided by the
College of Architecture
Texas A&M University. Table
of Contents
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . i
Acknowledgments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ii
General Family Preparedness. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Why Preparedness? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Family Disaster Supply Kit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
4-Step Family Preparedness Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Preparing Children for Disaster. . . . . . . . . . . 10
Special Preparations for People with Disabilities. . 10
Special Preparations for the Hearing Impaired. . . . 11
Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired . . . 11
Evacuation Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Preparing for Evacuation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Evacuating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Returning Home After the Disaster. . . . . . . . . . 15
When Disaster Strikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
The Role of Government After a Disaster. . . . . . . 16
Emotional Recovery After a Disaster . . . . . . . . . . 17
Helping Children Cope After a Disaster . . . . . . . 18
Food Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Precautions Against Power Outages. . . . . . . . . . 20
After a Power Outage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tornado and Wind Related Contamination . . . . . . . 21
Flooded Food Recovery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Food Safety After a Fire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Insurance and Resources After a Disaster. . . . . . . . 24
Special Post-Disaster Considerations. . . . . . . . . . 26
Restoring Flooded Water Systems. . . . . . . . . . . 26
Disinfecting Wells . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Disposing of Animal Carcasses. . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Additional Resources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Drought .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Water Conservation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Water Conservation at Home. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Reading a Water Meter To Measure Leaks. . . . . . . . . 34
Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead. . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Installing Shower Flow Restrictors. . . . . . . . . . . 34
Installing Toilet Dams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Water Saving Steps When Remodeling. . . . . . . . . . . 36
Making Repairs To Toilets To Stop Water Loss. . . . . . 36
Repairing Faucet Leaks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Adding New Landscape Or Redesigning The Yard. . . . . . 39
Landscape Water Conservation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Watering Lawns and Plants During a Drought. . . . . . . 44
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 45
Developing a Crop Water Management Plan. . . . . . . 45
Crop Water Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies . 46
Developing and Improving Vegetative Cover. . . . . . 48
Maintaining Vegetative Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Managing Salinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Earthquakes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
How Earthquakes are Measured. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Preparing for an Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
During an Earthquake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Responses Inside Buildings During an Earthquake . . . . 55
Responses if You are Outside During an Earthquake . . . 55
After an Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 57
Residential Fires. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Fire Safety and Prevention. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
What to Do in Case of a Fire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
What to Do After a Fire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Floods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Preparing for Floods and Flash Floods . . . . . . . . . 63
Building Dikes To Prevent Minor Surface Flooding. . . . 64
Preventing Leaks in Basements . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Cleaning Up After a Flood Setting Priorities. . . . . . 67
Salvaging Sewing Machines and Sergers . . . . . . . . . 68
Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses. . . . . . 69
Cleaning Flood-soiled Blankets, Quilts, Comforters, Linens 72
Restoring Electrical Service After a Flood. . . . . . . 74
Flooded Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Checking Flood-damaged Buildings. . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements. . . . . . . . 79
Finding and Repairing Leaks in Roofs. . . . . . . . . . 81
Controlling Rodents After Floods. . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Controlling Insects After Floods. . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 84
Preparing For a Flood or Flash Flood on Your Farm or Ranch 84
Protecting Livestock During a Flood. . . . . . . . . 84
Preparing to Evacuate Your Farm. . . . . . . . . . . 85
Safety Rules for Farm Clean-up . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Hazardous Materials Accidents. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Preparing for Hazardous Materials Accidents in the Home 88
What to Do If a Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs . . 90
After a Hazardous Materials Incident. . . . . . . . . . 91
Reacting to a Hazardous Spill in Your Home. . . . . . . 92
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 93
What to do if a Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs. 93
After a Hazardous Materials Accident . . . . . . . . 93
Hurricanes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
How and Where Hurricanes Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Why Hurricanes are a Risk to People . . . . . . . . . . 95
How to Prepare for a Hurricane. . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Actions During a Hurricane Situation. . . . . . . . . . 97
Basic Response After a Hurricane. . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . . 99
Turf Grass Recovery After a Storm Surge. . . . . . . 99
Recovering Small Fruits. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101
Radiological Accidents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
Radiation Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
Preparing for a Nuclear Power Plant Accident. . . . . .105
What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency . . . . .106
Safety of Home Gardens After a Nuclear Accident . . . .107
Recovering Losses and Expenses from a Nuclear Accident.107
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . .108
What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency. . . .108
Animal Care After a Nuclear Accident . . . . . . . .109
Recovering Exposed Fruits, Vegetables and Soils. . .110
Monitoring Fish and Marine Life. . . . . . . . . . .111
Marketing Animals and Products . . . . . . . . . . .111
Tornadoes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
How to Prepare for a Tornado. . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
Special Precautions for Mobile Home Dwellers. . . . . .114
What to Do During a Tornado Warning . . . . . . . . . .115
Responses After a Tornado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
Inspecting Buildings for Hidden Wind Damage . . . . . .116
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . .117
Volcanic Eruptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
Preparing for a Volcanic Eruption . . . . . . . . . . .119
During a Volcanic Eruption. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
Driving in Heavy Ash Areas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
Winter Storms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
Preparing for Winter Storms . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
Special Considerations for Travelers. . . . . . . . . .125
Winterizing Mobile Homes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
Winterizing Residential Buildings . . . . . . . . . . .129
Preparations to Reduce Heat Loss from Buildings . . . .130
What To Do During a Home Power Failure. . . . . . . . .131
Responses to Other Heat Loss Problems . . . . . . . . .134
Protecting Your Hot Water System. . . . . . . . . . . .135
Protecting Your Plumbing System . . . . . . . . . . . .136
Protecting Your Sewage System . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Protecting Appliances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Preventing Ice Dams on Eaves. . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
Responses to Take When Caught Outdoors. . . . . . . . .139
Responses If Trapped By a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .140
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers . . .141
Preparing for a Winter Storm . . . . . . . . . . . .141
Providing Windbreaks for Livestock Protection. . . .142
Creating Windbreaks On Your Property . . . . . . . .143
Protecting Livestock During Winter Storms. . . . . .145
Caring for Livestock After a Blizzard. . . . . . . .146
Feeding Cattle After a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .146
Feeding Sheep After a Blizzard . . . . . . . . . . .147
Feeding Horses After a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .147
Feeding Swine After a Blizzard . . . . . . . . . . .147
Protecting Poultry and Livestock . . . . . . . . . .148
Protecting Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
Storing Milk and Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
Repairing Ice and Snow Damage to Shrubs and Trees. .150
Subject Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
General Family Preparedness
General Family Preparedness . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Why Preparedness?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Family Disaster Supply Kit . . . . . . . . . . 2
4-Step Family Preparedness Plan. . . . . . . . 7
Preparing Children for Disaster . . . . . . 10
Special Preparations for People with Disabilities 10
Special Preparations for the Hearing Impaired. . 11
Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired. . 11
Evacuation Procedures. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Preparing for Evacuation. . . . . . . . . . 13
Evacuating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Returning Home After the Disaster . . . . . 15
When Disaster Strikes. . . . . . . . . . . 16
The Role of Government After a Disaster . . 16
Emotional Recovery After a Disaster. . . . . 17
Helping Children Cope After a Disaster . . . 18
Food Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . 20
Precautions Against Power Outages . . . . . 20
After a Power Outage. . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tornado and Wind Related Contamination. . . 21
Flooded Food Recovery . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Food Safety After a Fire. . . . . . . . . . 23
Insurance and Resources After a Disaster . . . 24
Special Post-Disaster Considerations . . . . . 26
Restoring Flooded Water Systems . . . . . . 26
Disinfecting Wells. . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Disposing of Animal Carcasses . . . . . . . 28
Additional Resources . . . . . . .. . . . . 29
General Family Preparedness
Disasters can affect any part of the United States at any time of the
year, swiftly and without warning. Most people don't think of a
disaster until it is too late; then they suddenly realize how
unprepared they are for the massive changes it makes in their lives.
Local officials can be overwhelmed and emergency response personnel
may not be able to reach everyone who needs help right away.
Each type of disaster requires clean-up and recovery. The period
after a disaster is often very difficult for families, at times as
devastating as the disaster itself. Families which are prepared
ahead of time can reduce the fear, confusion and losses that come
with disaster. They can be ready to evacuate their homes, know what
to expect in public shelters and how to provide basic first aid.
Family Disaster Supply Kit
One of the first steps toward preparedness is the creation of a
family disaster supply kit. This will help families get through the
first few days after a disaster. Public shelter after a disaster may
not offer some of the basic necessities. The development of a kit
will make a stay in a public shelter more comfortable, should it be
necessary. Store the kit in a convenient place known to all family
members. Store items in airtight bags or containers. Replenish the
kit twice a year.
Include six basic items:
Water (page 2) Food (page 3) First Aid Kit (page 4) Tools and
Supplies (page 5) Clothing and Bedding (page 6) Special Items
(page 6)
1. Water
Store water in clean plastic containers such as thoroughly washed
and rinsed soft drink bottles with tight fitting screw-on caps.
Store 1 gallon per day per family member (2 quarts for drinking, 2
quarts for food preparation/ sanitation). Children, nursing mothers
and ill people will need more. A 3-day supply of water should be
stored for every family member.
Replace water every 6 months.
Notes:
2. Food
Store at least a 3-day supply of non-perishable food. Select foods
that require no refrigeration, preparation or cooking and little or
no water. If you must heat food, pack a can of sterno. Rotate these
foods into the regular diet frequently to keep the supply fresh. In
a disaster supply kit include:
Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits and vegetables
Canned juices, milk, soup (if powdered, store extra water)
Staples such as sugar, salt, pepper
High energy foods such as peanut butter, jelly, crackers, granola
bars, trail mix
Vitamins, infant food and food for special diets
Comfort/stress foods such as cookies, hard candy, instant coffee,
tea bags
Notes:
3. First Aid Kit
Assemble a first aid kit for the home and one for each vehicle. An
approved American Red Cross kit may be purchased, or one may be
assembled with the following items:
Sterile adhesive bandages in assorted sizes
2-inch and 4-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6 of each)
Hypoallergenic adhesive tape
Triangular bandages (3)
2-inch and 3-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls each)
Scissors
Tweezers
Needle
Moistened towelettes
Antiseptic
Thermometer Tongue blades (2)
Sunscreen
Tube of petroleum jelly or other lubricant
Assorted sizes of safety pins
Cleansing agent/soap
Latex gloves (2 pairs)
Non-prescription drugs
Aspirin or nonaspirin pain reliever
Anti-diarrhea medication
Antacid (for stomach upset)
Syrup of Ipecac (use to induce vomiting if advised by the Poison
Control Center)
Laxative
Activated charcoal (use if advised by the Poison Control Center)
Notes:
4. Tools and Supplies
Various tools and supplies may be needed for temporary repairs or
personal needs. Include these items in your disaster supply kit:
Battery operated radio and extra batteries
Flashlight and extra batteries
Non-electric can opener, utility knife
Map of the area (for locating shelters)
Cash or traveler's checks, change
Fire extinguisher: small canister, ABC type
Tube tent
Pliers
Tape
Compass
Matches in waterproof container
Aluminum foil
Plastic storage containers
Signal flare Paper, pencil
Needles, thread
Medicine dropper
Shut-off wrench, to turn off household gas and water
Whistle
Plastic sheeting
Mess kits or paper cups, plates and plastic utensils
Emergency preparedness manual
Sanitation
Toilet paper
Soap, liquid detergent
Feminine hygiene supplies
Personal hygiene items
Plastic garbage bags, ties (for personal sanitation uses)
Plastic bucket with tight lid
Disinfectant
Household chlorine bleach
Notes:
5. Clothing and Bedding
Your disaster supply kit should include at least one complete change
of clothing and footwear per person. Items to include are:
Sturdy shoes or work boots
Rain gear Blankets or sleeping bags
Hat and gloves
Thermal underwear
Sunglasses
6. Special Items
Family members may have special needs. Other items you may add to
your kit include:
For Babies:
Formula
Diapers
Bottles
Powdered milk
Medications
For Adults:
Heart and high blood pressure medication
Insulin
Prescription drugs
Denture needs
Contact lenses and supplies
Extra pair of eye glasses Entertainment
Games and books
Important Family Documents:
Keep these in a waterproof, portable container.
Wills, insurance policies, contracts, deeds, stocks and bonds
Passports, social security cards, immunization records
Bank account numbers
Credit card account numbers and companies
Inventory of valuable goods, important telephone numbers
Family records (birth, marriage, death certificates)
4-Step Family Preparedness Plan
In addition to your family disaster supply kit, develop a family
preparedness plan. This plan needs to be known to all family
members. A basic preparedness plan has four steps:
Do your homework (page 7) Create a family disaster plan (page 8)
Make a checklist and periodically update it (page 8) Practice and
maintain your plan (page 9)
1. Do your homework
Find out what disasters could happen in your area. Contact your
local emergency management or civil defense office and American Red
Cross chapter to:
Learn which disasters are possible where you live and how these
disasters might affect your family.
Request information on how to prepare and respond to each
potential disaster.
Learn about your community's warning signals, what they sound like,
what they mean and what actions you should take when they are activated.
Learn about local, state or federal assistance plans.
Find out about the emergency response plan for your workplace, your
children's school or day-care center, as well as other places where
your family spends time.
Develop a list of important telephone numbers (doctor, work, school,
relatives) and keep it in a prominent place in your home.
Ask about animal care. Pets may not be allowed inside shelters
because of health regulations.
Notes:
2. Create a family disaster plan
Discuss with your family the need to prepare for disaster. Explain
the danger of fire, severe weather (tornadoes, hurricanes) and floods
to children. Develop a plan to share responsibilities and how to
work together as a team.
Discuss the types of disasters that are
most likely to occur and how to respond.
Establish meeting places inside and
outside your home, as well as outside the neighborhood. Make
sure everyone knows when and how to contact each other if
separated. Decide on the best escape routes from
your home. Identify two ways out of each room.
Plan how to take care of your pets.
Establish a family contact out-of-town
(friend or relative). Call this person after the disaster to
let them know where you are and if you are okay. Make sure
everyone knows the contact's phone number.
Learn what to do if you are advised to evacuate.
3. Make a checklist and periodically update it
Post emergency telephone numbers by phones (fire, police, ambulance,
etc.).
Teach your children how and when to call 911 or your local EMS
number for help.
Show each family member how to turn off the water, gas and
electricity at the main valves or switches.
Teach each family member how to use a fire extinguisher (ABC type)
and have a central place to keep it. Check it each year.
Install smoke detectors on each level of your home, especially near
bedrooms. Conduct a home hazard hunt.
Stock emergency supplies and assemble a disaster supply kit.
Learn basic first aid. At the very least, each family member should
know CPR, how to help someone who is choking and first aid for
severe bleeding and shock. The Red Cross offers basic training of
this nature.
Identify safe places in your home to go for each type of disaster.
Check to be sure you have adequate insurance coverage.
Notes:
4. Practice and maintain your plan
Test children's knowledge of the plan every 6 months so they remember
what to do.
Conduct fire and emergency evacuation drills. Replace stored water
and food every 6 months.
Test your smoke detectors monthly and change the batteries once a year.
And... In conjunction with the preparedness plan, working with
neighbors can save lives and property. Meet with neighbors to plan
how the neighborhood could work together after a disaster until help
arrives. Members of a neighborhood organization, such as a home
association or crime watch group, can introduce disaster preparedness
as a new activity.
Know your neighbors' special skills (medical, technical) and consider
how to help neighbors who have special needs, such as disabled and
elderly persons. Make plans for child care in case parents can't get
home.
Notes:
Preparing Children for Disaster
As you develop your preparedness plan, include children in the
planning process. Teach your children how to recognize danger
signals. Make sure they know what smoke detectors and other alarms
sound like. Make sure they know how and when to call for help. If
you live in a 9-1-1 service area, tell your child to call 9-1-1. If
not, check your telephone directory for the number. Keep all
emergency numbers posted by the phone. Help your children to
memorize important family information. They should memorize their
family name, phone number and address. They also should know where
to meet in case of an emergency. If children are not old enough to
memorize the information, they should carry a small index card to
give to an adult or babysitter that lists the emergency information.
Special Preparations for People with Disabilities
People with disabilities may need to take additional steps to prepare
for disaster. If you are disabled or know someone who is, the
following precautions should be taken.
Ask about special assistance that may be
available to you in an emergency. Many communities ask people
with disabilities to register, usually with the fire department
or emergency management office, so needed help can be provided
quickly in an emergency.
If you currently use a personal care
attendant obtained from an agency, check to see if the agency
has special provisions for emergencies (e.g. providing services
at another location should an evacuation be ordered).
Determine what you will need to do for
each type of emergency. For example, most people head for a
basement when there is a tornado warning, but most basements are
not wheelchair accessible. Determine in advance what your
alternative shelter will be and how you will get there. Learn
what to do in case of power outages and personal injuries. Know
how to connect or start a back-up power supply for essential
medical equipment.
If you or someone in your household
uses a wheelchair, make more than one exit from your home
wheelchair accessible in case the primary exit is blocked.
Consider getting a medic alert system
that will allow you to call for help if you are immobilized in
an emergency.
Store back-up equipment, such as a
manual wheelchair, at a neighbor's home, school or your
workplace.
Avoid possible hazards by fastening
shelves to the wall and placing large, heavy objects on the
lower shelves or near the wall. Also hang pictures or mirrors
away from beds. Bolt large pictures or mirrors to the wall.
Secure water heaters by strapping them to a nearby wall.
Special Preparations for the Hearing Impaired
Deaf or hearing impaired individuals will have a more difficult time
communicating after a disaster. People may not realize you can't
hear warning signals and instructions, and may leave you behind. If
there is a power failure, your teletypewriter will be useless, and
communicating in the dark will require a flashlight. To avoid
potential problems you should:
Make sure you have a flashlight, pad and
pencil by your bed at home. Ask a neighbor to be your source of
information as it comes over the radio.
Remind co-workers that you can't hear an evacuation order.
If you are trapped in a room, knock on the door or hit objects
together to let others know you are there.
Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired
Blind or visually impaired individuals will have a difficult time
after a disaster if surroundings have been greatly disrupted. In
addition, seeing eye dogs may be too frightened or injured to be
reliable. Have an extra cane at home and work, even if you have a
seeing eye dog. If you are trapped, make noise to alert others.
Also keep in mind that, if electricity fails, blind people can assist
sighted people and potentially save lives.
Notes:
Evacuation Procedures
Evacuations during a disaster are a common event. Evacuation
procedures vary by location and disaster. Contact your local
emergency management or civil defense office for specific
evacuation plans.
The amount of time you will have to evacuate depends on the
disaster. Some disasters, such as hurricanes, may allow several days to
prepare. Hazardous materials accidents may only allow moments
to leave. This means that preparation is essential since there
may not be time to collect the basic necessities.
Evacuations can last for several days. During this time you may be
responsible for part or all of your own food, clothing and other
supplies.
Preparing for Evacuation (page 13)
Evacuating (page 14)
Returning Home After the Disaster (page 15)
Notes:
Preparing for Evacuation
Advance planning will make evacuation procedures easier. First, you
should have your family disaster supply kit and plan ready.
Additional steps that can aid preparedness include:
1. Review possible evacuation procedures with your family.
Ask a friend or relative outside your area to be the check-in
contact so that everyone in the family can call that person
to say they are safe.
Find out where children will be sent if they are in school when
an evacuation is announced.
2. Plan now where you would go if you had to evacuate.
Consider the homes of relatives or friends who live nearby, but
outside the area of potential disaster. Contact the local emergency
management office for community evacuation plans. Review public
information to identify reception areas and shelter areas.
3. Keep fuel in your car's gas tank at all times. During emergencies,
filling stations may be closed. Never store extra fuel in the garage.
4. If you do not have a car or other vehicle, make transportation
arrangements with friends, neighbors or your local emergency
management office.
5. Know where and how to shut off electricity, gas and water at main
switches and valves. Make sure you have the tools you need to do
this (usually pipe and crescent or adjustable wrenches). Check
with your local utilities for instructions.
Notes:
Evacuating
When you are told to evacuate there are four steps you need to take:
1. If there is time, secure your house.
Unplug appliances.
In a flood hazard area, store propane tanks or secure them
safely to the structure.
Turn off the main water valve.
Take any actions needed to prevent damage to water pipes by
freezing weather, if this is a threat. Securely close and
lock all doors, windows and garage.
2. Follow recommended evacuation routes. Do not take shortcuts,
they may be blocked.
3. Listen to the radio for emergency shelter information.
4. Carry your family disaster supply kit.
Notes: Returning Home After the Disaster
1. Do not return until the local authorities say it is safe.
2. Continue listening to the radio for information and instructions.
3. Use extreme caution when entering or working in buildings
structures may have been damaged or weakened. Watch for
poisonous snakes in flooded structures and debris.
4. Do not take lanterns, torches or any kind of flame into a damaged
building. There may be leaking gas or other flammable materials
present. Use battery-operated flashlights for light. If you
suspect a gas leak, do not use any kind of light. The light
itself could cause an explosion.
5. If you smell leaking gas, turn off the main gas valve at the meter.
If you can open windows safely, do so.
Do not turn on lights they can produce sparks that may ignite the gas.
Leave the house immediately and notify the gas company or the
fire department.
Do not reenter the house until an
authorized person tells you it is safe to do so.
6. Notify the power company or fire
department if you see fallen or damaged electrical wires.
7. If any of your appliances are wet, turn
off the main electrical power switch in your home before
you unplug them. Dry out appliances, wall switches and
sockets before you plug them in again. Call utility
companies for assistance.
8. Check food and water supplies for
contamination and spoilage before using them.
9. Wear sturdy shoes when walking through broken glass or debris,
and use heavy gloves when removing debris.
10. After the emergency is over, telephone your family and friends
to tell them you are safe.
Notes:
When Disaster Strikes
Hopefully you will never have to experience disaster. When it does
happen, however, try to remain calm and patient and put your family
preparedness plan into action. You should follow the following
steps:
Retrieve your disaster supply kit.
Wear protective clothing and sturdy shoes.
Confine or secure pets to protect them.
Go to the safe place in your home you identified and stay there
until well after the disaster is over.
Listen to your battery-powered radio for news and
instructions.
Evacuate, if advised to do so.
The Role of Government After a Disaster
After a preliminary damage assessment report has been completed, the
governor of a state can request a major disaster or emergency
declaration from the president.
Declaration of an Emergency. The president can issue a Declaration
of Emergency to supplement the state and local effort to save lives
and protect property. The president can act only after a state
governor has requested a Declaration of an Emergency be issued.
Total assistance provided in any given emergency declaration may not
exceed $5 million. Declaration of a Major Disaster. A major
disaster declaration may be requested by the governor to the
president after a natural catastrophe occurs. Assistance is offered
to both the public and private sectors. With the declaration, the
Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) has the authority to
engage the services of 12 federal departments, two agencies, one
commission, one corporation and one authority offering 97 different
Federal assistance programs. These 97 programs provide many
different services to help people and state and local governments
deal with recovery from a disaster. A listing of the main agencies
that provide assistance can be found in General Family Preparedness,
Insurance and Resources After a Disaster.
Emotional Recovery After a Disaster
In addition to the physical damage a disaster brings, stress and
emotional disequilibrium need to be addressed by victims. Steps you
can take to reduce the effects of a disaster include:
Be extra patient.
Keep in mind that other people may have a different viewpoint about
what should be top priority.
Realize that it will take time to restore things, both physically
and emotionally.
Try to keep your family diet as nutritious as possible.
Focus on the big picture instead of the little details. This will
give you a sense of completeness.
Talk with friends, family and clergy. A support network is
essential in a disaster situation.
Watch for the tendency to resort to bad habits when you are under
stress.
If you are dealing with disaster victims, realize that it's natural
for them to express disbelief, sadness, anger, anxiety and
depression. Also realize that these emotions and moods can change
unexpectedly.
Notes:
Helping Children Cope After a Disaster
Children may require special attention after experiencing a
disaster. Four common fears children have are death, darkness,
animals and abandonment. In a disaster children may experience any
or all of these. You should encourage children to talk about what
they are feeling and to express this through play, drawing or
painting.
A child's reaction to a disaster may vary depending on age, maturity
and previous experience. In all cases it is important to acknowledge
what happened and take time to talk with children about their fears.
Some behaviors you may find children exhibiting after a disaster
include:
Being upset at the loss of a favorite toy, blanket, teddy bear, etc.
Hitting, throwing or kicking to show their anger and frustration.
Fear of the disaster coming again.
Fear of being left alone or sleeping alone. They may want to sleep
with another person.
Behaving as they did when they were younger, including wetting
the bed, sucking their thumb, wanting to be held, etc.
Exhibiting symptoms of illness such as nausea, fever, headaches,
not wanting to eat, etc.
Becoming quiet and withdrawn. Becoming easily upset.
Feeling that they caused the disaster in some way.
Feeling neglected by parents who are busy cleaning up or rebuilding.
Refusing to go to school or to be out of the parent's sight.
Parents and other adults can help children come to terms with their
feelings in several ways.
Let children know you love them and they can count on you.
Reassure them that they are not responsible for what occurred.
Talk with your children about your own feelings.
Give simple, accurate answers to children's questions.
Hold them. Close contact assures children you are there for
them and will not abandon them.
Let children grieve for a lost toy or blanket that was special
to them. It will help them cope with their feelings.
Provide play experiences to relieve stress.
Repeat assurances and information as often as you need to; do not
stop responding.
Spend extra time putting children to bed at night.
Listen to what children say. Repeat their words to clarify what
they are feeling. If additional help is needed for adults or
children, contact a community resource such as a counseling
center, minister or mental health agency.
Notes:
Food Safety
Food safety precautions can make an important difference after a
disaster occurs. Food can become contaminated as a result of fire,
flood and wind related exposure. It also may spoil or become unsafe
after a power outage.
Precautions Against Power Outages
If your area comes under an advisory that may lead to prolonged power
outages (hurricanes, prolonged flooding, etc.) take these steps to
help keep your food safe:
Turn your refrigerator and freezer to the coldest setting. This
will help the food stay frozen. Purchase a 50-pound block of dry ice.
This will keep food in a full 18 cubic foot freezer safe for 2
days. Wrap it in brown paper for longer storage. Separate it
from direct food contact with a piece of cardboard.
Fill partially filled freezers with crumpled newspaper to reduce
air currents which will dissipate dry ice.
After a Power Outage
If you should lose power, the emergency food supplies in your family
disaster supply kit will be safe. Food in the refrigerator and
freezer may be in trouble.
Generally, food in a refrigerator will be safe if the power is not
out longer than a few hours and the temperature has been at 40øF or below.
Food in a full, free-standing freezer should be safe for about 2 days if the
temperature was at 0øF or below. Food in a half-full freezer should be safe
for about 1 day if the temperature was at 0øF or below. To prolong the life
of your food the following measures should be taken.
- Group meat and poultry to one side, or on a tray, so their juices won't
contaminate other foods if they begin to thaw.
- Be wary of using meat, poultry and foods containing milk, cream, sour
cream or soft cheese.
- Don't rely on odor or appearance of food. If perishable food has been
at room temperature for more than 2 hours, discard it.
In emergency conditions, the following foods should keep at room
temperature (above 40øF) a few days. Discard anything that turns moldy or has an
unusual odor or look.
Butter, margarine
Fresh fruits and vegetables
Dried fruits and coconut
Opened jars of salad dressing, peanut
butter, jelly, relish, taco sauce, barbecue sauce, mustard,
catsup, olives
Hard and processed cheeses
Fruit juices
Fresh herbs and spices
Flour and nuts
Fruit pies
Bread, rolls, cakes and muffins Discard the following foods if kept
for more than 2 hours above 40øF.
Raw or cooked meat, poultry and
seafood
Milk, cream, yogurt, soft cheese
Cooked pasta, pasta salads
Custard, chiffon or cheese pies
Fresh eggs, egg substitutes
Meat topped pizzas, lunchmeats
Casseroles, stews or soups
Mayonnaise and tartar sauce
Refrigerator and cookie doughs
Cream filled pastries
Refreeze thawed foods that still contain ice crystals or feel cold.
Tornado and Wind Related Contamination
If you live in an area that has sustained tornado or wind damage,
take the following measures.
Drink only approved or chlorinated
water.
Consider all water from wells, cisterns
and other delivery systems in the disaster area unsafe until
tested. Check foods and discard any containing
particles of glass or slivers of other debris.
Discard canned foods with broken
seams.
Notes:
Flooded Food Recovery
Flood waters may carry contaminants such as silt, raw sewage or
chemical waste. Disease bacteria in the water also can contaminate
any food it touches. If you have experienced flood conditions,
follow these guidelines:
Save undamaged commercially canned
foods (except as noted later). Do not use home-canned foods
that have
been covered with flood water. Commercial glass jars of food
are safe if
the containers are sanitized (except as noted later). Remove
the labels from jars and cans and
mark the contents on can or jar lid with indelible ink. Paper
can harbor dangerous bacteria. To sanitize jars, cans, dishes
and glassware, wash in a strong detergent solution with a scrub
brush. After washing, immerse them in a solution of 2 teaspoons
chlorine bleach per gallon of room temperature water. Air dry before
using. If needed, clean empty glass also may be sanitized by boiling
in water for 10 minutes. To sanitize metal pans and utensils, boil
in water for 10 minutes. Discard wooden and plastic utensils, baby
nipples, pacifiers and any other porous nonfood items that are used
with food. Discard the following foods:
Meat, poultry, fish and eggs
Fresh produce
Preserves sealed with paraffin
Unopened jars with waxed cardboard
seals such as mayonnaise and salad dressing
All foods in cardboard boxes, paper, foil,
cellophane or cloth
Spices, seasonings and extracts
Home-canned foods
Opened containers and packages
Flour, grain, sugar, coffee and other
staples in canisters
Dented, leaking, bulging or rusted cans
Notes: Food Safety After a Fire
Food that has been exposed to fire can be affected by three factors:
the heat of the fire smoke fumes the chemicals used to fight the
fire
Food in cans or jars that have been close to the heat of the fire may
appear to be unharmed, but the heat from the fire can activate food
spoilage bacteria, leaving them inedible.
Burning materials may release toxic fumes that contaminate food.
Discard any type of food stored in permeable packaging such as
cardboard or plastic wrap. Discard raw food outside the
refrigerator. Food in refrigerators and freezers also may be
contaminated. The seal on these appliances is not completely
airtight. Discard any food with an off-flavor or smell. The
chemicals used to fight fires contain toxic material that can
contaminate food and cookware. Throw away foods exposed to the
chemicals. Chemicals cannot be washed off the food. This includes
foods stored at room temperature, as well as foods stored in
permeable containers such as cardboard and screw-topped jars and
bottles.
Sanitize canned goods and cookware in the same method as recommended
for flooded foods.
Notes: Insurance and Resources After a Disaster
Most homeowner policies offer coverage for losses due to natural
disasters except flooding. If you are unsure what your policy
covers, check it before a disaster happens. Contact your agent for
clarification if you are still unsure. In general most insurance
policies cover:
Your house, rental units that are part of the building and any
attachments to the building,
such as the garage.
Structures on the grounds that are not attached to the house, such
as a pool, gazebo, tool
shed, etc. This also includes the lawn, trees and shrubs on the
property.
Vacant land you own or rent, with the exception of farmland.
Cemetery plots or burial vaults you may own.
Personal possessions, including those of members of your household
and guests, and
contents of the house. This does not include the possessions of
tenants in your home.
Any items that have been loaned to you, or given for safe keeping.
Living expense if your home is unlivable due to damage.
Rental payments, if you rent one part of your house but it is
unlivable due to damage.
Responsibility for unauthorized use of your credit cards, forged
checks or counterfeit
currency accepted in good faith.
Settlement, medical expenses and court costs brought against you
for bodily injury of
others or damage to the property of others.
Most homeowner policies DO NOT cover loss due to flooding. You
should check to see if your community participates in the National
Flood Insurance Program.
(continued on next page)
If you need financial assistance, programs are available. Programs
include:
The American Red Cross...offers emergency assistance for
groceries, new clothes,
medical needs and immediate building repairs.
Farmers Home Administration(FmHA)...offers agricultural loans only
when other
credit is not available. Qualifying farmers can get short-,
medium- or long-term loans with moderate interest.
Federal Crop Insurance Corporation (FCIC)...Farmers can insure
crops for 50, 65 or
75 percent of yield. Unavoidable losses due to any adverse
weather conditions including drought, excessive moisture, hail,
wind, hurricanes, tornadoes and lightning are covered.
Unavoidable losses due to insect infestations, plant diseases,
floods, fires and earthquakes also are covered. You must have
this insurance prior to the disaster.
Small Business Administration (SBA)...offers medium- and long-term
loans for
rebuilding non-farm homes and small businesses with moderate
interest rates.
Commercial and federal land banks offer loans for home repair and
improvement, land,
equipment and livestock. Insurance companies offer long-term
loans at relatively high interest for the same things.
Assistance also may be available through a variety of state or
local agencies and volunteer groups. Listen to your battery
operated radio after a disaster for information on disaster
relief services and locations.
Non-financial resources also are available to many disaster victims.
Technical assistance is available from:
The Agricultural Stabilization and Conservation Service
(ASCS)...for information on
livestock and wildlife feeding, production and conservation
practices.
The Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS)...offers
technical assistance
on animal and plant pests and diseases.
Extension Service-USDA...offers information, educational material
and advice on
cleanup.
The Food Safety Inspection Service (FSIS)...can be reached toll
free at (800) 535-4555 for questions on the safe handling of meat
and poultry.
Notes: Special Post-Disaster Considerations
Restoring Flooded Water Systems
1. Do not start submerged electric motors
until they have been cleaned, dried and checked for safety.
Disconnect the motor. An ejector
or jet pump motor may be a separate unit mounted on the pump, or
the end bell of the motor may be part of the pump. The separate
motor unit can be disconnected and serviced easily. With the
second type, remove the pump and motor as a unit. It is not
necessary to remove the drop pipes.
Take the motor to an electrical
repair shop. In the shop, the motor should be checked for any
short circuits or grounding caused by moisture. If the motor
was submerged in mud and water, it should be thoroughly
cleaned. Windings should be dried in a drying oven. The
bearings should be lubricated before you use the motor again.
Clean and dry electrical controls
and pressure switches. Check all wiring for short circuits.
2. Pumps usually are damaged by sediment
deposited in the bearings. Clean pumps. Check valves for silt
and sand. Remove all dirt and water from the gears in the gear
box and replace the lubricant with fresh oil.
Submersible pumps. The bearings
on water-lubricated pumps will not be damaged by flood waters,
since these bearings
are constantly submerged in water.
As soon as possible, flush clean water down the casing to
remove sediment and silt. Then disinfect the well.
Centrifugal pumps. Many
centrifugal pumps contain two sets of oil-lubricated bearings
along the drive shaft between the motor and the pump. If the
pump has been flooded, dismantle the container bracket and
remove the bearings.
Clean the bearings, or install new
bearings if the old ones are worn out.
Close-coupled centrifugal pumps
contain no bearings, so there is little chance of flood damage
except to the electric motor.
3. Injector-type pumps. These pumps
usually contain watertight packing at the ground surface, with
sealed impellers. Flood waters probably will not damage this
type of pump.
4. The storage tank and piping should be
all right unless muddy water was pumped through it. If tank is
contaminated, disinfect the entire system with a strong chlorine
solution. Use 1 quart household laundry bleach or check with
local health department for recommended solution strength.
Open all faucets while the system is
being filled. Do not close the spigot until a definite smell of
chlorine is evident. Do not use the system for
(continued next page) Restoring Flooded Water
Systems
(continued)
24 hours. Then start the pump and run
water from all faucets until the chlorine odor is gone.
5. Wells probably will not be damaged
structurally from floods, but they may be contaminated. Have
your well tested by health officials before you use the water.
6. If the well is located in a low spot, it
may be contaminated with silt from floodwaters draining into
it. If so, the well and entire water system should be
disinfected. To disinfect the well system:
Pump the well until water is clear.
Pour a solution of 1 quart liquid
laundry bleach (Clorox , Purex , Hilex or a similar
hypochlorite solution) mixed in 3 gallons of water into the well
casing. Leave it there at least 4 hours, or preferably
overnight.
Pump the chlorinated water into the
piping system, and leave it there for at least 2 hours or even
overnight.
The next day, pump and flush out
the system until the taste and odor of chlorine are no longer
apparent. Two days after you have disinfected the water system
take a sample of water according to recommended procedures and
have it tested for purity. Boil or treat all drinking water
until a water test indicates that water is safe for all
purposes. 7. Do not drink water from a flooded
cistern until you disinfect the cistern and the entire piping
system. To disinfect the cistern:
Use an auxiliary pump to remove
the water and empty the cistern. Do not pump water through
the pipeline distribution system.
Wash down the walls and ceiling
with clean water, and pump out the dirty water with an
auxiliary pump.
Check the cistern walls, ceiling and
floor for cracks where groundwater could come in.
Disinfect the interior with a
solution of 1 quart laundry bleach in 3 gallons of water.
Be sure the bleach contains no soap. Apply the chlorine
solution with a sprayer or scrub with a stiff broom.
Swab or pump out the disinfecting
solution that collects in the bottom of the cistern.
Leave the chlorine solution in the
pipes for at least 2 hours (overnight if possible) before
you drain them.
Fill the cistern with water for use.
This water will have a chlorine taste for awhile, but it
will be safe for all purposes.
8. Regenerate water softeners before you
use them. Use clean chlorinated water to backwash the
filterbed.
Disinfecting Wells
Disinfect flooded wells before they are used as a source of drinking
water. To disinfect a well:
1. Scrub the pumproom and wash all
equipment, including piping, pump and pressure tank.
2. Remove the well seal at the top of the
casing. Pour a solution of 1 quart laundry bleach and 3 gallons
of water into the top of the well. Pour the solution so it
washes down the inside of the casing and the outside of the drop
pipes. In some wells you will need
only to remove a plug from the seal to pour the solution into
the well.
3. Leave the solution in the well about 4
hours. Then pump it into the pressure tank and distribution
system.
4. Draw the chlorinated water into all
piping by opening each faucet until the odor of chlorine is
apparent. Leave the chlorine in the piping at least 2 hours.
Then run the water until the taste and odor are no longer
objectionable.
Disposing of Animal Carcasses
1. Prompt and sanitary disposal of animal
carcasses is necessary to protect the living animals in an area
from disease.
2. Search all pastures for dead animals as
soon as possible. Carcasses may have some commercial value, so
send them to a rendering plant if possible.
3. If rendering is impractical, dispose of
the dead animals on the premises. Use the following procedure:
Immediately after finding a carcass,
cover it with crude oil or kerosene to keep away dogs, buzzards
and vermin. Fat swine are the only animal
carcasses that will burn satisfactorily. Used railroad ties can
be used as starters.
Bury other carcasses. Use power
equipment if it is available. Choose a site where subsurface
drainage will not reach water supplies.
Bury the carcasses at least 3 to 4
feet deep so predatory animals won't be able to reach them. If
quicklime is available, cover carcasses with it before filling.
Quicklime will hasten decomposition.
Notes: Additional Resources
For further information on disaster preparedness or recovery, the
following resources are suggested:
Small Business Administration 1-800-827-5722
Contact your local American Red Cross chapter or write to FEMA, P.O.
Box 70274, Washington, D.C. 20024 for the following information:
Your Family Disaster Supplies Kit. Federal Emergency Management
Agency brochure
L-189 and American Red Cross brochure 4463, March 1992.
Your Family Disaster Plan. Federal Emergency Management Agency
brochure L-191
and American Red Cross brochure 4466, September 1991.
Emergency Preparedness Checklist. Federal Emergency Management
Agency and
American Red Cross brochure 44471, November 1991.
Helping Children Cope with Disaster. Federal Emergency Management
Agency and
American Red Cross brochure 4499, September 1992.
Preparing for Emergencies: A Checklist for People with Mobility
Problems. Federal
Emergency Management Agency brochure L-154(M) and American Red
Cross brochure 4497, October 1992.
The following are available from the Federal Emergency Management
Agency:
Preparedness for People with Disabilities. Earthquake Hazard
Reduction Series 9,
FEMA 75.
Are You Ready? H-34, Item #8-0908.
Notes: Drought
Drought . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Water Conservation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Water Conservation at Home . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Reading a Water Meter To Measure Leaks . . . . . . 34
Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead . . . . . . . . . 34
Installing Shower Flow Restrictors . . . . . . . . 34
Installing Toilet Dams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Water Saving Steps When Remodeling . . . . . . . . 36
Making Repairs To Toilets To Stop Water Loss . . . 36
Repairing Faucet Leaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Adding New Landscape Or Redesigning The Yard . . . 39
Landscape Water Conservation . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Watering Lawns and Plants During a Drought . . . . 44
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers 45
Developing a Crop Water Management Plan . . . . . .45
Crop Water Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies 46
Developing and Improving Vegetative Cover . . . . .48
Maintaining Vegetative Cover. . . . . . . . . . . .49
Managing Salinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Drought
Water Conservation
Water conservation is defined as the efficient use of water so that
unnecessary or wasteful uses are eliminated. In many areas, more
groundwater is drawn out of the aquifers each year than is recharged
through rainfall and stream flow. As a result, groundwater levels
have dropped dramatically. Demand for water from a state's streams
and reservoirs may rapidly approach the available long-term supply.
Across many states, many communities are regularly required to limit
water use at some time during the year.
While some additional water supplies can be developed by constructing
new reservoirs, in many locations the demand for water will still
equal or exceed the available long-term supply. For these towns and
cities, water conservation can make the difference between adequate
supplies and shortages. Importantly, the way water is used and, in
some instances, wasted must be rethought.
This section explains easy ways that water can be conserved and money
can be saved at the same time. Useful information is also provided
on how to measure home water use, how simple repairs can be made, and
how water-saving devices are installed. In addition to the measures
found in this section, also refer to the General Family Preparedness
section found at the beginning of this handbook.
Water Conservation at Home
There are dozens of ways to conserve water and save money around the
home. As a starting point, seven of the easiest ways to reduce water
use at home are listed below. These should be part of your everyday
routine, not just precautionary measures in times of drought.
1. Install a water-saving showerhead.
An effective water-saving
showerhead should have a flow rate of 3 gallons or less a
minute. The standard showerhead uses 5 to 10 gallons a minute.
Therefore, a showerhead using only 2« gallons a minute can save as
much as 75 gallons of water during a normal 10-minute shower.
To determine whether a low-flow
showerhead needs to be installed, check the flow rate of the
current showerhead by using the water meter or by putting a
gallon container under the showerhead while the water is on and
measuring the time it takes to fill the container at the usual
shower setting. If it fills in less than 20 seconds, the flow
is greater than 3 gallons per minute.
Low-flow showerheads can be
purchased at most department, hardware and plumbing stores.
Models costing from under $3 are
available. A showerhead can usually be installed in 10
minutes.
2. Place displacement devices in the
toilet.
Three types of displacement devices can
be used in toilets, but they should
not be used in newer, low-water
use toilets which use less than 3« gallons per flush.
To determine the capacity of the
toilet tank, either turn off the water supply valve to the
toilet (usually located on the pipe behind the toilet) or hold
the float ball up so that the tank does not refill, and flush
the toilet. Measure the capacity of the tank by filling it to
the normal level with a gallon container.
Toilet dams can be installed in
toilet tanks to reduce the amount of water used, typically
saving « to 2 gallons per flush. Toilet dams are available from many
utilities or from most plumbing supply stores from under $5 per pair.
A plastic bottle filled with water
and weighted down with a few stones can accomplish the same
purpose as dams. It is important to place the bottle in the
toilet tank where it will not interfere with the flushing
mechanism. A plastic bottle in the tank will save « to 1 gallon per flush.
A toilet bag which is available free
of charge from many utilities, can also be used in place of
dams. A displacement bag in the tank will save « to 1 gallon per flush.
Bricks should not be used in the
tank because small pieces can break off and permanently damage
the plumbing system.
(continued next page) Water Conservation At Home
(continued)
3. Install faucet aerators.
The standard faucet flow rate is 5
gallons a minute. A low-flow aerator can reduce this flow to
ap- proximately 2« gallons a minute while still providing adequate
water for washing and rinsing. Installing aerators on the kitchen
sink and lavatory faucets will save hot water and cut water use by as
much as 60 gallons a month for a typical family of four.
Most aerators have either internal
or external threads. Before purchasing aerators, the location
of the threads and the diameter of each spout should be
determined.
If the faucet already has a standard
aerator (not a low-flow type), it can be removed and taken to
the store to ensure that the correct low-flow size is
purchased. Aerators are available for less than a dollar from
most stores that sell plumbing fixtures.
If the kitchen has a portable
dishwasher that must be connected to the faucet, do not install
a low-flow aerator because the reduced flow may affect the
performance of the dishwasher and result in dishes that are not
properly cleaned.
4. Change your water use patterns.
The washing machine and dish-
washer should only be used when fully loaded. This practice can
save at least two loads or approximately 60 gallons each week.
5. Examine personal water use habits.
Changing tooth brushing habits can
save as much as 14 gallons of water a day. Instead of allowing
the tap water to run while brushing, use a cup, and run the tap
just to rinse the toothbrush.
The same method can be used to
conserve additional water when shaving, washing hands or taking
a shower.
Use a pan when washing vegetables
or rinsing dishes in the kitchen instead of running water
constantly.
6. Find water leaks.
According to water utilities, leaks can
easily account for 10 percent of a water bill and waste both
water and energy if the source is a hot water tap.
Toilet Leaks. When a toilet leaks,
water escapes from the tank into the bowl. Toilets are
notorious for hidden or silent leaks, because leaks are seldom
noticed unless the toilet "runs" after each flush (which can
waste 4 to 5 gallons a minute).
To determine if the toilet is leaking, look
first at the toilet bowl after the tank has stopped filling. If
water is still running into the bowl or if water can be heard
running, the toilet is leaking.
Often the toilet may have a "silent leak."
To test for a silent leak, mix a few drops of food coloring or
place a
(continued next page) Water Conservation At Home
(continued)
dye capsule or tablet (available from
many utilities and hardware stores) into the water in the toilet
tank after the water has stopped filling and the tank is full.
Do Not flush the toilet. Wait for about 10 minutes, and if the
dye or food coloring appears in the toilet bowl, the toilet has
a silent leak.
Leaks of this type usually are caused by
a defective flush valve (flapper) ball or a corroded or scaled
valve seat. Replacement balls and valves, which can be
installed in less than 30 minutes, are available from most
hardware and plumbing stores for under $3.
Faucet Leaks. Faucet leaks are
obvious. However, periodically check seldom used taps in the
basement or outside the house. The cause of faucet leaks is
frequently a worn washer that can be replaced with two or three
hand tools. Replacement washers can be purchased from most
hardware and variety stores and cost only a few cents.
7. Use efficient outside watering
practices.
Plant native vegetation. Once
established, which usually takes two years, these plants require
less frequent watering. Water grass only when needed. If
grass springs up after being walked on, it does not need
watering.
Soak grass long enough for water
to reach the roots. Water slowly and deeply.
Water during the cool, early
morning hours to minimize water loss by evaporation and
discourage disease. Do not water on windy days.
Use sprinklers that produce
droplets instead of mist and that have a low trajectory. This
type of sprinkler will lose less water by evaporation and be
less affected by the wind.
Use drip irrigation systems for
shrubs, flowerbeds and other frequently watered areas.
During the summer, keep the grass
about 2 to 3 inches high. This height shades the root system
and holds soil moisture better than does a closely clipped
lawn.
Do not water streets and sidewalks.
Adjust the hose or sprinkler until it waters just the grass or
shrubs. For flowerbeds, shrubs and trees, use drip or soaker
systems.
Notes:
Reading a Water Meter To Measure Leaks
If your house has a water meter, the entire plumbing system can be
checked for an undetected leak in five easy steps:
1. Find the water meter. (It may be
outdoors or hidden in a dark corner of the basement.)
2. Turn off all running water and
water-using appliances, and do not flush the toilet.
3. Read the dial (or dials) and record the
reading. 4. After 15 to 20 minutes, re-check the
meter.
5. If no water has been turned on or used
and the reading has changed, a leak is occurring. The rate
(gallons per minute) of the leak can be determined by dividing
the number of gallons by the elapsed time.
6. If the leak cannot be found and fixed, a
plumber should be called. Before calling, check all toilets for
silent leaks.
Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead
To Conserve Water
1. In some cases, a newly purchased low-flow showerhead may not fit
on the
existing pipe. This is often the case when the neck ends in a
ball joint.
Most necks can be unscrewed and
replaced, or an adaptor can be used. Adapters or replacement
necks are readily available in plumbing and most hardware
stores. 2. When installing the new showerhead,
teflon tape or pipe joint compound could be applied to the
exposed threads of the new neck so that the joint will be sealed
and provide a leakproof connection.
3. If the shower neck has been on for a few
years and the neck joint is too stiff to unscrew with moderate
pressure, consider having a plumber replace it.
Installing Shower Flow Restrictors
to Conserve Water
Restricting devices fit into the space
between the showerhead and the shower neck. These devices range
from a simple washer with a small hole in it to small
chrome-plated pressure compensating fittings. While restrictors
reduce water flow,
low-flow showerheads produce a flow that is more satisfying to
most individuals.
Notes:
Installing Toilet Dams, Toilet Bags and
Plastic Bottles to Conserve Water
Many of the toilets in homes today use from 5 to 7 gallons per
flush. Several effective retrofit devices are available that can
reduce the volume of water used with each flush by 2 to 3 gallons.
While these devices can be used in some of the low-flush toilets on
the market today that use from 3 to 4 gallons per flush, they
generally perform better when used in the older 5- to 7-gallon per
flush models.
The height of water in the toilet tank (not just the volume) causes
the bowl to flush, so the purpose of displacement devices is to
reduce the volume of water used in each flush without affecting water
height in the tank. The following three types of devices have proven
to be effective.
1. Toilet Dams:
To install a dam, flex or bend the
dam and insert it into the tank.
The dam should fit tightly against
the tank sides and bottom and should curve outward away from the
plumbing fixtures in the tank. Most tanks work best when a
single dam is used. 2. Toilet Bags:
Fill the bag with water, securely
seal the top of the bag with the bag clamp and hang the bag in
the tank by using the bag clip and hanger that are provided.
Make sure the bag is located in the
tank so it does not interfere with the operation of the toilet
tank.
3. Plastic Bottles:
Fill a plastic bottle with water and
weight down with a few stones, and place in the most open
portion of the tank. This will save as much water as is
displaced by the bottle.
Make sure the bottle does not
interfere with the operation of the moving parts of the tank.
Check all such devices periodically to ensure that they remain in
place.
Notes:
Water Saving Steps When Remodeling or
Replacing Fixtures and Appliances
1. Hot Water Pipes.
Where possible, insulate hot water pipes
from the hot water heater to fixtures and appliances. This will
reduce the time between turning the water on and the time hot
water comes out of the faucet and reaches a constant
temperature.
2. New or Replacement Fixtures and
Appliances.
Install low-water use fixtures when
remodeling or replacing fixtures.
Install toilets that use 3« gallons or
less per flush. Install low-flow showerheads that
flow at 3 gallons or less per minute.
Install water-saving dishwashing
and clothes-washing machines. Be sure to check the water
efficiency of appliances when shopping for replacement
appliances.
3. Pools and Hot Tubs.
Run the filter backwash onto the
lawn rather than down the sewer.
Purchase covers for hot tubs and
pool to reduce evaporation losses.
Making Repairs To Toilets To Stop Water Loss
Some types of toilet leaks are relatively easy to fix. Other leaks
may require the services of a plumber. Several simple repair steps
that can be done without contacting a plumber are listed below.
1. If the water is too high in the toilet tank
and is spilling into the overflow tube, the float can be
adjusted by turning the adjustment screw or by very gently
bending the float arm down so that the water shuts off at a
level slightly below the top of the overflow tube.
Ideally, the water level should be set so
that it is about even with the fill line on the back of the
toilet tank.
2. A frequent problem that causes a toilet
to leak is a worn flapper ball or a flapper ball that does not
seat properly into the valve seat. If the flapper ball is worn,
it can be removed and replaced with a new
flapper ball.
When replacing a flapper ball, take care
to note how the chain is adjusted before the old ball is
removed. Also, check the valve seat for scale or corrosion and
clean if necessary. If cleaning does not work, install a
retrofit valve seat, available from most plumbing or hardware
stores.
3. If the handle needs to be jiggled to keep
the toilet from "running," the guide-wire or the handle itself
may be sticking. If the handle is sticking, adjust the nut that
secures it in the toilet tank. If that does not work, replace
the handle.
4. If none of the preceding steps solve the
problem, contact a plumber to repair the toilet.
Repairing Faucet Leaks
1. Leaky faucets, which can develop even
in new houses, are wasteful and a nuisance. With a few simple
tools, a leaky faucet can be repaired in less than an hour.
2. Most water faucets in houses today are
compression-type units in which a washer is compressed over a
pipe opening when the faucet is closed, thus closing off the
water.
All compression-type faucets may not
look alike, but all are similar in their operation and repair.
3. The exact point where a leak appears on
a faucet is a good clue to finding its cause:
A spout drip is usually caused by a
worn upper faucet washer or a corroded seat.
Leaks at the stem result from a
loose cap nut or worn cone or bonnet packing.
A cap leak, or water oozing below
the cap nut, indicates a worn bib or packing washer.
A leak at the base of the faucet
results from water seeping past a worn lower faucet washer.
4. To repair a leaky compression type
faucet, use the following steps:
Turn off the water supply at the
valve nearest the faucet. Next, open the tap to drain the
faucet.
Remove the handle screw and lift
handle off the spindle. Unscrew the cap nut. Use a
protective cover of adhesive tape or a rag to avoid marring the
finish.
Unscrew the stem with finger
pressure and lift it out.
Remove the screw from the bottom
end of the spindle. Scrape away all worn washer parts. Be
careful not to damage the rim. Install a new washer. (Take
either the old washer or the complete spindle unit with you to
purchase the correct size and shape (flat or conical)
replacement washer.) Double-check to make sure the replacement
is like the worn washer.
Check the seat (which is located
down inside the faucet) to make sure it is not pitted or rough.
If the seat is scarred or rough, use a seat-dressing kit to
grind the seat to a smooth finish.
A leak at the stem usually means
that the packing inside the cap nut needs replacing. To replace
the packing, pry out the old packing washer with a screwdriver.
If a washer is used, replace it with a new one. If there is no
washer, wrap the spindle tightly with "packing wicking." String
can be used if commercial wicking is not available.
Reassemble the faucet. Tighten the
cap nut just enough to prevent leaking. Screwing the nut down
too tightly causes rapid wear on the stem.
(continued next page) Repairing Faucet Leaks
(continued)
Turn the shutoff valves to the on
position and check the faucet for leaks.
5. A mixing faucet may look more
complicated than a single faucet, but repairs are made in much
the same way.
Actually, a mixing faucet is two
separate units with a single spout.
Mixing faucets are used on sinks,
bathtubs and laundry tubs. Repairs must be made separately on
each faucet unit. Follow the same steps listed above,
but remember to turn off the water before beginning work.
6. Every washerless and single-lever faucet
model is a little different. When repairs are required,
homeowners can purchase a repair kit for their model which
includes instructions and the parts that generally will be
worn. By replacing all the parts at once, the faucet should
function for several years without needing further repair.
Notes:
Adding New Landscape Or Redesigning The Yard
To Conserve Water
When planning to add new landscaping or to redesign existing
landscaping, the following suggestions may help you to save 50
percent or more of the water needed to maintain a traditional lawn.
1. If hiring a landscape architect or
gardener, select one who is experienced in Xeriscape, the
conservation of water and energy through creative landscaping.
2. Design the yard to reduce the grassed
areas to only that amount which will actually be used for
recreation and entertainment. Front and side yards are most
frequently just for show and are logical areas that can be
completely or partially converted from lawns to native grasses,
ground covers and shrubs.
3. Use native grasses, ground covers,
shrubs and trees. Many beautiful varieties of native species
can be used in landscaping and are preferable to imported
species.
The advantage of native species is that,
once they are established (usually about 2 years), they do not
need to be watered as frequently (about to « as often), and they
can survive a dry period without any watering.
4. When installing an irrigation system for
lawn, shrubs and trees, sprinkler heads for the lawn should be
low-angle spray heads that sprinkle the grass without spraying
the water high into the air or allowing the water to drift onto
the sidewalks and streets. The heads should produce droplets of
water instead of a mist. The preferable irrigation system for
shrub beds and trees is a drip-type system. There are several
varieties, including soaker hoses, bubblers and "leaky pipe."
If a sprinkler system is installed for shrubs, an upright pipe
extension may be needed if low-angle spray heads are to be used.
This is done to spray evenly without obstructions.
Automatic controls will allow the
proper watering time and minimize waste.
Regular spacing between spray
heads will provide uniform coverage.
For more information, contact a
licensed landscape irrigator or a reputable dealer.
5. Shape the soil to protect against erosion
and use conditioners to promote water penetration and
retention.
Shape the soil into earthen basins
around all shrubs.
If the original soil is rocky, shallow
or a heavy clay, improve the soil by adding 2 to 4 inches of
organic material or topsoil that is compatible with the soil
type.
6. Watering needs vary:
Plants: During summer month,
most plants will need about 1 inch of water every 5 to 7 days.
Lawns: The frequency of watering
depends on the type of grass.
(continued next page) Landscape Water
Conservation
A water conscious landscape design can reduce water use for landscape
maintenance by 50 percent or more and also reduce the amount of
maintenance required. Of equal importance, the natural beauty and
function of the landscape also can be preserved by using adapted
plant materials.
1. By using plant materials adapted to
specific areas, water needs for landscape maintenance can be
reduced by more than 50 percent.
Water conscious landscaping
involves more than just using adapted plant materials it
includes the use of other conservation techniques and
practices.
Water saving practices include the
use of low pressure drip or trickle irrigation systems for
watering trees, shrubs, gardens and individual plants or beds;
the use of mulches around shrubs, beds and gardens to conserve
water; the use of bark, rock or other landscape material in
ground cover in areas difficult to water or in areas where
plants are not needed; the use of vegetative groundcovers such
as ivy, jasmine, liriope and vinca in small, isolated areas,
sloping sites that are difficult to water and in heavily shaded
sites.
2. Water conscious landscape designs
minimize intensively maintained lawn space. Manicured lawn
areas may be the focal point of the landscape, but they do not
need to cover the entire area unless the lawn is used as a
playground or sports field. Highly maintained grass areas
generally require more irrigation than any other component of
the landscape. On golf courses, for example, only the landing
areas need to be intensively maintained. Rough areas may have a
more drought tolerant grass, taller mowing heights and a
separate water system.
Large open areas of the landscape
where a grass cover is needed can be planted to low maintenance
grasses such as buffalograss, centipede grass or bahiagrass.
Native plants and wildflowers also can be allowed to develop in
these areas.
Such plantings require very little
maintenance and no supplemental water once they become
established.
3. Proper site preparation will produce a
more beautiful landscape and result in more efficient water
utilization.
Slopes, areas with shallow topsoil,
compacted soils and deep sands are difficult sites to establish
grass and are inefficient with respect to water use.
Modifying or amending the sites
before planting is more effective than waiting until problems
develop.
(continued next page) Landscape Water
Conservation
(continued)
4. As the foundation is the strength of a
building, the seedbed is the support for a turf. The seedbed
refers to the few surface inches of soil that are modified prior
to planting.
Poor soil conditions result in
continuous turf maintenance problems.
To prepare a seedbed, first remove
all debris such as large stones, wood or other trash that may
have been left after construction.
Next, the nature of the soil may
need to be altered. A sandy loam soil high in organic matter is
best for turf. If the original surface soil is a heavy clay or
a fine sand, add organic matter to improve soil structure. This
organic material can be peat, compost, decomposed gin trash,
rice hulls, bark or sawdust (preferably hardwood), leaf mold or
similar material. Thoroughly mix 1 inch of organic matter with
the top 3 to 4 inches of soil to produce a uniform seedbed.
This mixing can be done by
repeated cultivation with a garden tiller or with a tractor and
rotovator.
When adding un-decomposed
organic matter to the soil, also add 3 pounds of ammonium
nitrate or 5 pounds of ammonium sulfate per 1,000 square feet to
aid decomposition of the organic material. Most soils are
deficient in the
major nutrients required for turf. Sandy soils normally are
deficient in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and lime. In the
blackland areas, nitrogen and phosphorus may not be adequate for
good turf development. Potassium in the soil may become
deficient for turf growth when high amounts of nitrogen are used
in areas not normally deficient in potassium.
If possible, base rates and
combinations of fertilizer nutrients on the results of soil
tests. In the absence of a soil test, apply a complete
fertilizer to the surface of the seedbed. Apply a fertilizer
with a 1-2-1 (10-20-10, 6-12-6) or 1 (8-8-8) ratio at a rate to
supply 1 pound of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet of lawn.
Grade the seedbed to provide
surface drainage away from structures, walks and driveways. A
fall of 6 inches for every 40 to 50 surface feet is adequate for
drainage on sandy soils, provided no pockets or depressions
exist.
Clay or clay loam soils may require
twice that slope to provide adequate surface drainage. In some
cases, subsurface drainage systems may be needed to remove
excess water from poorly drained sites.
If a considerable part of the
landscape needs to be filled, use a loam or sandy loam soil.
Repeated wetting of the filled site will help settle the soil.
(continued next page) Landscape Water
Conservation
(continued)
The final step in seedbed prep-
aration is raking the surface to remove large clods and stones.
At the same time, fill depressions that have developed and level
high spots. Walks and driveways should be about 1 inch above
the final soil surface. The site is now ready to be seeded,
sprigged or sodded.
5. Conservation and reduced maintenance
costs are enhanced by good cultural practices. By some
estimates as much as 50 percent of the water used for landscape
maintenance is wasted through run-off and evaporation.
Proper timing and method of
application will reduce much of this water loss.
The most important water conserv-
ing practice is to water only when grasses show symptoms of
water stress.
Grasses wilt and begin to go off
color when under moisture stress. Shrubs and small trees wilt
and begin to drop their leaves under moisture stress. Ideally,
water shrubs before the first sign of moisture stress.
When water is needed, thoroughly
wet the soil 4 to 6 inches deep by applying water slowly or at
intervals to avoid run-off. One inch of water, properly
applied, will wet most soils 4 to 6 inches deep. (One inch of
water is equivalent to 62 gallons per 100 square feet.) During
summer months an inch of
water will meet most plant needs for 4 or 5 days. But wait
until the plants (or grass) show moisture stress before watering
again. Early morning dew, cooler temperatures or rain may
extend the interval between irrigations several days.
6. Mowing is the key to maintaining neat,
attractive turf areas. Low maintenance grasses such as
buffalograss require less mowing than bermudagrass or St.
Augustine. But regular mowing will improve the density and
uniformity of all turf areas.
During the growing season, weekly
mowing is ideal for lawn areas. When mowed weekly, there is
seldom a need to pick up grass clippings. The clippings break
down rapidly in the lawn and recycle plant nutrients. When
clippings are picked up, they can be composted or used for mulch
in gardens.
During hot, dry conditions raise
mowing heights to reduce water needs. Grass mowed at 2 to 3
inches maintains a deeper root system than grass mowed at 1
inch. Supplemental water needs are reduced with more effective
use of water in the soil by deep rooted grasses. Mow St.
Augustine, bluegrass and tall fescue lawns at 3 inches during
drought conditions. Do not mow bermudagrass and zoysia higher
than 2 inches.
(continued next page) Landscape Water
Conservation
(continued)
7. Thatch, the organic layer between the
soil and the green leaves, can slow water movement into the soil
and cause excess run-off.
Thatch accumulation results from
heavy fertilization, improper mowing practices, over watering
and frequent pesticide use.
Aeration and thatch removal
increase water penetration and reduce run-off. Under some
conditions wetting agents (surfactants) improve water
penetration in a heavily thatched lawn.
Water movement into the root zone
is even more difficult where compaction develops. Aeration of
compacted soils once or twice a year helps break up the
compacted layer and increases water penetration. Aeration also
reduces run-off from sloping sites. 8. In soils containing high
levels of sodium
salts, gypsum can aid water penetration. Soil test information
available through county Extension agents can reveal the
presence of high levels of sodium. Like the other three factors
affecting water use, the quality of the water used can influence
the amount of water needed to keep a turf healthy.
Where salt is a problem, it is
important to thoroughly wet the soil during each application.
Light, frequent applications of water high in salts result in an
accumulation of salts near the surface. Thorough watering helps
move the salts below the root zone of grasses.
Notes:
Watering Lawns and Plants During a Drought
1. If water is rationed during a drought,
give priority to shrubs that are more expensive and harder to
replace than grass and annual plants. 2. During a severe
drought when outside
watering is prohibited, water plants with "gray water" saved
from bathing, dishwashing and clothes washing, if this is
permitted by the city or local health department.
Notes:
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers
In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
measures.
Developing a Crop Water Management Plan
Develop a water management system before you are faced with a drought
situation.
1. Water Use Efficiency
In areas where water supply is
limited or expensive, it is economically important for farmers
to attain high water use efficiency as well as high yields.
Water use efficiency values can be calculated in several ways
and should be clearly defined to avoid misinterpretation.
Water use efficiency for a crop and
irrigation system can be expressed as crop yield (pounds) per
unit of water applied to or actually used by the crop
(acre-inches). 2. Rainfall Patterns
Average monthly rainfall data can
be misleading because large variations occur. Therefore,
percent probability that a certain rainfall amount will occur is
a better way of assessing risk.
Dryland crops should be grown
during periods of high rainfall probabilities to allow more of
the rainfall to be used for evapotranspiration.
Notes:
Crop Water Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies
Experimental results for yield and water use efficiency have varied,
but many common water management principles have emerged and are
receiving widespread application by farmers. Limited irrigation is
now being widely practiced on drought tolerant crops to take
advantage of expected rainfall.
1. Sorghum
Sorghum has good ability to adjust
to water stress. Sorghum requires 13 to 24 inches of seasonal
water use (evapotranspiration) from precipitation, stored soil
moisture and irrigation to achieve grain yields of 3,000 to
6,700 pounds per acre.
Dryland sorghum yields an average
of about 1,600 pounds per acre, although yields of up to 3,000
pounds per acre are not uncommon during high rainfall years.
Pre-plant irrigation is often not
needed and may be inefficiently applied, especially when using
conventional graded furrow irrigation systems.
The same amount of water may be
more efficiently used if applied at later stages of crop
growth.
Conservation tillage can reduce the
need for pre-plant irrigation of sorghum through improved soil
moisture storage.
Irrigations should be timed to avoid
water stress during periods of peak water use (boot, heading
and flowering stages) to achieve
reasonably good yields and maximum irrigation water use
efficiency.
Two well-timed seasonal irrigations
of 4 inches per application or the equivalent are adequate in
normal years for good yields of medium maturity hybrids. Saving
irrigation water by withholding a 4-inch irrigation reduces
sorghum grain yields by only about 10 percent during the early
6- to 8-leaf stage but by almost 50 percent if withheld at the
heading and bloom stage.
2. Corn
Corn is much more sensitive to
water stress than sorghum, wheat or cotton. Corn is planted
earlier than sorghum and typically allows more efficient use of
the May-June wet season than sorghum.
The early planting date required for
corn increases the need for pre-plant irrigation for stand
establishment. The total seasonal water use to achieve any corn
grain yield is about 13 inches.
Pre-plant irrigation is often
necessary. Drought seasons require one or two additional
irrigations.
Moisture stress caused by low soil
water availability or hot, dry conditions during the flowering
stage (which includes tasseling, silking and pollination) can
severely restrict corn yield.
(continued next page)
Crop Water Requirements and Water Use Efficiencies
(continued)
Reduced irrigation of corn has
generally resulted in significant yield decreases. Planned water
deficits into the stress range are not recommended and may be
feasible only on soils with moderate to high water storage and
during the early vegetative or grain ripening stages.
Reduced acreage, rather than
reduced irrigation, offers the best way to adjust corn
irrigation to limited water supplies.
3. Wheat
Winter wheat is a major drought-tolerant crop that grows vegeta-
tively during the normal dry period from fall to early spring
and develops grain during a period of increasing spring
rainfall. Wheat is normally planted around October 1 and
requires available soil moisture from irrigation or
precipitation for germination and early growth.
Wheat also should receive one late
fall irrigation followed by two to three spring irrigations for
high grain yields. One additional early irrigation (together
with additional applied fertilizer) is usually needed for early
planted wheat that is grazed and also managed for grain
production.
The highest wheat yield response to
irrigation usually occurs during jointing and boot stages. These
stages also coincide with a period of relatively low probability
of rainfall.
The least efficient irrigation is
during grain filling, which
normally is associated with
increased rainfall.
4. Cotton
Cotton is a drought-tolerant,
long-season crop that lends itself to limited irrigation despite
a somewhat complicated pattern of water use, deficits and
application.
Early fruit set is important in cotton
production. However, the production, placement and retention of
fruiting sites are sensitive to soil water availability.
Under dryland conditions, expected
lint yields are in the range of 250 to 300 pounds per acre.
Cotton requires more than 13 inches of seasonal water use to
produce appreciable lint yields.
High levels of water application can
decrease lint yield by causing excessive vegetative development
and fall immaturity.
A pre-plant irrigation of 4 inches is
usually advantageous, especially if spring rainfall is not
adequate, but heavier pre-plant irrigations are not warranted.
Cotton has the ability to overcome
moisture stress at most growth stages if water becomes available
and low temperatures do not limit growth.
The most critical period for
irrigation is early to mid-bloom. If water is available, a
second irrigation should be applied at peak to late bloom.
Developing and Improving Vegetative Cover
1. Good cover (standing vegetation and
mulch) lessens the impact of rain that dislodges soil particles,
and thus reduces the amount of sediment in surface run-off.
Good cover also slows the movement of run-off so that more water
soaks into the soil and more sediment is deposited on the
grazing land rather than being carried into streams or ponds.
Vegetative cover also entraps manure and prevents pollution of
streams with animal waste.
2. Best management practices for
preventing nonpoint source pollution from grazing lands include
locating animal holding pens and feeding areas away from streams
and other hydrologically sensitive areas, and establishing and
maintaining good vegetative cover.
3. The amount and type of vegetation
present significantly influence the rate of infiltration of
water. Standing vegetation and a mulch or litter
layer increase infiltration. Organic matter in the surface soil
improves soil aggregation, making it easier for water to move
through the soil.
4. Pores in the soil created by plant roots
increase the rate at which water can enter the soil by providing
pathways for water movement. Long-lived, perennial bunchgrasses
have deeper root systems than sodgrasses and allow water to move
deeper.
5. The height of grass also affects water
movement. Water moves more rapidly across closely grazed grass
than grasses left with several inches of stubble.
6. If the watershed has been severely
overgrazed, the vegetative cover will need to be improved by
controlling undesirable plants such as broadleaf weeds and
shrubs and/or seeding desirable plants.
Notes:
Maintaining Vegetative Cover
1. If at least 10 to 15 percent of the
desirable vegetation is present, the most practical and
economical way to maintain a desirable vegetative cover is
through proper grazing management.
The key to proper grazing
management is to balance the number of grazing animals with the
forage produced. The proper balance will leave a sufficient
amount of plant residue to maintain stored food reserves, plant
vigor, a healthy root system and seed production of the desired
plants.
It also allows seedlings to become
established.
2. For planning purposes, an appropriate
long-term stocking rate may be determined based on the "take
half and leave half" rule of thumb. However, a more realistic
approach is to manage the grazing stocking rate so that a given
amount of residue is left prior to resumption of growth in the
spring.
The amount of residue required will
vary according to the area of the state and the vegetation
types. For example, 300 pounds of plant residue may be adequate
for a semi-arid area with short-grass vegetation, while 1,200
pounds of residue may be required in a more humid area with
tall-grass vegetation.
3. It also is important to properly distribute
animals over the grazing land. Poor distribution may result in
extreme overgrazing of one area and
little use of another in the same unit. Often these overgrazed
areas are located near water, thus increasing the potential for
pollution.
Practices which contribute to proper
grazing distribution include the development and strategic
placement of water sources, construction of fences, strategic
location of salt and feeding sites, building of trails,
fertilization, prescribed burning and spot seeding.
4. Plants benefit from periods of no
grazing. Deferment from grazing is particularly useful on areas
where vegetation needs to be improved.
5. Planned grazing systems divide an area
into two or more grazing units to allow periods of grazing and
rest from grazing in a sequence determined by management
objectives, physiological needs of the plants and the design of
the system.
Grazing systems may include as
few as 2 or as many as 30 or more grazing units.
Some temporary soil compaction
may occur with systems that concentrate animals in a small area
for short periods of time. However, if the period is short, the
soil will recover rapidly from the compaction. A planned
grazing system makes more effective use of forage and, combined
with the proper stocking rate, protects desirable range plants
and water quality.
Notes:
Managing Salinity
Salinity problems normally occur in arid or semi-arid climatic
regions. Salinity is a major nonpoint source pollutant in the west
as irrigation return flows can carry dissolved salts into waterways.
In humid climates, soluble salts are generally leached downward
through the soil profile where they cannot cause problems.
In general, accumulation of salt results from water evaporation at
the soil surface. This condition can render land vegetatively
nonproductive, and may lead to nonpoint source pollution through
erosion and sedimentation. Further, the salt concentration may run
off during a storm and affect adjacent lands. These problems
normally occur where either surface seep areas appear or where a high
water table exists in the soil profile.
Sometimes rainfall moves through the ground to the water table or to
a barrier above the water table. Here it accumulates and moves
laterally, often parallel with the land slope, toward an outlet or
low point in the landscape. It then forms a wet weather or saline
seep. During the summer or periods of low rainfall, such seepage
spots may completely dry out. Only detailed analyses of borings,
soils and surveys can establish the source and amount of groundwater
contributing to seep areas.
1. Irrigated land in arid areas sometimes
must be drained to prevent or reduce salinity problems.
Topographic surveys and subsurface investigations should be made
to obtain information on the soils, geology and water table
elevations. These data are the basis for determining the extent
of the problem and for setting design parameters. 2. Plant
nutrients and pesticides should be
applied in such a manner as to limit the potential for
contamination of surface and groundwater supplies by outflow
from drainage systems.
3. One alternative treatment is to establish
permanent salt tolerant species such as bermudagrass, aikali
sacaton, gramas and kleingrass. Salt tolerant species will
allow a vegetative cover where bare ground would otherwise lead
to water quality problems.
4. Cropping with salt tolerant, seasonal
species such as cotton or small grains assists in addressing the
problem of saline soils. Planting high water use crops such as
alfalfa, four-wing saltbush or trees above a seep area helps
control the amount of moisture that accumulates.
5. Organic or inorganic additives to the soil
surface will increase water infiltration. This will allow water
to force dissolved salts below the root zones and prevent
further concentration of salts on the soil surface.
Organic amendments include cotton
burs and gin "trash" that may be obtained from cotton processing
facilities.
Inorganic agents to increase soil
tilth include gypsum or calcium sulfate.
(continued next page)
Managing Salinity
(continued)
6. Land alterations are sometimes used to
alleviate salinity problems. Such constructed systems have a
place in salinity control, but use caution when implementing
them. In some cases, altering the land surface by smoothing or
grading may eliminate the effects of the problem by confining
the seep area or providing natural surface drainage.
Practices such as closed-end terraces or
basin terraces which impound water can be used on areas with
minimal seepage, but should be scrutinized where they might
contribute to problems associated with saline seeps. When seeps
threaten downstream water quality, installing a fresh water
interceptor drain above the seep may be an alternative
treatment.
7. Drainage may be used in severe cases of
salinity. The location of a suitable outlet and the quality of
discharge and receiving waters is crucial in considering either
a surface or subsurface drain. Surface drainage can be
accomplished by several methods, depending on the conditions at
the site.
A surface drainage system may be
the least expensive alternative, but potential maintenance
problems and obstructions to farming operations should be
considered. Maintaining water quality of any discharge waters
is of utmost importance. Most subsurface drainage uses
corrugated plastic tubing installed with a synthetic filter
envelope. Again, as with any other drainage system, an adequate
outlet is imperative, especially considering the discharge water
quality in comparison to receiving waters.
8. Irrigation water management is
important on saline soils. Salt accumulates in soils because of
salts in irrigation water or the presence of a high water
table. To prevent harmful accumulation of salts in soils
irrigated with saline water, an additional quantity of water,
above that required for the crop, must be passed through the
root zone to leach salt from the soil.
A high water table contributes to salt
accumulation because capillary action causes water and soluble
salts to rise to the soil surface. There the water evaporates,
leaving behind salt deposits. Enough water must be applied
periodically to leach out accumulated salts without excessive
waste of water. If a seep area could be made worse by applying
liquid agricultural waste, proper management must be used,
including nutrient management.
Earthquakes
Earthquakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
How Earthquakes are Measured . . . . . . . . . 52 Preparing for
an Earthquake. . . . . . . . . . 53 During an Earthquake . . . .
. . . . . . . . . 54 Responses Inside Buildings During an
Earthquake 55 Responses if You are Outside During an Earthquake
55 After an Earthquake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Special
Considerations for Agricultural Producers 57
Earthquakes
The crust of the earth is made up of seven masses called tectonic
plates. They are in steady motion. Accumulated stress builds up
from the continental plates grinding, sliding or colliding against or
slipping under each other. Pressure is released in a powerful
explosion of energy that fractures the earth's surface, shakes the
ground, causes the ground to roll, liquefies some soil and generates
giant water waves.
When an earthquake will unleash its force remains unpredictable.
Preliminary cracks may send off foreshocks before a main fracture.
These foreshocks can occur months or minutes before the rapid onset
of the earthquake. An earthquake lasts for seconds or minutes, while
aftershocks may occur for months after the main earthquake.
Powerful and widespread ruptures or shaking ground can cause
buildings to move off their foundations or collapse; damage utility
lines, other structures and roads; set off fires; and threaten the
lives of people and animals. It is the damage to structures that
presents the greatest risks to life and property.
Earthquakes create a trigger for other natural hazards such as
landslides, tsunamis, avalanches, fires and flash floods.
The greatest likelihood of major earthquakes is in the western United
States, particularly along the San Andreas Fault in California and up
the Alaskan Coast, in the New Madrid Fault Zone in the Midwest, and
in a few pockets on the East Coast, particularly in South Carolina
and New England. There is no seasonal or yearly cycle of
occurrence. Earthquakes can happen at any time. Major earthquakes
appear to occur in cycles of between 50 and 275 years.
How Earthquakes are Measured
The Richter Scale provides a measure of the magnitude of the
earthquake in terms of energy released, measured in equivalent tons
of TNT. Each unit represents a 10-fold energy release.
An earthquake of Richter 2.5 or less is usually ignored. Dishes
rattling and china shaking occur at 3. The Modified Mercalli
Intensity Scale is a more subjective accounting or survey of behavior
and damage based on observation at the site. Depending on the
intensity of ground vibrations, the elasticity of buildings and
structures, and how well structures are connected to their
foundation, falling or collapsing objects and structures accompany
earthquakes. Structural instability, such as dam failures, can
trigger flash floods. Fires have been the greatest cause of damage
in the past. Offshore earthquakes may cause tsunamis.
Preparing for an Earthquake
In addition to precautions outlined in the sections on General Family
Preparedness, Residential Fires and Hazardous Material Accidents, you
need to take the following steps.
1. Become familiar with earthquake terms.
Aftershocks: Tremors that occur in
the hours or days after the initial earthquake shaking is over.
Epicenter: The place on the surface
of the earth directly above an earthquake's first movement
(focus).
Fault: A fracture in the earth's
crust along which rocks have been displaced.
Focus: The point beneath the
surface of the earth where the rocks first break and move,
beginning the earthquake.
Intensity: An indication of an
earthquake's apparent severity at a specific location, based on
its effects on people and structures.
Magnitude: Size of an earthquake
determined from the size of the seismic waves it generates as
recorded by seismographs.
Mercalli Scale: The scale used to
measure the strength of an earth- quake as determined by
people's eyewitness observations.
Tidal wave: This is a misnomer for
a tsunami. Tidal waves occur from the interaction of the moon
and large bodies of water. Waves you see rolling into the ocean
shore every day are tidal waves. Tsunami: A seismic sea wave.
An
unusually large wave (or series of them) produced by an undersea
earthquake or volcanic eruption.
2. Safeguard your home by:
Bolting bookshelves, water heaters
and cabinets to wall studs.
Anchoring things so that they will
not move or fall during an earthquake is the most important
thing you can do to make yourself safe. Keeping things in place
also means they will not break.
3. There are many ways to make the
contents of your home and workplace less hazardous.
Move cabinets and tall furniture so
that if they fall they are not likely to hit people.
Use steel angle brackets to anchor
them to studs in the wall.
Put heavy or breakable things on
bottom shelves. You can even put "fences" or restraining wires
to keep items from falling off open shelves.
Put child-proof or swing-hook
latches on bathroom and kitchen cabinets. At work, put strong
latches on cabinets where hazardous items are stored.
Use screw-eyes or tongue-in-groove hangers to mount mirrors or
pictures instead of hanging them on nails.
Be sure that ceiling fans and light
fixtures are well anchored or have earthquake safety wiring.
(continued next page) Preparing for an Earthquake
(continued)
Anchor typewriters, computers,
televisions, stereos and like items with heavy duty Velcro, at
home and at work.
Strap your water heater to anchor it
to wall studs. You can buy metal strapping, called plumber's
tape or strap iron, in hardware stores. Use it to strap the
heater at the top and bottom. This not only preserves your best
source of
water but also significantly reduces
the fire hazard in your home by preventing a broken gas
line.
Do not assume that anything is too
heavy to move in an earthquake. When the ground is going up and
down in waves, it bounces even the heaviest equipment into the
air.
During an Earthquake
1. Get under a heavy table or desk and hold
on, or sit or stand against an inside wall.
2. Keep away from windows.
3. If indoors, stay indoors.
4. If outdoors, stay outdoors away from
falling debris, trees and power lines. 5. If in a car, stay in
the car.
6. Many injuries occur when people act on
their impulse to run. Train yourself to take cover where you
are.
Notes:
Responses Inside Buildings During an Earthquake
For most of us the biggest danger in an earthquake is not from a
building collapsing, but from things inside the building falling or
flying around while the building is shaking.
Hazards found inside buildings include overhead lights, ceiling
tiles, cabinets, windows, furniture and equipment.
If an earthquake happens, the best thing to do is:
1. Drop, cover, and hold on.
Get under a table.
If there are no tables, get under or
down between rows of chairs or against inner walls. 2. Do not
stand in a doorway. Buildings
today have so much partitioning, much of which is temporary,
that many doorways are actually weak points. Doorways are not a
good solution in a group situation either.
3. If you have nothing to get under, sit
down against an interior wall or next to a chair, holding on if
possible.
4. If you are in bed, it's best to stay there,
hold on, and pull the pillows over your head for protection.
5. If children are in another room, take
cover in the closest safe place and call to them to do the
same.
Children will need you alive and unhurt
after the earthquake. Avoid the urge to run to protect your
children, as that puts you in more danger of being hurt or
injured.
Responses if You are Outside During an Earthquake
1. Outside, get away from buildings, walls,
trees and power lines.
If you cannot get clear of hazards,
getting back inside a building is better than staying on the
sidewalk.
Sidewalks next to buildings are
among the worst places to be. 2. In a car, ease off the
accelerator and
slow down carefully. Do not stop on or under overpasses and
bridges if you can avoid them. Be aware of what traffic around
you is doing and act accordingly.
3. If you live in coastal areas, be aware of
possible tsunamis.
Notes:
After an Earthquake
1. Take basic precautions immediately after
an earthquake. In addition to those outlined in the General
Family Preparedness, Residential Fires and Hazardous Materials
Accidents sections you should:
Expect aftershocks.
Avoid using vehicles except in
emergencies.
2. Check yourself for injuries and protect
yourself by putting on shoes, work gloves and any other
protective gear at hand.
3. If the electricity is off, turn on a
flashlight.
4. Once you are sure that you're all right,
check the people around you for injuries.
You might ask loudly, "Is everyone
okay?" This will also help calm people. The types of injuries
that happen
most often in an earthquake include cuts, bruises, fractures and
physiological shock.
5. Check the entire building for structural
damage and chemical spills. Refer to the section on Hazardous
Materials Accidents for further response information.
Check chimneys for cracks and damage.
The initial check should be made from a distance. Have a
professional inspect the chimney for internal damage that could
lead to fire.
6. Right after an earthquake, hang up your
phone. If the receivers are shaken off the hooks, these lines
register as "open" in the system and it overloads. You can help
restore telephone service by hanging up your phone.
Notes:
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers
In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
pages, the agricultural producer should consider the following
measures.
1. Immediately after an earthquake, animals will react with great
fear. Animals, including
cats and dogs, that are usually docile and accustomed to humans,
may react violently. They may bite, scratch or run at you.
2. Earthquake aftershocks compound the problem of caring for animals
right after an
earthquake. Aftershocks are quite frequent after large
earthquakes, and further increase the fear and skittish
reactions of animals.
3. The best thing to do for animals after an earthquake is to get
them out in the open, to
open pasture or rangeland. Let the animals run free. Do not
attempt to rope or chain large animals such as cows and horses
because they may injure or kill themselves if an aftershock
occurs and they try to run.
4. Get animals out of barns or buildings that may have been damaged
in an earthquake.
Barns are especially susceptible to earthquake damage. Large
beams and rafters may not be well secured, thus making the barn
subject to collapse during aftershocks.
Hay bales and large equipment may be tossed around and come
tumbling down on
animals and people inside barns.
Immediately open the doors and let the animals out. It's easier to
recover a live
animal than replace a dead one.
5. Ensure that mechanical equipment has not been turned over or
damaged. If there is
danger of electrical shock, turn off the main electrical circuit
breaker or fuse. If you smell gas or suspect a gas leak, turn
off the main valve.
6. Check fence lines and posts. You may need to build a make-shift
yard from temporary
posts and fencing. Then repair/rebuild the regular fencing, and
open the temporary yard when completed.
7. If animal carcasses need to be disposed of refer to the General
Family Preparedness,
Special Post-Disaster Considerations section for appropriate
handling.
Notes: Residential Fires
Residential Fires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Fire Safety and Prevention . . . . . . . . . . 59 What to Do in
Case of a Fire . . . . . . . . . 60 What to Do After a Fire. . .
. . . . . . . . . 61
Residential Fires
Fire safety and prevention are important for everyday emergencies,
but they are crucial during disasters. More than 6,000 Americans die
and 100,000 more are injured by fires each year. Fire spreads
quickly. A fire's heat is more dangerous than the flames; inhaling
super hot air can sear your lungs. Fires produce poisonous gases
that make you drowsy and disoriented. In addition to those measures
outlined in the General Family Preparedness section, the following
fire specific measures should be followed.
Fire Safety and Prevention
1. Install smoke detectors in your house or
apartment.
Place detectors on every level of
your house: - outside bedrooms - at the top of open stairways
or the
bottom of enclosed stairs - near (but not in) the
kitchen.
Clean smoke detectors regularly
and replace batteries once a year.
2. Plan escape routes with your family.
See the General Family Preparedness section of the Handbook.
3. Clean out storage areas. Don't let trash
accumulate.
4. Check electrical wiring.
Inspect extension cords for frayed
or exposed wires or loose plugs.
Do not overload extension cords or
outlets.
5. Never use gasoline, benzine, naptha or
similar liquids indoors.
Never smoke near these flammable
liquids.
Safely discard all rags or materials
soaked in flammable material after use.
6. Check heating sources. Make sure they
are clean and in working order.
7. Alternative heating sources such as
wood, coal and kerosene should be used carefully.
8. Make sure that home insulation is not in
contact with electrical wiring.
9. Know where your gas meter and central
electrical panels are so you can shut them off in an emergency.
If you shut off your gas line, allow only a gas company
representative to turn it on again to make sure it is done
properly.
10. Ask your local fire department to inspect
your house for fire safety and prevention.
11. If you live in wildland areas, your house
could be a target for wildfire.
Call local authorities and get
information about wildfires in your area.
Do not install an untreated wood
shake roof.
Make your landscape fire safe by
removing excess brush and undergrowth, planting fire
resistant plants, and pruning trees of low branches.
Notes:
What to Do in Case of a Fire
1. To put out a small fire, take away its air
or fuel, or cool it with water or fire extinguishing chemicals.
2. Never use water on an electrical fire.
Use only a fire extinguisher.
3. Oil and grease fires occur primarily in
the kitchen. Smother the flames with baking soda or salt or put
a lid over the flame if it is burning in a pan.
4. Small fires can be controlled with water
or fire extinguishers, but do not try to put out a fire which is
getting out of control.
5. If your clothes catch on fire, stop, drop
and roll until the fire is extinguished. Running only makes the
fire burn faster. 6. Sleep with your door closed. If you
wake up to the sound of a smoke detector, feel the door before
you open it.
If the door is cool, leave
immediately. Be prepared to bend low or crawl. Smoke and
heat rise, and the air is cooler near the floor.
If the door is hot, escape through a
window. If you cannot escape, hang a white or
light-colored sheet outside the window to alert fire
fighters of your presence.
Notes:
What to Do After a Fire
1. Contact your insurance agent about
estimates and loss coverage.
2. Do not enter a fire-damaged building
unless authorities have given you permission.
3. When entering a building, be watchful
for signs of heat or smoke because they may be signs of
smoldering remains of fire.
4. Have an electrician check your
household wiring before the current is turned back on. Do not
attempt to reconnect any utilities yourself.
5. Beware of structural damage. Roofs and
floors may be weakened and need repair. 6. Discard food,
beverages and medicines
that have been exposed to heat, smoke or soot.
7. If you have a safe or strong box, do not
try to open it. A safe or fire proof box can hold intense heat
for several hours. If the door is opened before the box is
cooled, the entering air combined with the high internal
temperature may cause the contents to burst into flames.
Refer also to the General Family Preparedness section.
Notes: Floods
Floods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Preparing for Floods and Flash Floods. . . . . 63 Building Dikes
To Prevent Minor Surface Flooding 64 Preventing Leaks in
Basements. . . . . . . . . 65 Cleaning Up After a Flood Setting
Priorities . 67 Salvaging Sewing Machines and Sergers. . . . . 68
Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses . 69 Cleaning
Flood-soiled Blankets, Quilts, Comforters, Linens 72 Restoring
Electrical Service After a Flood . . 74 Flooded Gardens. . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . 76 Checking Flood-damaged Buildings . . . .
. . . 77 Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements . . . 79
Finding and Repairing Leaks in Roofs . . . . . 81 Controlling
Rodents After Floods . . . . . . . 82 Controlling Insects After
Floods . . . . . . . 83 Special Considerations for Agricultural
Producers 84
Preparing For a Flood or Flash Flood on Your Farm or Ranch 84
Protecting Livestock During a Flood . . . . 84 Preparing to
Evacuate Your Farm . . . . . . 85 Safety Rules for Farm
Clean-up. . . . . . . 86
Floods
Floods are the most common and widespread of all natural hazards.
Some floods develop over a period of days, but flash floods can
result in raging waters in just a few minutes. Even very small
creeks, gullies, culverts, dry streambeds or low-lying ground that
may appear harmless in dry weather can flood. Wherever you live, be
aware of potential flooding hazards. If you live in a low-lying
area, near water or downstream from a dam, you must be prepared for
floods. In addition to the information provided here, also refer to
the General Family Preparedness section.
Preparing for Floods and Flash Floods
Some simple advance preparation will help you be ready for possible
floods in your area.
1. Know the flood warning system in your
community and be sure your family knows the warning. Instruct
family members in emergency procedures during a flood warning.
If you live in an area subject to frequent
or sudden floods, especially flash floods, you may wish to have
family flood drills. Assign each family member an emergency
task such as gathering emergency supplies, turning off
utilities, or listening to the radio for instructions.
2. Flood
proof your
buildings.
Install check valves in sewer traps
to prevent water from backing up in sewer drains.
Seal cracks in walls and floors with
hydraulic cement.
Place heavy screens over lower
windows to prevent breakage from floating objects.
3. Be ready to protect appliances from
minor flooding. Put a half-block of cement under each corner of
refrigerators, freezers, washing machines and dryers. Use
bricks or boards if you don't have cement blocks.
4. Identify fire hazards.
During a flood, fire danger is
increased. In addition, fire departments may be unable to get
to fires through high water. Watch for these fire hazards on
your property:
- Broken or leaking gas lines
- flooded electrical circuits,
- submerged furnaces or
electrical
appliances - flammable or
explosive
materials coming from
upstream.
5. Before floodwaters crest, turn off the
main power switch if you think the electrical circuits are going
to be under water.
Never Touch The Switch While You
Are Wet Or Standing In Water. Do not turn the electrical system
back on until it has been inspected by an electrician.
6. Know what a river height forecast
means for your property especially how far your property is
above or below expected flood levels.
7. Know where to go in case of flooding.
Remember that you must seek higher ground as quickly as
possible, on foot if necessary.
8. If you are camping, know how far your
campsite is above nearby waterways.
Know how to seek higher ground.
Stay out of unknown water paths
such as dry creeks or river beds.
If advised to leave the area, do so
immediately.
9. Refer to the General Family
Preparedness section of this Handbook for additional steps to
take.
Notes:
Building Dikes To Prevent Minor Surface Flooding
Standing water from melting snow or heavy rains can flood basements
and damage yards, wells, feed supplies, machinery and other
property. Flooding is more apt to occur in areas with poor surface
drainage systems or ice dams.
A 1- to 3-foot high sandbag earth dike offers protection from shallow
flooding (water depth less than 3 feet). Contact a construction
firm, lumber yard or Civil Defense officials for information on where
to buy sandbags in the area.
A sandbag dike can be constructed as follows:
1. Select the site for the dike, making the
best use of natural land features to keep it as short and low as
possible. Avoid trees or other obstructions which would weaken
the structure. Do not build the dike against a basement wall.
Leave about 8 feet of space to maneuver between the dike and
buildings.
2. Remove ice and snow (down to the bare
ground if possible) from a strip of land about 8 feet wide.
3. Fill and lap sandbags.
Fill bags approximately half full of
clay, silt or sand. Do not tie.
Alternate direction of bags with
bottom layer lengthwise of dike.
Lap unfilled portion under next
bag.
Tamp thoroughly in place. Build the
dike three times as wide
as it is high.
4. Seal the finished dike to increase its
watertightness. To seal the dike:
Spread a layer of earth or sand 1
inch deep and about 1 foot wide
along the bottom of the dike on
the water side.
Lay polyethylene plastic sheeting so
that the bottom edge extends 1
foot beyond the bottom edge of the
dike over the loose dirt. The
upper edge should extend over the
top of the dike. (This plastic
sheeting, available from
construction supply firms, comes
in 100-foot rolls and is 8 or 10
feet wide.)
Lay the plastic sheeting down very
loosely so that the pressure of
the water will make the plastic
conform easily with the sandbag
surface. If the plastic is
stretched too lightly, the water
force can puncture it.
Place a row of tightly fitting
sandbags on the bottom edge of the
plastic to form a watertight seal
along the water side.
Place sandbags at about 6-foot
intervals to hold down the top
edge of the plastic. Place boards
or dirt between these sandbags to
prevent winds from disturbing the
plastic. As you work, avoid
puncturing the plastic with sharp
objects or by walking on it.
Notes:
Preventing Leaks in Basements
Quick thaws or heavy rains can mean damp or flooded basements. Leaks
in basements may be caused by cracked walls, improper grading, water
in window wells or water pressure under floors.
Cracks
Watertight concrete is important to prevent water seepage in the
basement. Fill cracks when the soil is dry, so cracks will be dry.
It is best to fill cracks when there is no artificial heat in the
basement so thin layers of mortar can cure.
1. Wide cracks (« inch or more). Shape
the crack like a V with a star drill or cold chisel. Fill with
mortar.
Chisel out the sides of the crack to
make a V opening about 1 inch deep
and 1 inch wide at the surface.
Coat the crack with a creamy
mixture of cement and water.
With a trowel immediately fill the
opening with a 1:2 mixture of
cement and sand mortar (one amount
of cement to two amounts of sand
mortar). Or use a chemically
treated cement available at
hardware or building supply
stores.
2. Hairline cracks. Fill the cracks with a
cement base paint. With a scrub brush apply a cement wash of
Portland cement and water. Or check for other leak-stopping
materials at your local lumberyard or hardware store.
3. The ground around foundations should
slope away from the house at a rate of at least 6 inches in 10
feet. You should regrade by cutting and filling if you notice
water standing along foundations, or if the surrounding ground
is flat or slopes toward the house.
4. Carry roof water away from the
building by eave gutters and downspouts. Water from downspouts
should be carried about 3 feet away from the foundation wall.
Use a splash block, downspouting
or tile drain.
Do not direct water from the
downspouting into the drain around
the footing.
(continued next page)
Notes:
Preventing Leaks in Basements
(continued)
Window Wells
1. Check window wells to be sure that
surrounding ground ends a few inches below the top of the well.
2. To prevent water seeping down the outer
surface and under the well, compact several inches of dirt
around the well.
3. If there is tile around basement footing,
dig a post hole inside the well to this tile. Fill with clean
gravel.
4. If there is no tile around footing,
improve drainage by laying drain tile from the bottom of the
window well to a lower point in the yard. Basement Floors
Water pressure under concrete basement floors may cause them to leak
or buckle. To relieve this pressure:
1. Build a sump so water can run into it
and be pumped out.
2. If there is a layer of clean gravel under
the floor, drill a hole in the side of a floor drain. This will
allow water to flow through the gravel to the drain, and will
relieve the pressure under the floor.
3. Leaks sometimes can be diverted
through concrete lined channels below or above floor level.
Make a channel by chipping away floor and smoothing it with
mortar, or by building a ditch above floor level. Carry the
channel around the wall to a floor drain.
Notes:
Cleaning Up After a Flood Setting Priorities
Priorities will vary with the kind and seriousness of damage.
Buildings may not be habitable during repair.
1. Examine building structure. Check
foundations for settling, cracking or undermining. Examine
walls, floors, doors and windows to determine what repairs are
necessary. You may want to repair only temporarily until
extensive work can be done.
2. If basement is flooded, start pumping the
water in stages. Pump about one- third of the water each day.
3. Get the electrical system in operation. If
the switch box is in a flooded basement, do not turn electricity
back on until water has been pumped out. Take electrical
appliances to a serviceman as soon as possible.
4. Get the water system in operation.
Disinfect wells and water system.
5. Shovel out mud and silt before it dries.
6. Before they dry, wash down flooded
walls and floors with a hose. Start at upper limit of flooding
and work downward. 7. Scrub and disinfect walls and floors.
8. Start the heating system if possible to
speed up drying. Before operating it, the heating system may
need to be cleaned, dried and reconditioned. Make sure chimneys
are clean before starting system.
9. Dry out walls and floors. If necessary
for proper drying, strip walls open up to water level. Drill
holes in exterior siding. Complete drying may take months.
10. Repair buckled walls and floors.
11. Clean and dry household items,
furniture, carpets, clothing, dishes and bedding.
Disinfect when necessary.
12. Treat items for mildew as needed.
13. Care for damaged trees, shrubs and
lawn.
14. Repaint, repair, refinish as necessary.
Notes:
Salvaging Sewing Machines and Sergers
Most damage to flooded sewing machines and sergers is caused by
rust. Even if the machine was not submerged, check for rust caused
by general dampness. Rust develops quickly on highly polished,
machined or plated surfaces.
1. If the equipment was submerged, the
machine (head and controls) or the serger should be serviced by
a dealer or professional sewing machine/serger repair person
within 10 days if possible.
2. Try to prevent as much damage as
possible by drying equipment quickly.
Use a hand-held hair dryer to help
dry interior parts.
Dry attachments with a soft cloth or
a hair dryer.
Rinse attachments and removable
metal parts in dry cleaning
solvent or a light machine oil.
Oil replaces water and protects
the metal.
3. Oil interior parts to protect them. Put a
few drops of machine oil on each moving part and operate the
sewing machine or serger by hand for several minutes to
distribute oil.
If the equipment has been submerged, do
not use the motor and controls to operate the equipment until
they have been inspected by a dealer or a repair person. 4. If
the sewing machine, serger or
attachments have already begun to rust, follow preventive
measures as above. Then rub rusted parts with very fine steel
wool and reapply a coating of oil.
5. If the equipment cannot be serviced
within 2 weeks, be sure a light film of oil remains on the
parts.
Store equipment in a large plastic
bag until serviced to protect
other surfaces from leaking oil.
Place a chemical dehumidifier in
the bag with the machine to absorb
any residual moisture.
6. If equipment and controls were not
submerged, professional servicing may not be necessary. Follow
rust prevention measures for metal parts and then operate the
equipment with the motor.
If the equipment works properly,
remove excess oil from attachments and other removable parts
with a soft cloth. To remove excess oil from interior metal
parts and thread-handling mechanisms sew/serge through scrap
fabrics until no more oil is absorbed into fabric.
Notes:
Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses
Mattresses
1. A good innerspring mattress should be
sent to a commercial renovating company. Renovation is too
difficult to do at home. Ask about the cost of the work. It
may be less expensive to buy a good reconditioned or new
mattress.
2. If a mattress must be used temporarily,
scrape off surface dirt and expose mattress to sunlight to dry
as much as possible. Cover mattress with a rubber or plastic
sheet or mattress cover before using it. 3. If you decide to
keep a flood-soiled
mattress, it should be sterilized.
This must be done at a sterilizing
plant such as a mattress company
or a state hospital.
Ask your local public health
department or county Extension
agent for information on mattress
sterilizing plants in your area.
Have mattresses as dry as possible
before taking them to a
sterilizing plant. Use crop
drying fans or household fans to
speed up the drying process.
(continued next page)
Notes:
Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses
(continued)
Feather Pillows
1. For feather pillows, if ticking is in good
condition and does not contain red or yellow stains, wash
feather and ticking together.
Brush off surface dirt.
Wash in machine or by hand in
warm (not hot) suds 15 to 20
minutes. Use a disinfectant,
following product directions for
use. If using an automatic
washer, wash no more than two
pillows at one time.
If washing by hand, rinse at least
three times in clear warm water.
Spin off water or squeeze out as
much water as possible. Do not
put pillows through a wringer.
Dry in an automatic dryer at
moderate heat setting. Put
several bath towels in the dryer
with the pillow to speed up
drying. Allow about 2 hours. Or
dry pillows in a warm room on a
sweater drying rack with a fan on
them. Shake and turn pillows
occasionally to fluff feathers and
hasten drying. Or hang pillows on
a clothesline by two corners.
Change position end to end and
shake occasionally to fluff
feathers and speed drying.
2. If ticking is not in good condition or is
stained with red or yellow mud, wash feathers and ticking
separately.
Find or make a bag of light weight,
firmly woven fabric such as
muslin. The bag should be two to
three times larger than the
ticking.
Open one edge of the ticking.
Pin the open edges of the ticking
and the bag together. Shake
feathers from ticking into bag.
Sew seam in bag to close it.
Wash and dry the bag of feathers,
following directions for washing
feathers and ticking together.
Wash the ticking, using a
disinfectant in the first wash.
Follow product directions for
use. Repeat washing until stains
have been removed. Difficult red
and yellow stains may need to be
bleached or treated with rust
remover. Avoid drying the ticking
with heat until all stains have
been removed.
Transfer clean feathers to clean
ticking, using the same method as
for emptying the ticking. Sew
seam in ticking to close it.
Feathers will slide into the ticking
more easily if ticking has been
starched and ironed.
3. If pillows have been badly soaked with
flood water, it may not be possible to remove all objectionable
odors.
(continued on next page)
Notes:
Cleaning Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses
(continued)
Polyester Fiberfill Pillows
1. Brush off surface dirt.
2. Wash in machine on gentle cycle or by
hand in warm (not hot) suds, using a disinfectant. Follow
product directions for use. If washing by hand, flush water
through the pillow by compressing it. Do not wring or twist.
Repeat if all stains are not removed.
3. If washing by hand, rinse three times in
clear, warm water.
4. Spin off water or press out as much
water as possible by hand.
5. Follow directions for drying given for
feather pillows. Foam Rubber or Urethane Pillows
1. Brush off surface dirt.
2. Follow manufacturer's directions if
available. Otherwise, wash in machine on gentle cycle or by
hand in warm (not hot) suds, using a disinfectant. Follow
product directions for use. If washing by hand, use a bathtub
or large sink. Wash by pushing down on the pillow, releasing
and pushing down again. Rinse the same way. Do not wring or
twist.
3. Rinse well with lukewarm water.
4. Gently squeeze or spin out excess water.
Blot with towels.
5. Dry away from heat or sunlight.
Pillows may be tumbled in an automatic dryer on "air only"
setting. Do not use heat. Or air dry on a flat surface,
turning regularly. Pillows may dry very slowly in the air.
Notes: Cleaning Flood-soiled Blankets, Quilts, Comforters, Linens
Wash only one blanket, quilt or comforter at a time. Shake and brush
to remove surface dirt. Follow manufacturer's laundering directions
if available. Otherwise follow the directions below.
Wool Blankets, Quilts and Comforters
1. Soak for 15 to 20 minutes in lukewarm
water. Use a bathtub or large sink. Turn two or three times
during soak period. Drain off water. Several soak periods
maybe needed if the blanket is very soiled.
2. Wash in lukewarm water with mild
detergent and disinfectant appropriate for fiber content.
Follow product directions for use. Immerse blanket and work
suds through gently, using as little agitation as possible. If
necessary, repeat washing procedure.
3. Rinse in clear water three or four times.
4. Gently squeeze out water. Hang blanket
over two or more clotheslines. Let blanket droop between lines
to distribute weight evenly. Or use automatic dryer set on low
heat or air only. Remove blanket from dryer while it is still
damp and hang over clotheslines to finish drying. Gently
stretch blanket into shape as it dries.
5. Brush blanket on both sides to raise nap.
Steam press binding, using a synthetic setting. Quilts and
comforters do not need brushing or pressing. Cotton and
Synthetic Blankets (Not Electric)
1. Machine wash on gentle cycle in warm
(not hot) water with detergent and disinfectant. Follow product
directions for use. Repeat if necessary.
Use bleach or rust remover to remove
red or yellow stains. Test before use because some bleaches and
rust removers may remove or change the colors.
2. Dry in automatic dryer on moderate
heat. Add several towels to speed drying. Or air dry on a
clothesline.
3. Press binding if needed.
(continued next page)
Notes: Cleaning Flood-soiled Blankets, Quilts, Comforters, Linens
(continued)
Electric Blankets
1. Avoid twisting, crimping and wringing
the wiring.
2. Machine wash on gentle in warm (not
hot) water no more than 5 minutes. Dissolve detergent in wash
water before putting blanket in machine. Disinfect, following
product directions. Do not use chlorine bleach as the
disinfectant.
Evenly distribute the blanket in the
machine. Use cold rinse. Do not put blanket through a
wringer.
3. Machine dry by preheating dryer at a
moderate or warm setting. Add the blanket and allow it to
tumble for 10 minutes.
Remove blanket while still damp and
hang over two or more clotheslines to finish drying. Straighten
and shape blanket as it dries.
4. If washing by hand, follow directions for
wool blankets. Electric mattress pad and foot-warmer pads may
be washed like electric blankets. Sheets, Towels, Linens
1. Brush and shake off as much loose dirt
as possible.
2. Soak or rinse mud-stained fabric in cool
water in washing machine to remove some of the soil.
3. Wash in warm suds and disinfectant
several times if necessary. Follow product label directions for
use. Do not use hot water or dry with heat until all stains
have been removed.
4. If stains remain after several washings,
bleach with sodium perborate or chlorine bleach. Rust remover
may remove red or yellow stains. Test bleaches and rust
removers before use because they may remove or change the
colors.
Notes:
Restoring Electrical Service After a Flood
CAUTION: Wear rubber gloves and rubber soled boots for all work
with electrical
circuits. Rubber is an insulator and will help protect you from
shocks.
After a flood, your electrical system should be thoroughly checked
and repaired by an electrician. If such service is unavailable and
you need to do your own repairing, proceed as follows: 1. Turn power
off.
Disconnect the main electrical
power switch and other switches
controlling pumps or
outbuildings. If your main switch
is located in the basement, be
sure all flood water has been
pumped out before you attempt any
work on the electrical system.
Stand on a dry board when touching
any switches and use a dry stick
or wear rubber gloves to pull
handles.
Remove all branch circuit fuses or
place circuit breakers in off
position to ensure that power is
off.
Disconnect all plug-in equipment
and turn off the switch at each
piece of permanently connected
equipment. Unscrew all light
bulbs.
2. Clean and dry the system.
If flood water covered your first
floor, electrical outlets and
switches are probably wet. They
must be dried before service can
be restored. Remove the covers
from switches,
convenience outlets and other
electrical connections.
Pull receptacles, switches and wires
about 2 inches out from their
boxes. Do not disconnect the
wires.
Clean out mud and dirt with clean
water. Allow wires and
connections to dry.
Use extreme caution in cleaning
mud and dirt from the main
entrance box. Because the power
line enters here, this is the most
hazardous part of the electrical
system to work on. Assume the
sewer line is hot even if a test
shows power is off. Never hose
out a hot switchbox. Wear rubber
gloves and rubber soled shoes. Do
not touch anything wet or stand in
water while working on the box.
In an emergency, pull the electrical
meter from its base to disconnect
the power. Notify the electric
company that you broke the seal,
lock or tag.
Allow electrical wires and
connectors to dry completely.
This may take days depending on
how wet the system is and if any
heat is available.
(continued next page)
Restoring Electrical Service After A Flood
(continued)
3. Check the system for electrical shorts.
While standing on a dry board or
ladder and wearing rubber gloves
and rubber soled shoes, check the
main switch box to be sure all
fuses are removed.
Close the main switch and look for
sparks or smoking wires. These
indicate shorted switch
connections. If you see evidence
of such shorts, carefully try to
correct the problem. You may need
a new switch.
If the switch is in working order,
open the switch and insert a fuse
in one branch circuit.
Close the switch to check for shorts
in that branch circuit.
If the fuse doesn't blow
immediately, wait at least 15
minutes to check for slower
electrical leaks. Smoking wires
and sparks in the circuit also
indicate trouble and you should
carefully inspect all parts of the
branch circuit you are checking.
If there are any signs of smoking or
heating, if the fuse blows, or
circuit breaker trips, remove all
fuses and open the main switch.
You may need to do additional
cleaning or drying, or you may
possibly need to replace circuit
parts. Repeat steps for each of
the other
circuits one at a time.
After you have checked all the
circuits and found them in good
condition, once again remove all
fuses and open the main switch.
Replace wires for electrical
receptacles, switches and light
outlets in junction boxes.
Replace covers.
Then check each branch circuit
again by replacing one fuse at a
time and closing the main switch.
If everything is okay, close the
main switch.
4. For 24 hours be careful when using
receptacles and switches. There may be slow leaks which could
cause shocks. Do not plug in electrical appliances that have
been flooded until they have been reconditioned.
5. If some circuits are faulty, use only the
undamaged circuits. Do not overload undamaged circuits with too
many lights or appliances until normal capacity is restored.
6. Some newer homes may have a ground
fault circuit interruption system with their circuit breaker.
This will probably need to be replaced.
Notes:
Flooded Gardens
1. If flood waters have covered a garden,
some produce will be unsafe to eat. The safety of unharvested
fruits and vegetables will depend on:
Kind of produce
Maturity of produce at the time of
flooding
Time of year flooding occurred
Severity of flooding (depth of water
and silt)
Duration of flooding
Bacterial content of floodwater
Likelihood of contamination from
sewage or other bacterial
contaminants
2. In general, fruits and vegetables which
were immature at the time of flooding should be safe to eat by
the time they are ready to harvest. For additional safety,
disinfect produce and cook it before eating.
3. Unless flooding was light and there is no
danger of bacterial contamination from floodwater, do not use
fruits and vegetables that were ready for harvest at the time of
flooding unless they are disinfected, peeled and thoroughly
cooked. Some fruits and vegetables are more susceptible than
others to bacterial contamination.
Leafy vegetables such as lettuce,
cabbage, mustard, kale, collards,
spinach, swiss chard, celery, and
fleshy vegetables and berry fruits
such as tomatoes, summer squash,
strawberries and peppers are
highly susceptible to bacterial
contamination.
Silt and other contaminants may be
imbedded in the leaves,
petioles, stems or other natural
openings of fleshy structures and can be difficult to
remove.
Root, bulb and tuber crops such as
beets, carrots, radishes, turnips,
onions and potatoes are less
susceptible to bacterial
contamination. Disinfect these
vegetables, peel and cook them
thoroughly before eating.
Produce with a protected fruit or
impervious outer skin such as
peas, melons, eggplant, sweet corn
or winter squash should be washed
and disinfected before the outer
shell skin or husk is removed.
Then shell, peel or husk the
produce and cook it if possible.
4. Thoroughly wash and disinfect any
produce before eating.
Wash in a strong detergent solution
with a scrub brush. Remove all
silt.
Immerse produce for 15 to
20 minutes in a chlorine
solution. Household bleaches
contain from 2 to 6 percent
chlorine. The amount of bleach to
add to water depends on the
percentage chlorine it contains:
2 percent 3/4 tablespoon/quart; 4 percent 1 teaspoon/quart; 6
percent 1/2 teaspoon/quart).
Rinse thoroughly with safe drinking
water.
Peel if possible and cook
thoroughly before eating.
Refer any specific questions to
health authorities or your county
Extension agent.
Notes:
Checking Flood-damaged Buildings
1. Use extreme caution when entering any
damaged building.
2. If you must enter at night, carry a
flashlight or other light.
3. If gas lines are broken, turn off gas at
the meter or tank.
4. Do not smoke or use any open flame.
5. Watch for loose plaster and ceilings that
could fall.
6. Open as many doors and windows as
possible to remove moisture, odors and flammable or toxic
gases. If windows are stuck tight, take off window strips and
remove entire sash. If doors are stuck, drive out door hinge
pins with a screwdriver and hammer, and remove doors.
7. If you are not qualified to judge the
stability of a foundation, hire a contractor to make this
inspection.
A neighborhood might join together in
hiring a contractor for this work.
8. Examine foundations and supports for
undermining. If walls or foundations have settled or cracked,
uncover footings and raise, reinforce or brace any settled
sections.
Be extremely careful when uncovering
footings, because of the possibility of cavernous washouts.
9. If underlying material has been washed
away, fill spaces to within 12 inches of the footing with gravel
or crushed rock.
Fill the remaining space with concrete
reinforced with steel rods. 10. Check piers for settling or
shifting.
11. If the building has shifted or the floors
have settled badly, it may be necessary to install
temporary bracing until extensive work can be done.
12. Drain any crawl spaces which contain
water.
13. Wash out mud, dirt and debris as soon
as possible with a hose and mop, cloth or sponge. Clean
walls and floors before silt or mud dries.
14. Start cleaning from the top floor or
upper limit of flooding and work downward toward the first
floor or basement.
15. Check walls with a level or plumb bob.
16. Brace walls where necessary.
17. Check mudsills, plates, soles and
anchorage. Replace or repair where necessary, using
redwood, cedar or treated lumber.
18. To speed up drying of flooded studding
and insulation, remove all siding strips or plaster from
upper and lower parts of the walls. Do not repaint walls
until they are completely dry.
This may take several months.
Flooded insulation may be ruined.
19. Remove loose plaster. After house is
completely dry, repair damaged plaster on walls and
ceilings. Badly damaged plaster walls can be resurfaced
with gypsum board or plywood.
(continued next page) Checking Flood Damaged
Buildings
(continued)
20. Flooded wooden floors will dry out
slowly. Don't build fires to speed up their drying, as
this could cause cracking or splitting from uneven drying.
However, if the central heating system is operating, keep
the temperature of the house at 60ø to 70øF to hasten drying
without causing additional problems.
21. To prevent further buckling and
warping, drive nails where the floor tends to lift or
bulge.
22. After floors are completely dry, plane or
sand them level.
23. If floors are too badly damaged to be
refinished, lay a new floor over the old, or cover with
carpet, vinyl or linoleum.
24. If a concrete floor is badly damaged,
break it up and install a new floor.
If damage is minor, patch with a rich
mixture of concrete containing no coarse gravel aggregate.
25. Use plastic sheeting or roll roofing for
temporary repair on solid deck roofs covered with asphalt
shingles, wood shingles or roll roofing.
26. Use knife consistency patching
compounds to repair minor leaks.
27. You probably will have to replace
damaged metal roofing on spaced roof decks.
Notes:
Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements
Before you enter a flooded basement:
1. Turn off the electricity, preferably at the
meter.
2. Check outside cellar walls for possible
cave-ins, evidence of structural damage or other hazards.
3. Turn off gas or fuel service valves.
4. Open doors and windows or use blowers
to force fresh air into the basement.
5. Do not use an electric pump powered by
your own electrical system. Use a gas-powered pump or one
connected to an outside line. Fire departments in some
communities may help with such services.
More damage may be done by
pumping water from the basement
too soon or too quickly, than from
letting the floodwater remain.
Water in the basement helps brace
the walls against the extra
pressure of water-logged soil
outside.
If water is pumped out too soon,
walls may be pushed in or floors
pushed up.
To help prevent such structural
damage, pump the water from the
basement in stages. Remove about
one-third of the water each day.
Watch walls for signs of failing.
If the outside water level rises
again after the day's pumping,
start with a new water line. The
soil may be very slow to drain,
but do not hurry the pumping.
Whatever is submerged in the
flooded basement will not be
damaged further. By delaying the
pumping, serious structural damage
may be prevented.
6. After water has been pumped from the
basement, shovel out the mud and debris while it is still
moist. Hose down walls to remove as much silt as possible
before it dries. Floors and walls may need sanitizing,
particularly if sewage has entered the basement. Scrub walls
and floors with one of these sanitizing solutions:
Chloride of lime (25 percent
available chlorine). Dissolve a
12-ounce can in 2 gallons of
water.
High test hypochlorate (65 percent
available chlorine) Stir 5 ounces
into 2 gallons of water.
7. Oil stains in basements caused by
overturned or damaged oil tanks may be a problem following
flooding. Commercial products (such as Neutrodal ) will help
neutralize fuel oil.
Products are available in powder
form or an aerosol spray for
hard-to-reach places.
To remove oil stains and destroy
odor, wipe up excess oil, shake or
spray product on the spot
according to manufacturer's
directions, and let it set.
(continued next page)
Cleaning and Repairing Flooded Basements
(continued)
8. Check supporting columns, beams, walls
and floors. Structural damage to flooded basements usually
includes buckled walls, settled walls or heaved floors.
9. Buckled walls are evidenced by
horizontal cracking and walls moving out of plumb. When this
condition is minor, you need not repair the wall immediately.
However, any noticeably buckled wall will eventually collapse
from normal ground pressures and seasonal temperature changes.
When buckling has seriously
weakened the wall, rebuild the
damaged parts immediately. Build
pilaster into walls over 15 feet
long for reinforcement. Pilaster
spacing should be 12 to 15 feet.
10. Settled walls and footings are indicated
by vertical cracks either in small areas or throughout the
structure. Repairs are difficult without special
equipment. Contact a reliable contractor for this work.
11. Heaved floors are those that have not
returned to their original level, or have cracked badly.
You may need to construct a new floor:
Remove old, broken concrete.
Place 6 inches of gravel fill on the
basement floor surface.
Cover area with a polyethylene
vapor barrier.
Lay a 4-inch concrete floor with
water proof expansion joints
between the floor and the walls.
The floor should be reinforced
with steel.
Welded wire reinforcement placed
at mid-height in the slab is
minimum reinforcement.
12. If a floor is badly cracked, but has
returned to its original level, and if there is sufficient
headroom, place a new floor over the old one. Add a vapor
barrier between the two floors. The new floor should be at
least 2 inches thick.
13. In houses without basements, the area
below the floor may be completely filled with mud. Remove
the mud as soon as possible to avoid rotting joists or
foundation wood. Jack up the house, if necessary, to make
sure all mud is removed.
Notes:
Finding and Repairing Leaks in Roofs
Causes of Leaks
Defective flashing. Wet spots near a
chimney or outside wall may mean the leak is caused by defective
flashing, narrow flashing or loose mortar joints.
On sloping roof valleys and at junctions
of dormers and roof, look for corroded, loose or displaced
flashing. Defective flashing often occurs around dormers and
plumbing vent pipes.
Clogged downspouts or eaves. Check
for choked downspouts on flat roofs. Accumulated water or snow
on the roof above the flashing may cause a leak. Ice
accumulations on eaves can form ridges that cause melting snow
under the eaves to back up.
Cracks and deterioration. Roofing
(especially wood or composition shingles) usually deteriorates
first on southern exposures. Check southern slopes for cracking
or deterioration.
Holes. Wet spots on plain roofs usually
are caused by missing shingles or holes in the roofing. To find
holes, look for light coming through places in unsealed attics.
Stick a straw through the hole to mark the spot on the outside.
Repairing Leaks
Methods of repair will depend on the kind of roofing and the nature
and extent of the leak.
1. Replace missing shingles with similar
shingles or pieces of rust-resistant metal. (In an emergency
you can use metal cut from a tin can.)
Paint the metal on both sides and
slip it under the upper layer of
shingles. Be careful not to
dislodge or loosen sound
shingles.
Cut out old nails with a long thin
cold chisel.
Cover exposed nails with roofer's
cement.
2. Patch small holes with metal screws.
Use neaprene washers in low places.
3. Repair large holes by replacing metal
sheets or patching with a heavy cloth or canvas and elastic
roofer's cement. Apply cement carefully over the patch to
prevent canvas from sagging into the hole.
4. To repair cracks in the roof:
Place heavy cloth or light canvas
over the cracked area, extending
the cloth approximately 6 inches
beyond the cracked area.
Use a roofing brush to smooth out
cloth, and brush on two thin coats
of roof coating. Keep cloth
smooth while brushing.
Notes:
Controlling Rodents After Floods
1. Rats and other rodents often move into
buildings to escape flood waters. Rats can carry disease and
small vermin. They should be eliminated as soon as possible.
2. Because of the danger of rat infestation,
use caution when entering flooded buildings.
Carry a solid club and a flashlight.
Inspect likely hiding places for
rats.
Check closets, furniture, drawers,
mattresses, stacks of clothes or
paper, appliances, upholstered
furniture, dark corners, attics
and basements.
Be extremely careful when
approaching rats. A starving rat
can be dangerous.
3. Eliminate rat populations by poisoning
rats that can't be destroyed by clubbing or trapping. Use rat
control measures as recommended by your county Extension agent.
Be extremely careful when using rat poison or bait, especially
if there are children in the house. 4. After infestation has
been controlled,
clean up rat harboring places. (Rats may move into buildings
when their hiding places are removed.) Remove trash piles and
piles of damaged furniture or equipment. Store materials on
platforms or shelves 1 to 18 inches above the ground.
5. Remove food sources. Store food
supplies in rat-proof bins or containers. Suspend garbage
containers from trees or posts. Remove animal carcasses which
may attract rats. Do not leave scraps of food around.
6. Maintain several permanent rat bait
stations in strategic locations, even after rat infestation has
been controlled. This should eliminate rats that can migrate
from neighboring areas, and will help prevent another
infestation. Inspect baits frequently and replace them with
fresh material whenever necessary.
7. If you are bitten by a rat, take the rat to
your local health authorities or a veterinarian. The animal
should be checked for rabies.
Notes:
Controlling Insects After Floods
1. Eliminate breeding spots.
Empty water from barrels, old
tires, cans and other vessels.
(This water may be polluted by
floodwaters and may be a health
hazard, in addition to being a
breeding place for insects.)
Also, check clogged gutters and
flat roofs which have poor
drainage. Make sure cisterns,
cesspools, septic tanks, fire
barrels and rain barrels are
covered tightly.
Whenever possible, drain ponds,
pools or any standing water in
which mosquitoes may breed.
Dispose of refuse. Bury animal
carcasses as soon as possible.
Bury or burn garbage at least once
every week. Be sure garbage cans
have tightly fitting lids. When
using manure and garbage as
fertilizer, spread it thinly so it
will dry quickly and not support
fly development. Clean up
debris. In some climates,
scorpions may seek refuge in and
around buildings during flood
conditions. During the day they
hide beneath loose stones, loose
bark of fallen trees, boards,
piles of lumber, and within walls
of buildings.
2. Patch screens and other places where
mosquitoes may enter buildings. Paint screens with an
insecticide solution recommended by your county Extension
agent.
3. Use a household spray or an aerosol
bomb to kill mosquitoes, flies or other insects that get into
buildings. Do not apply oil-based sprays to flowers or
ornamental plants. Spray shrubbery and shaded areas of
buildings to kill adult insects. Contact your county Extension
agent for specific recommendations.
4. If possible, keep small children indoors,
especially in the evening. Persons who must go outside at dusk
should use a repellent on exposed parts of the body and
clothing.
Notes:
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers
In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
measures.
Preparing For a Flood or Flash Flood on Your Farm or Ranch
1. If you graze livestock in areas subject to
flash flooding, consider using the area for larger animals.
Pigs and calves are less likely to survive a flood than larger
animals. 2. Leave animals an exit route to higher
ground when possible. Animals will not always use an exit
wisely.
3. If heavy rains are expected, pen animals
on high ground at night.
Protecting Livestock During a Flood
Livestock that are not in a confined area usually can take care of
themselves during floods. Do not let them become trapped in
low-lying pens.
In broad, level flood plains where flood waters are seldom deeper
than 3 or 4 feet, construct mounds of soil on which livestock can
stay until flood waters recede. Or carry bales of hay for hogs to
climb on. Try to locate these mounds where they will not be washed
away by fast flowing water.
1. Provide feed and water. Water is
essential. Thirsty animals will try to break out to get to
flood waters. If water is in short supply, limit feed intake.
2. If animals are housed with machinery,
fasten bales of straw in front of sharp edges and protruding
parts such as cutter bars or crank handles.
Do not use hay because animals
will eat it. Try to cover wooden
paddle wheels
on combines or choppers because
these parts can be dangerous if
partially broken.
3. Block off narrow passageways where
animals would be unable to turn around. A few heavy animals in
a narrow dead end can be dangerous both to themselves and the
building.
4. Be absolutely sure that herbicides,
pesticides and treated seeds are not even remotely accessible to
livestock and are stored where flood water will not contaminate
livestock feed or water.
5. Turn off electricity at the main switch.
Livestock could damage electric fixtures, causing fires or
electrocutions.
6. If there is a possibility that dairy barns
may become inundated, drive cattle out of the barn. During a
rapid rise of water, cattle often refuse to leave the barn and
may drown if the water rises high enough.
Preparing to Evacuate Your Farm
Ensure family safety first. See the General Family Preparedness
section for more information on evacuation procedures. Be certain
you have enough time to get to higher ground before access is cut
off. If you have time before you receive an evacuation order, the
following precautions may help you protect your farm buildings,
livestock and equipment from flood damage:
1. Move machinery, feed, grain, pesticides
and herbicides to higher elevations.
2. Construct mounds of soil for livestock,
or open gates so livestock can escape high water.
Small numbers of hogs can sometimes
be saved by bringing them bales of hay to climb on.
3. Animals swim well. The greatest
problem for grazing animals will be fences and other obstacles.
Try to drive stock through water free of obstructions.
Long swims through calm water are
safer than short swims through a swift current.
4. Leave building doors and windows open
at least 2 inches to equalize water pressure and help prevent
buildings from shifting.
5. If possible, move motors and portable
electric equipment to a dry location.
6. Disconnect electric power to all
buildings which may be flooded. Call your utility company if in
doubt about how to disconnect power electric. 7. Dairymen who
anticipate extensive
flooding should:
Check with a veterinarian to be
sure cattle are properly immunized
before being exposed to flood
waters.
Check with the Department of
Health concerning approval of
temporary milking facilities.
Try to obtain standby equipment or
services for emergency milk
pickup.
When possible, move grain out of
reach of flood water.
8. Tie down lumber, logs, irrigation pipes,
fuel tanks and other loose equipment or material.
9. Prepare immovable power units and
machinery for flooding.
Seal radiator openings (tighten caps
and plug overflow).
Remove air cleaners and
carburetors; seal openings. Use
material strong enough to
withstand water pressure.
Fill oil reservoirs. Plug breather
pipes and openings.
Fill bearings with fresh lubricant.
Protect open gears, sprockets,
pulleys and wearing and cutting
edges of machinery with lubricant
or rust inhibitor.
Drape polyethylene sheeting over
bell ends of motor. Tie securely
with cord on cylindrical part of
motor housing, or fasten with a
strong rubber band.
Safety Rules for Farm Clean-up
1. Delay permanent repairs until buildings
are thoroughly dry.
2. Spread wet feeds to dry. Avoid feeding
wet feeds to livestock unless absolutely necessary.
3. To avoid a fire hazard, move wet hay
outside and spread it out to dry.
4. Move livestock to unflooded pastures to
prevent disease.
5. Get rid of pests such as rodents, snakes
and insects.
6. Promptly dispose of animal carcasses.
7. Disassemble, clean, dry and lubricate
farm machinery. Do not start motors or engines until they are
cleaned and reconditioned. 8. Clear and open drains, ditches,
channels, small streams and tile-drain outlets. Drain
floodwater, if possible, from fields.
9. Plug breaks in dikes; use temporary
structures to stop breaks and prevent further high water.
10. Clear debris, especially barbed wire and
other materials which could be dangerous to livestock, from
lots and fields.
11. Avoid overexertion and strain in lifting
and moving heavy objects or loads.
12. When using kerosene, keep away from
heat, sparks and open flame.
Notes: Hazardous Materials Accidents
Hazardous Materials Accidents. . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Preparing for Hazardous Materials
Accidents in the Home 88 What to Do If a
Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs 90
After a Hazardous Materials Incident 91
Reacting to a Hazardous Spill in Your
Home 92 Special Considerations for
Agricultural Producers 93
What to do if a Hazardous Materials
Accident Occurs 93 After a Hazardous
Materials Accident 93
Hazardous Materials Accidents
Hazardous materials are substances which, because of their chemical,
biological or physical nature, pose a potential risk to life, health
or property if they are released. Potential hazards can occur during
any stage of use from production and storage to transportation, use
or disposal. Production and storage occurs in chemical plants, gas
stations, hospitals and many other sites. Hazardous materials
accidents can range from a chemical spill on a highway to groundwater
contamination by naturally occurring methane gas to a household
hazardous materials accident. Radiological accidents involving a
specific hazardous material will be covered in another section of
this handbook. In addition to the information provided in the
following pages, you should also refer to the General Family
Preparedness section of this handbook.
Be familiar with the local warning and notification methods.
Contact your local emergency planning committee to find out where
reportable quantities of extremely hazardous materials are
stored and used in your area.
Ask about community response plans if there is a hazardous
materials
accident at a plant or facility, or a hazardous materials
transportation accident.
Preparing for Hazardous Materials Accidents in the Home
1. Go on a home hazard hunt. Some
cleaners can cause an explosion or fire if they come in contact
with each other, water, heat or flames.
2. Make a list of the hazardous products
you have in your home. List the name of the product and
emergency care information.
3. Store hazardous household products
according to safety recommendations.
Store hazardous materials in a safe,
dry location.
Be sure all containers are closed to
avoid spills and escaping vapors.
Store flammable products and
corrosive products in separate
locations. The label will
indicate if the product is
corrosive or flammable.
Place oily polishing rags or waste in
covered metal cans.
Never store aerosols on or near
fireplaces, radiators, space
heaters, wood stoves, pilot
lights, furnaces and kitchen
appliances.
Keep herbicides and pesticides
away from any heat source.
Store herbicides separately from
pesticides. Herbicide vapors can
contaminate other products.
Store pesticides and herbicides
away from fertilizer. Their
vapors can contaminate
fertilizers. Periodically check
hazardous
product containers for
deterioration and possible leaks.
Check periodically to be sure that
labels on hazardous products are
secure and readable.
Store hazardous products on high
shelves or in locked cabinets to
prevent poisoning of children and
pets.
Do not store flammable liquids
such as gasoline and kerosene in a
garage or utility room attached to
the house.
Never store flammable liquids or
even a lawn mower filled with
gasoline near a heat source such
as gas water heaters, furnaces,
radiators, space heaters, etc.
Spontaneous combustion can occur
if the flammable liquid vapors
escape.
4. To prevent household hazardous
materials from being spilled during a disaster such as a flood,
fire or earthquake, take the following preventive measures:
Securely fasten shelves where
hazardous materials are stored.
Store incompatible products in
separate locations so they will
not come in contact with each
other.
Label the shelves where flammable
products are stored.
Store hazardous materials in a
metal cabinet to protect them from
fire.
(continued next page)
Preparing for Hazardous Materials Accidents in the Home
(continued)
Dry off containers that get wet in a
flood. Move them off damp shelves
until the shelf material has dried
thoroughly.
Check labels on wet containers and
reglue or tape them securely
before they come off completely.
5. Be aware of how different chemicals
may react during mixed spills. Some common chemicals and their
dangers are:
Kitchen
Cleansers (reactive) Detergents
(reactive) Cooking oil
(flammable) Aerosols (explosive
in fire)
Bathroom
Aerosols (explosive in fire)
Alcohol (flammable) Nail polish
remover (flammable) Medicines
(see label)
Bedrooms
Aerosols (explosive in fire)
Gun ammunition (explosive in
fire) Medicines (see label)
Workshops
Paints (toxic) Paint thinner
(toxic, flammable) Adhesives
(toxic, flammable)
Garage
Gasoline (toxic, flammable)
Antifreeze (toxic, flammable)
Brake fluid (toxic, Flammable)
Transmission fluid (toxic,
flammable) Oil (flammable)
Laundry Room
Detergents (reactive) Cleansers
(reactive) Bleach (reactive)
Gardening
Pesticides (toxic, reactive)
Fertilizers (toxic, reactive,
most
flammable or explosive when
mixed with gasoline)
General
Natural gas (flammable,
explosive) Sewer gases from
broken sewer
pipes (toxic, explosive)
Notes:
What to Do If a Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs
1. If you witness a hazardous materials
accident, spill or leak, call 911, your local emergency number
or the fire department as soon as possible.
2. Stay away from the incident site to
minimize your chances of contamination.
3. If you are caught outside during an
incident try to stay upstream, uphill and upwind. Hazardous
materials can be transported quickly by water and wind.
In general, try to go at least « mile
(10 city blocks) from the accident
area.
If you are in a vehicle, close off
ventilation and close the windows
to reduce contamination or
inhalation of the hazardous
material.
4. If you are told to evacuate, do so
immediately.
Before leaving your home or office,
close all windows, shut vents and turn off attic fans to
minimize contamination.
5. In some circumstances, it is safer to
keep community residents inside. This is known as "in-place
sheltering." If you are instructed to stay inside:
Follow all instructions carefully.
Seal entry routes as efficiently as
possible. Close windows and doors
and seal drafty places with wet
towels, blankets or duct tape.
Turn off furnaces, air conditioners,
vents and fans to keep fumes from
entering the house.
If dangerous fumes do enter the
home, take shallow breaths through
a cloth or towel.
Quickly fill up your bathtub with a
supply of uncontaminated water and
turn off the intake valve to your
home.
Stay in protected areas of the house
(bathroom, stairwell, basement)
where toxic vapors are less likely
to penetrate.
Close all fireplace dampers.
Seal any gaps around window air
conditioning units, bathroom and
kitchen exhaust fan grilles and
stove and dryer vents with tape
and plastic sheeting, wax paper or
aluminum wrap.
If local authorities warn of an
outdoor explosion, close all
drapes, curtains and shades. Stay
away from windows to prevent
injury from breaking glass.
6. Avoid contact with any spilled liquid
materials, airborne mist or condensed solid chemical deposit.
Keep your body fully covered and wear
gloves, socks and shoes, even though these measures may offer
minimal protection.
7. Avoid eating or drinking any food or
water that may be contaminated.
Notes:
After a Hazardous Materials Incident
1. Do not return home until authorities say
it is safe.
2. Upon returning home, open windows
and vents, and turn on fans to provide ventilation.
3. A person or item that has been exposed
to a hazardous material may be contaminated and could
contaminate other people or items. If you have come in contact
with or been exposed to hazardous materials:
Follow decontamination instructions
from your local authorities.
Stay away from water or showers
until you know if the material
reacts with water.
Seek medical treatment for unusual
symptoms that may be related to
hazardous materials release. If
medical help is not available
immediately and you believe you
may be contaminated, remove all of
your clothing and shower
thoroughly (unless authorities
advise otherwise). Change into
fresh, loose, warm clothing and
seek medical help as soon as
possible.
Place exposed clothing and shoes in
tightly sealed container without
allowing them to touch other
materials and call local
authorities to find out about
proper disposal.
Advise others who come in contact
with you that you may have been
exposed to a toxic substance.
4. Report any lingering vapors or other
hazards to your local emergency services.
5. Find out from local authorities how to
clean up your land and property.
Notes:
Reacting to a Hazardous Spill in Your Home
1. If the spill is large and too big for one
person to control and clean up, cal 911 or your local emergency
number as soon as possible.
2. Keep the area of the spill from
spreading. Set up barriers and ventilate the area if it is
inside the home or garage. Keep children and pets away.
3. Check label for instructions about
contact.
Wear rubber gloves and boots.
Wear long pants and a long sleeved
shirt to avoid skin contact.
4. Clean up as soon as possible.
Don't flush the spill away with a
hose.
If dust or powder is spilled, limit
air movement in the area and pick
up the material in a way that
minimizes making the dust or
powder airborne.
If liquid is spilled, cover it with
an
absorbent material such as kitty
litter, paper towels or old rags.
Sweep or scoop the solids and the
original container into a plastic
bag, also scoop up any
contaminated dirt or gravel. Seal
the plastic bag.
Scrub the area with detergent or
water.
For very toxic liquid substances
such as pesticides, cover again
with absorbent materials and sweep
or scoop up the absorbent into a
plastic bag.
Scrub repeatedly until traces of the
chemical are gone.
5. Place all cloths in a used plastic bag.
Double bag, seal and label.
6. Completely rinse the area and any tools
used.
7. Dispose of contaminated materials in an
appropriate manner according to directions on the label.
8. If the spill is a very toxic product,
decontaminate clothing and equipment to avoid contaminating your
home and others. Follow the same decontamination procedures you
would for a toxic spill outside the home.
Notes:
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers
In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
measures. Also refer to the section on General Family Preparedness.
Prevent a hazardous materials accident by making sure agricultural
chemicals are properly stored. Follow instructions on labels.
What to do if a Hazardous Materials Accident Occurs
1. Follow the same response procedures
outlined in the first part of this section.
2. If livestock are downwind, downhill or
downstream of the incident move them as far from the area as
possible. 3. Do not enter the area or attempt to reach
animals if you must pass the area of incident.
4. Refer to the Radiological Accidents
section for information on protecting food and water sources.
After a Hazardous Materials Accident
1. Monitor animals for signs of illness that
may be associated with the accident. 2. Contact local
authorities for information
on the cleanup of land and animals.
Notes: Hurricanes
Hurricanes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
How and Where Hurricanes Form 94 Why
Hurricanes are a Risk to People 95 How
to Prepare for a Hurricane 96 Actions
During a Hurricane Situation 97 Basic
Response After a Hurricane 98 Special
Considerations for Agricultural
Producers 99
Turf Grass Recovery After a Storm
Surge 99 Recovering Small Fruits101
Hurricanes
How and Where Hurricanes Form
Counterclockwise winds draw heat and moisture from the tropical
ocean, contributing to the formation of an intense and strong
tropical cyclone. Hurricane proportions are reached when winds are
sustained at 74 miles per hour (mph) or more. This air revolves
around a relatively calm 20- to 30-mile-wide eye, spreading outward
almost 400 miles. As the storm moves forward at about 15 mph, it
releases heavy rains and accelerating winds and causes the ocean to
swell. Hurricanes may be preceded by a tornado in the right front
quadrant. Losing some intensity as it approaches land, the storm
brings severe rains, wind and storm surges that inundate coastal
areas. Moving further inland, a hurricane loses strength but
continues its outpouring of rain and high winds.
Hurricanes are formed in the North Atlantic, Caribbean Sea, Gulf of
Mexico and the Pacific Coast of Mexico. The greatest likelihood of a
hurricane striking land areas is along the Gulf Coast and the
southeastern seaboard. But hurricanes also have hit central
Pennsylvania and the coast of New Jersey, New York and New England.
Over land, hurricanes break up rapidly. Cut off from their oceanic
source of energy and with the added effects of frictional drag from
land, their circulation rapidly weakens and becomes more
disorganized. Torrential rains, however, may continue even after the
winds are much diminished. In the southeastern United States, about
one-fourth of the annual rainfall comes from dissipating hurricanes.
The Atlantic hurricane season lasts from June through November.
August and September are peak months. There is no "season" for
Pacific hurricanes. Hurricanes occur north of the equator over the
Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Typhoons occur in the South Pacific.
Tropical cyclones occur over the Indian Ocean. All of these storms
are the same phenomenon.
Why Hurricanes are a Risk to People
Nearly 100 million Americans are at risk from hurricanes. Hurricanes
pose three major threats:
1. Wind: Hurricane winds exceed
74 mph. The winds of Hurricane Andrew were measured more than
120 mph. Hurricane winds cause buildings to rip apart, uproot
unstable structures or objects, damage utility lines and
threaten lives. Wind damage can occur hundreds of miles
inland. Heavy rains in mountainous areas can cause flash
flooding where there is little warning of this major threat to
life and property.
2. Heavy rain: There are "dry" and "wet"
hurricanes. A "dry" hurricane moves quickly over land and may
drop a total of 5 inches of rain or less. These hurricanes
usually do not pose much of a risk from flooding but usually can
cause great wind damage. "Wet" hurricanes can drop more than 9
inches of rain per square mile and are slow moving. They can
stall, dropping 18 inches or more of rain in some areas. 3. A
storm surge is a large dome of water
pushed up in advance of a hurricane making landfall. This dome
of water can exceed 20 feet, depending on the strength of the
hurricane. It's important to differentiate storm surge from a
tsunami (incorrectly referred to as a "tidal wave"). A storm
surge is a large amount of water, on top of which there is heavy
wave action. A storm surge can last for several hours.
The advancing storm surge combines
with the normal tide to create the hurricane storm tide. In
addition, wind waves 5 to 10 feet high are superimposed on the
storm tide. This buildup of water level can cause severe
flooding in coastal areas, particularly when the storm surge
coincides with normal high tides. In addition to the
information you will find in this section also refer to the
section on General Family Preparedness.
Notes:
How to Prepare for a Hurricane
1. Know the risks of the area. If you live
in an Atlantic or Gulf Coastal state within 100 miles of the
shore, or on Hawaii, Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Guam,
American Samoa or Palau, you are subject to devastating effects
from hurricanes.
2. Know what a hurricane "watch" and
"warning" mean.
A Hurricane Watch means a
hurricane may hit your area.
A Hurricane Warning means a
hurricane is headed for your
area. You may be told to move to
a shelter or evacuate the area.
Do so immediately.
3. Review your family disaster plan. (See
the section on General Family Preparedness.)
Check straps and anchors for
manufactured homes, sheds and
outbuildings.
Install hurricane shutters or precut
-inch marine plywood for each
window of your home. Install
anchors for the plywood and
predrill holes in it so that you
can put up the plywood quickly
when a WATCH is issued.
Make trees more wind resistant by
strategically removing branches so
that wind can blow through them.
Remove diseased or damaged limbs.
4. Refer to the General Family
Preparedness section for additional precautions you should
take.
Notes:
Actions During a Hurricane Situation
1. During a watch (24 to 36 hours before
landfall):
Cover ALL windows of your home.
If shutters are not installed, use
precut plywood. If you do not
have plywood, do what you can to
protect windows from breaking.
Tape does not work. Remove tree
limbs, branches, shrubbery and
other objects that can break
windows.
Recheck manufactured home tie-downs.
Listen to the advice of local
officials and leave if told to do
so.
Take in lawn furniture, outdoor
decorations or ornaments, trash
cans, hanging plants and anything
else that can be picked up by the
wind and become a missile of
destruction.
2. During a warning (24 hours before
landfall):
Evacuate if you are advised to do
so. See the General Family
Preparedness section for steps
that should be taken. Also see
the Floods section if heavy rains
or flooding are present.
If you are not advised to evacuate,
stay indoors and away from
windows.
Be aware of the calm "eye;" the
storm is not over. The worst part
of the storm will happen when the
eye passes over and wind comes
from the opposite direction.
Trees, shrubs, buildings and other
objects damaged by the first winds
can be broken or destroyed by the
second winds, whose force is
opposite the direction of the
first winds.
Be alert for tornadoes. Tornadoes
can happen during and after a
hurricane passes over. Remain
indoors, in the center of your
home, in a closet or bathroom
without windows. The section on
Tornadoes offers additional
information you will need if a
tornado occurs.
Notes:
Basic Response After a Hurricane
1. Wait until an area is declared safe before
entering.
Roads may be closed because they
have been damaged or are covered
by water. Barricades have been
placed for your protection. If
you come upon a barricade or a
flooded road, go another way.
Keep listening to the radio for news
about what to do, where to go or
places to avoid.
2. If you must walk or drive in areas that
have been affected by the hurricane, stay on firm ground.
Moving water only 6 inches deep can sweep you off your feet.
Standing water may be electrically charged from underground or
downed power lines. 3. Check gas, water and electrical lines
and
appliances for damage.
Use a flashlight to inspect for
damage.
If necessary, turn off main gas
valves and electrical switches or
fuses. Have these services
restored by a professional.
4. Use the telephone to report life-threatening emergencies only.
5. If you need assistance, visit your local
Red Cross service center or chapter facility. State and federal
agencies often provide assistance to individuals, families and
businesses after larger storms. Listen to the radio for
information on how to obtain governmental assistance.
6. Hurricanes bring a variety of associated
problems. Refer to the Floods, Tornadoes and General Family
Preparedness sections for information on various hazard
responses.
Notes:
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers
In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
measures.
Turf Grass Recovery After a Storm Surge
The surge of salt water brought inland by a hurricane can damage
turfgrasses on lawns, golf courses, sod farms, parks, playgrounds,
sports fields and leisure-recreation sites.
1. Irrigation with clean, sodium-free, fresh
water is probably the most important practice to follow when
rinsing accumulated salts from turf leaf surfaces and leaching
salts from root zones of soils.
Test all irrigation water sources for
salinity.
If the irrigation lake has been
flooded with salt water, pump it
out and fill with clean river or
well water.
You also can irrigate from a well or
river if not contaminated with
salt.
2. Bermuda, zoysia, creeping bent and St.
Augustine turfgrasses have good relative salinity tolerance.
Tall fescue and perennial ryegrass
have medium salinity tolerance.
Red fescue, Kentucky bluegrass,
and centipede grass have poor
relative salinity tolerance.
3. Repeated irrigation with water
containing 1200 parts per million (ppm) total soluble salts will
be harmful to the turf unless followed by sufficient rainfall or
fresh irrigation water. Even irrigation water containing 500 to
600 ppm total soluble salts, when used repeatedly without being
flushed with fresh water from rainfall or irrigation, can create
a problem by allowing salts to accumulate in the root zone of
the soil.
4. If it is overseeding time, remember that
turf-type perennial ryegrasses have only medium tolerance to
salinity. Test the soils for salinity before overseeding to
avoid a loss in stand of winter cover.
5. Use gypsum (calcium sulfate, 18 percent
sulfur, 20 percent calcium) to help leach salt from the soil.
Gypsum works best when incorporated into the soil but it can be
broadcast on the turf. Gypsum is not very soluble in water but
it is more soluble than limestone.
Irrigate after gypsum application to
move it into the soil surface and
root zone of the turf. Allow a
period of time for the chemical
reaction, then continue irrigation
to leach the salts into soil below
the root zone.
(continued next page)
Turf Grass Recovery After A Storm Surge
(continued)
Poorly drained soils will be
difficult
to leach. Water logging the soil
for extended periods of time can
be as harmful to the turf as
excess soluble salts. Core
aerification or deep tine
aerification, preferably with
coring tines, can greatly assist
with improving infiltration and
percolation of water and salts
through the soil and below the
root zone.
Notes:
Recovering Small Fruits
Storm damage to small fruits shows itself in different ways,
depending on crop growth habit as well as proximity to the storm. In
addition to wind, too much water, in some instances salt water, can
adversely impact crops.
The following suggestions will help fruit growers evaluate damage and
take corrective action.
1. Where wind damage is significant,
pruning should be as light as possible. However, if large areas
of cambium are exposed, the plant probably will not survive
without attention. Make clean cuts to minimize the exposed
cambium area. If the plant can be saved, several growing
seasons may be needed to retrain.
2. Many plants that are leaning or uprooted
can be reset if the root ball is intact. Once reset, secure
with stakes to immobilize them.
3. Reshape altered dikes, terraces or raised
planting beds to protect the area, cover exposed roots or
provide a medium for new root growth. Use the smallest
equipment possible to accomplish the job to minimize compaction
and reduce further root damage.
4. If strawberry plants can be secured in
the next 10 days, most plastic- culture plantings should be
replanted. The most expensive inputs, irrigation, plastic mulch
and fumigation, are still intact, while plant costs are
relatively small compared to these. 5. Premature defoliation
caused by
tremendous wind speeds will weaken fruits. Defoliation coupled
with root damage cause additional stress because the root system
serves as a storage reservoir for carbohydrates manufactured by
the leaves.
Without this reservoir of
carbohydrates to call on for
energy during the winter, the
plants may be saved in the short
run only to be killed during the
winter.
Once the top damage has been
pruned out and after the first
freeze, apply nitrogen in a
complete fertilizer at the rate of
30 pounds actual N per acre. This
will help the plant start new root
growth, which will continue during
the winter as long as the soil
temperature is above 45øF.
6. Soil concentrations of 3,000 ppm soluble
salt will make fruit culture very difficult. However, some
fruits are much more salt tolerant than others.
Grapes, figs, pomegranates and
pecans are examples of fruits that
will not be hurt by increased salt
concentrations as readily as
blueberries, strawberries and
blackberries.
If the soil salt concentration is
high,
irrigate frequently to help reduce
the buildup of salt following
evaporation.
(continued next page)
Recovering Small Fruits
(continued)
Test all irrigation water for
salinity.
If irrigation ponds have been
contaminated, pump them out and
fill with clean river or well
water.
Rainfall, while complicating other
cleanup activities, aids in
flushing the soil. If the sodium
content is 250 ppm or
more, internal drainage problems
will occur. This can be corrected
somewhat by the use of gypsum as a
soil additive. Apply at the rate
of 2 ounces (2 tons per acre) of
gypsum per square foot of area and
immediately irrigate to move the
material into the soil profile.
Notes: Radiological Accidents
Radiological Accidents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
Radiation Types . . .104 Preparing for a
Nuclear Power Plant Accident105 What to
Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency106
Safety of Home Gardens After a Nuclear
Accident107 Recovering Losses and
Expenses from a Nuclear Accident107
Special Considerations for Agricultural
Producers108
What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant
Emergency108 Animal Care After a
Nuclear Accident109 Recovering
Exposed Fruits, Vegetables and
Soils110 Monitoring Fish and Marine
Life111 Marketing Animals and
Products111
Radiological Accidents
Radiation is energy in the form of waves or particles and is part of
our everyday lives. Our planet receives radiation from outer space
and from the sun. Other naturally occurring radioactive materials
are present in the soil, in the structures where we live, and in the
food and water we consume. These natural forms of radiation are
referred to as "background radiation."
Radioactive materials also are a source of fuel for nuclear power
plants. While the history of such plants in the United States has
been generally safe, residents living near power plants should know
what preparations and responses are appropriate to take in the event
of a radiological accident. In addition to the information in this
section, also refer to the General Family Preparedness section.
Radiation Types
The three basic forms of radiation are:
1. Alpha particles can be stopped by a
single sheet of paper or a few layers of dead skin. Therefore,
alpha radiation is not an external hazard. However, if the
source of radiation is within the body, it is the most serious
hazard, because of alpha radiation's greater biological effects
on live tissue.
2. Beta particles can be stopped by a few
layers of clothing, 10 feet of air or a half-inch of tissue. If
beta particles are retained in the skin, they can damage living
cells by causing severe skin or eye burns. They also can damage
cells in the digestive tract if particles are ingested with food
or water. 3. Gamma rays are similar to x-rays and
are the major radiation of concern in radiological
environments. Gamma rays are deeply penetrating and can damage
body cells. Although all cells are subject to damage, bone
marrow cells and cells in the intestinal lining seem to be
particularly sensitive. Gamma rays can be shielded to
acceptable levels by sufficient amounts of materials.
Radioactive materials can be released in the form of particles or
gases. Both are spread by the wind. The farther the particles
travel, the lower the concentration of radioactive material.
Contamination is an undesired presence of radioactive materials. In
an accident that releases radiation into the environment, people,
farm equipment, animals, crops and the soil can become contaminated.
In addition to the following procedures, homeowners and agricultural
producers also should refer to the section on General Family
Preparedness.
Notes:
Preparing for a Nuclear Power Plant Accident
1. If you live near a power plant,
familiarize yourself with the terms used to describe a nuclear
emergency.
Notification of unusual event
means a small problem has occurred
at the plant. No radiation leak
is expected. No action is
necessary on your part.
Alert means a small problem has
occurred and small amounts of
radiation could leak inside the
plant. You should not have to do
anything.
A site area emergency is a more
serious problem. Small amounts of
radiation could leak from the
plant. Area sirens may be
sounded. Listen to your radio or
television for safety
information. A general emergency
is the most
serious problem. Radiation could
leak outside the plant and off the
plant site. The sirens will
sound. Tune to your local radio
or television station. Be
prepared to follow state and
county officials instructions.
2. Learn your community's warning
system. Nuclear power plants are required to install sirens and
other warning systems to cover a ten-mile area around the
plant.
3. Obtain public emergency information
materials from the company that operates your local nuclear
power plant or from your local emergency services office.
Notes:
What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency
1. Keep calm. Not all incidents result in
the release of radiation.
2. Stay tuned to local radio or television.
Specific instructions will be given by authorities.
Local instructions should take
precedence over any advice given in this handbook.
3. Evacuate if you are advised to do so.
See the section on Evacuation Procedures in the General Family
Preparedness section. Keep car windows and vents closed; use
recirculated air.
4. If you are not advised to evacuate,
remain indoors.
Close doors and windows.
Turn off the air conditioner,
ventilation fans, furnace and
other air intakes.
Go to a basement or other
underground area if possible. If
you must go outdoors, cover
your nose and mouth with a
handkerchief.
5. Do not use the telephone unless
absolutely necessary. All lines will be needed for emergency
calls.
6. If you have just been outdoors, take a
thorough shower.
Change your clothes and shoes.
Put the items you were wearing in
a plastic bag.
Seal the bag and store it out of the
way.
Clothes can later be washed as you
normally would in the washing
machine. Any contamination would
remain in the water and not
contaminate the washing machine.
7. Put food in covered containers or in the
refrigerator. Food not previously in covered containers should
be washed first.
Notes:
Safety of Home Gardens After a Nuclear Accident
1. Test homegrown produce for radioactive
contamination before it is consumed.
2. If you work outside make sure you:
Wash hands thoroughly before
eating.
Wear protective clothing that covers
all portions of your body while
outside. Remove outer clothing
before you
go inside.
Wear a dust mask or a folded,
damp cloth over your nose and
mouth while you work.
Avoid dust-producing activities as
much as possible.
Recovering Losses and Expenses from a Nuclear Accident
1. Nuclear power station operators are
required to have insurance to cover damages suffered by the
public. Additional living expenses, loss of farm or
business income, and physical or property damage are
covered.
2. The Federal Emergency Management
Agency also may provide funds for temporary housing and home
repair, as well as other types of assistance. See the section
on General Family Preparedness for post-disaster assistance
information.
Notes:
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers
In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
measures.
What to Do in a Nuclear Power Plant Emergency
1. Shelter livestock and give them stored
feed if advised to do so by authorities.
Some farm buildings provide better
protection than others because of
heavy construction. Placing
earth, hay, sacked feed or
fertilizer, concrete blocks or
other materials around exposed
shelter walls will increase
shielding effectiveness.
Make sure that adequate ventilation
is provided. If you must use a
fan, set it on a low speed to
avoid bringing in air from the
outside.
Give adequate space to more
valuable animals rather than
providing shelter for all animals
and risking losses from
overcrowding.
Natural shelters such as caves,
ravines, forests and wood lots
offer some protection.
Cattle could be penned in cattle
underpasses or bridges if
available. Cattle confined in
pens shelter each other to a
limited extent. Move dairy cattle
and goats indoors
first because radioactive material
easily transfers to milk.
2. Do not add water to covered storage
unless it is from a protected source.
3. Protect standing water by covering the
surface at the outset of an emergency.
4. Cover feed to protect it from falling
particles. Protect haystacks in an open field with tarpaulins,
plastic sheets or similar coverings.
5. Poultry are somewhat more resistant to
radiation than other farm animals.
Confined shelters and use of stored
feed also lower concern of
contamination.
The same feed, water and shelter
ventilation measures taken for
livestock should be followed to
reduce the likelihood of
contaminated egg and poultry
products.
6. Swine care should follow the steps taken
with other livestock. Water is a primary necessity for hogs, so
make sure the source is protected.
Notes:
Animal Care After a Nuclear Accident
1. Limit the use of feeds to those under
cover or protected from contamination.
Grain in permanent indoor storage,
hay in a barn and silage in a
covered silo may be considered
protected.
Rolled bales of hay should be used
only when absolutely necessary,
and only if the outer layers are
removed and discarded.
Do not let animals graze until you
are notified that forage in your
area is safe.
If grazing cannot be avoided,
supplementing it with protected
feed will limit ingested
contamination.
If no stored feed is available,
animals can survive on water for a
period.
Make a special effort to prevent
dairy animals from becoming
contaminated by providing clean
food and water.
If possible, prevent cattle from
drinking from ponds, lakes, rivers
and streams. Spring and well
water should be free of
contamination.
2. If you have been evacuated and your
absence is longer than the protected feed sources will last,
emergency officials may allow you to reenter the area.
You must conform to rules regarding
emergency workers, including the use of protective equipment and
instrumentation and limitation of stay.
3. It is unlikely that even a worst case
event would cause the death of any animals.
Any unexplained illness or death
would more likely be the result of
changes in routines of livestock
feeding and patterns of grazing.
In the event of death or illness of
an
animal contact your State
Department of Agriculture or
Extension agent immediately to
assist in diagnosis of the
problem.
4. Soap and water will remove
contamination from animal hides.
5. Wear protective clothing similar to that
used in pesticide application.
Notes:
Recovering Exposed Fruits, Vegetables and Soils
1. Fruit and vegetables may be externally
contaminated by radioactive particles.
Normal washing of leaves, pods
and fruits that are surface
contaminated is effective in
removing contamination.
Washing should be done in a place
other than the kitchen to prevent
contamination of foods and
dishes.
2. Underground crops absorb little
radiation. Standard washing is sufficient for these foods. 3.
Most land should be ready for normal
agricultural use several weeks after the incident.
Officials can monitor and sample
your land, advising you when it is
appropriate to return to it.
If soil is highly contaminated,
removal and disposal may be
necessary.
Planting alternative crops such as
cotton or flax instead of food
crops may be recommended in some
situations.
Deep plowing will remove
radioactive substances below the
plant root level and prevent
plants from taking up contaminated
substances.
Notes:
Monitoring Fish and Marine Life
1. Fish and marine life in ponds may be
harvested unless officials determine they are contaminated. 2.
Samples of water, fish and marine life
from open bodies of fresh and saltwater should be analyzed for
contamination.
Marketing Animals and Products
1. A buffer zone, called a Food Control
Area, will be established around land which may be
contaminated.
2. State emergency officials will monitor
milk on farms and at points on its way to market.
You will be notified if sampled milk
contains radioactive materials.
Milk should be safe if it is from
dairy animals that have been
adequately sheltered and
protected. There may be delays in
milk
pickups which will require holding
milk for longer periods of time.
Be prepared to provide alternate
storage or some milk may have to
be discarded.
3. Do not destroy animal foods unless
storage has made them inedible.
4. Livestock that have been exposed to
external contamination can be used for food if they have been
washed well and monitored by authorities prior to slaughter.
Meat animals that have internal contamination cannot be
slaughtered until officials advise that it is safe to do so.
Notes: Tornadoes
Tornadoes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
How to Prepare for a Tornado113 Special
Precautions for Mobile Home Dwellers114
What to Do During a Tornado Warning115
Responses After a Tornado116 Inspecting
Buildings for Hidden Wind Damage116
Special Considerations for Agricultural
Producers117
Tornadoes
Tornadoes are nature's most violent storms and can leave an area
devastated in seconds. A tornado appears as a rotating, funnel
shaped cloud, striking the ground with whirling winds of up to 200
miles per hour or more. A tornado spins like a top and may sound
like a train or an airplane. Although tornadoes usually travel for
up to 10 miles before they subside, 200-mile "tornado tracks" have
been reported. Tornadoes can strike any time of the year and often
accompany hurricanes. In addition to those measures listed in the
General Family Preparedness section, also use the following tornado
preparedness and response measures.
How to Prepare for a Tornado
1. Know the tornado season for your area.
2. Learn to recognize severe weather signs.
Tornado weather is usually hot and humid with southerly winds.
3. Know what a tornado looks and sounds
like. 4. Know what a tornado watch or warning
is:
A Tornado Watch indicates that
weather conditions may cause tornadoes or severe thunderstorms
to develop in or near the watch area. A watch does not mean a
tornado has been sighted.
A Tornado Warning means that a
tornado has actually been sighted or indicated by radar and
residents should take shelter.
Notes:
Special Precautions for Mobile Home Dwellers
1. When you purchase a mobile home, look
for built-in safety features:
Factory installed anchoring straps
under the skin of the mobile home
Steel binding of the mobile home
top to the frame
Covered bottom
2. When selecting a mobile home park,
consider the protection it offers your home against the wind.
Consider lots with solid concrete
foundations with steel anchor locations.
Natural barriers such as older trees
or small hills will help shelter your home.
Locate your home so the small end
is directed into the direction of prevailing winds, reducing
surface exposure to wind impact. 3. Encourage your neighbors to
tie down,
too. An unanchored mobile home blown into your home can cause
extensive damage.
4. Have your mobile home blocked
properly. Open concrete blocks are less expensive but are never
good enough.
5. Make sure you purchase approved tie-downs.
6. Skirting your mobile home will help
protect underneath the home from moisture and winter weather, as
well as reduce soil heaving caused by soil thawing and freezing
during winter months. Soil heaving destabilizes the mobile
home, requiring retightening of the tie-downs.
7. Be aware of where designated tornado
facilities or shelters are.
Notes:
What to Do During a Tornado Warning
1. When a tornado has been sighted, stay
away from windows, doors and outside walls. Protect your head
from falling objects or flying debris. Take cover wherever you
are.
In a house or small building, go to
the storm cellar or basement. If there is no basement, go to an
interior part of the structure on the lowest level (closets,
interior hallways). In either case, get under something sturdy
(such as a heavy table) and stay there until the danger has
passed. In a school, nursing home, hospital,
factory or shopping center, go to a designated shelter area.
Stay away from windows and open spaces.
In a vehicle, trailer or mobile
home, get out immediately and go to a more substantial
structure.
If there is no shelter nearby, lie flat
in the nearest ditch, ravine or culvert with your hands
shielding your head.
2. Do not attempt to flee from a tornado in
a car or other vehicle.
Notes:
Responses After a Tornado
1. Use great caution when entering a
building damaged by high winds. Be sure that walls, ceiling and
roof are in place and that the structure rests firmly on the
foundation. 2. Look out for broken glass and downed
power lines.
Inspecting Buildings for Hidden Wind Damage
1. Check the roof for:
Missing or damaged shingles.
Loose nails on metal roofing. If
nails don't hold when hammered back in, use #12 or #14 metal
screws to fill old nail holes.
Potential leaks that could indicate
structural separation. This is more easily checked for on sunny
days. 2. Inspect the foundation to make sure that
joints where the foundation and wall meet haven't separated. On
stone or concrete foundations, check to see that plate bolts
have not worked loose.
3. Inspect the interior of buildings for
structural damage.
Using a good light, check the
framing.
Look for ridge separation, loose
knee braces and loose rafters where the rafters join the walls.
Notes:
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers
In addition to those tornado concerns listed previously, agricultural
producers should inspect silos for hidden wind damage.
Make sure the silo is still plumb.
Look for loose hoops.
Inspect the base of metal silos inside and out for hairline
cracks.
Remove any rust around the base with a wire brush.
Look for new cracks in the plaster of empty concrete stave silos.
Notes: Volcanic Eruptions
Volcanic Eruptions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
Preparing for a Volcanic Eruption. . . . . . .119 During a
Volcanic Eruption . . . . . . . . . .120 Driving in Heavy Ash
Areas . . . . . . . . . .121
Volcanic Eruptions
Volcanoes are eruptions from the earth's interior which can cause
violent explosions of gases and rock. Eruptions can cause lava
flows, mudslides, avalanches, falling ash and floods. Active
volcanoes in the U.S. are found mainly in Hawaii, Alaska and the
Pacific Northwest. Fresh volcanic ash, made of pulverized rock, can
be harsh, acid, gritty, glassy and smelly. While not immediately
dangerous to most adults, the combination of acidic gas and ash which
may be present within miles of the eruption can cause lung damage to
small infants, very old people or those suffering from severe
respiratory illnesses.
Preparing for a Volcanic Eruption
1. Follow the information located in the
General Family Preparedness section of the Handbook.
2. Be familiar with terms associated with a
volcanic eruption.
Volcanic ash usually is erupted into
the air above the volcano and then is carried downward along
with volcanic gases. Pieces of ash may range from dust sized
particles to pieces of rock. Ash can overload roofs, corrode
metals, cause fabrics to decompose, clog machinery, block drains
and water intakes and injure or kill vegetation.
Lava flows are streams of molten
rock from a vent or from a lava fountain.
Volcanic gases associated with
active volcanoes are water vapor, carbon dioxide, hydrogen
sulfide, hydrogen, helium, carbon monoxide and hydrochloric
acid. People with respiratory problems and heart disease are
especially susceptible to volcanic gases.
Gases rarely reach populated areas
in lethal concentrations, although sulfur dioxide can react
with the atmosphere downwind and fall as acid rain.
Pyroclastic flows and surges are
mixtures of hot rock fragments that sweep away from their source
at hurricane velocity. Because of their high speed and
temperature, pyroclastic flows and surges kill or destroy
virtually everything in their path.
Volcanic landslides are not always
associated with eruptions; heavy rainfall or a large earthquake
can trigger landslides on steep volcanic slopes.
2. Check with your local emergency
management agency to locate hazard maps of your area. Areas
that could be endangered by volcanic ash, pyroclastic flows,
lava flows and mudflows are identified in these maps.
Notes:
During a Volcanic Eruption
1. Do not visit the volcano site; you could
be killed by a sudden explosion.
2. If ash is being expelled, avoid areas
downwind from the volcano. A building offers good shelter from
volcanic ash but not from lava flows and rock debris.
3. Be aware of flying rocks and mudflows.
The danger from a mudflow increases as you approach a stream
channel and decreases as you move away and toward higher
ground.
Mudflows can move faster than you
can walk or run.
Look upstream before crossing a
bridge, and do not cross if the mudflow is approaching. 4. If
ash is falling, stay indoors until the
ash has settled.
5. During an ashfall, close doors, windows
and all ventilation in the house.
6. Remove ash from flat or low pitched
roofs and rain gutters to prevent thick accumulation.
7. Avoid driving in heavy dust conditions
unless absolutely required. If you must drive in dense dust,
keep speed down to 35 mph or slower.
Notes:
Driving in Heavy Ash Areas
1. Avoid driving in heavy dust conditions
unless absolutely required. The more dense the dust, the more
urgent the requirement should be for driving.
2. When required to drive in dense dust,
keep the speed down to 35 mph or lower.
Do not follow too close to cars in
front of you.
Use headlights on low beam.
3. Change oil often. In very dense dust,
change at 50- to 100-mile intervals.
In light dust conditions, change oil
at 500- to 1000-mile intervals.
Lubricate all chassis components at
each oil change.
4. Clean air filter by backflushing filter
paper with compressed air (30 psi).
CAUTION! Blow element from
inside (clean side) to outside (dirty side). DO NOT strike
filter against anything.
If you are unsure, have a qualified
mechanic perform the air filter service.
5. Cover passenger compartment vent inlet
(located at base of windshield and usually under hood) with
thick, loosely woven, felt-type material to filter air into
vehicle. With vent filter in place, keep
heater blower on high. The blower will slightly pressurize the
inside of the vehicle and keep dust from entering through body
gaps or holes.
If a vent filter is not installed, keep
air conditioner and heater blowers off.
6. Have a service garage clean wheel brake
assemblies every 50 to 100 miles for very severe road condition,
or every 200 to 500 miles for heavy dust conditions.
7. Have a service garage clean alternator
winding with compressed air after heavy dust accumulation or
every 500 to 1,000 miles of severe dust exposure.
8. Wash the engine compartment with a
garden hose or steam cleaner. Be sure to seal off air intakes
and electrical components before cleaning.
9. Commercial truck filters can be installed
to increase the filtering capacity of the air cleaner. However,
this is expensive and should be attempted only by trained garage
mechanics or experienced personnel. This would be beneficial
for vehicles operating continuously in extreme dust conditions.
Notes: Winter Storms
Winter Storms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
Preparing for Winter Storms. . . . . . . . . .123 Special
Considerations for Travelers . . . . .125 Winterizing Mobile
Homes . . . . . . . . . . .126 Winterizing Residential Buildings.
. . . . . .129 Preparations to Reduce Heat Loss from Buildings130
What To Do During a Home Power Failure . . . .131 Responses to
Other Heat Loss Problems. . . . .134 Protecting Your Hot Water
System . . . . . . .135 Protecting Your Plumbing System. . . . .
. . .136 Protecting Your Sewage System. . . . . . . . .137
Protecting Appliances. . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Preventing Ice
Dams on Eaves . . . . . . . . .138 Responses to Take When Caught
Outdoors . . . .139 Responses If Trapped By a Blizzard . . . . .
.140 Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers141
Preparing for a Winter Storm. . . . . . . .141 Providing
Windbreaks for Livestock Protection142 Creating Windbreaks On
Your Property. . . .143 Protecting Livestock During Winter
Storms .145 Caring for Livestock After a Blizzard . . .146
Feeding Cattle After a Blizzard . . . . . .146 Feeding Sheep
After a Blizzard. . . . . . .147 Feeding Horses After a
Blizzard . . . . . .147 Feeding Swine After a Blizzard. . . .
. . .147 Protecting Poultry and Livestock. . . . . .148
Protecting Equipment. . . . . . . . . . . .149 Storing Milk
and Cream. . . . . . . . . . .149 Repairing Ice and Snow
Damage to Shrubs and Trees150
Winter Storms
Winter storms can strike any area. Even areas that normally
experience mild winters can be hit with a major snowstorm or extreme
cold. The results can be isolation from power outages, blocked roads
and cars trying to maneuver ice-covered highways. Everyone needs to
be prepared to protect themselves from the hazards of winter
weather-blizzards, heavy snow, freezing rain and sleet.
Preparing for Winter Storms
1. Being familiar with terminology used by
the Weather Service will help you know what to expect when
weather warnings are issued. The following terms are used
frequently in winter weather releases:
Freezing rain occurs when
temperatures are below 32øF and rain freezes on impact. This causes
an ice coating on all exposed surfaces. If the coating is heavy,
falling trees or wires can be additional hazards.
Freezing rain or drizzle is called an
ice storm when a substantial glaze layer accumulates. In some
parts of the country, ice storms are called "silver thaws" or
"silver frosts."
Sleet is frozen rain drops (ice
pellets) which bounce on surface impact. Sleet does not stick
to objects, but sufficient accumulation can cause dangerous
driving conditions.
Travelers' advisory means that
falling snow and/or drifting snow, strong winds, freezing rain
or drizzle will make driving hazardous.
Heavy snow warnings are issued
when 4 or more inches are expected during a 12-hour period, or
when 6 inches or more are expected during a 24-hour period.
Blowing and drifting snow result
from strong winds. Blowing, falling snow or loose snow on the
ground can produce sizeable drifts. Blizzard warnings are
issued when
wind speeds of 35 miles per hour or more are expected with
blowing or drifting snow.
Snow squalls are brief, intense
snowfalls accompanied by gusty surface winds.
Wind chill factor is the combined
effect of wind and cold. A very strong wind combined with a
temperature below freezing can have the same chilling effect as
a temperature almost 50 degrees lower with no wind. Anyone who
is outdoors and exposed to low temperatures and strong winds
will be more easily exhausted and more subject to frostbite or
death.
Temp. Wind 15 mph 30 mph 40 mph
30øF 11øF - 2øF -4øF
20øF - 5øF - 18øF - 22øF
10øF - 18øF - 33øF - 36øF
0øF - 33øF - 49øF - 54øF
-10øF - 45øF - 63øF - 69øF
-20øF - 60øF - 78øF - 87øF
-30øF - 70øF - 94øF -101øF
-40øF - 85øF -109øF -116øF
2. Pay attention to weather forecasts and
other winter weather releases on radio and television.
3. Check battery powered equipment,
emergency cooking facilities and flashlights so you won't be
without heat or light during a storm.
4. Check your supply of heating fuel. Fuel
carriers may not be able to deliver during heavy snow.
(continued on next page) Preparing for Winter
Storms
(continued)
5. Stock extra food. Include food that
needs no cooking in case of power failure.
6. If power is out, keep your refrigerator
and freezer doors closed as much as possible.
7. Prevent fires by not overheating your
stove, heater or furnace. Don't leave fireplaces unattended.
8. Stay indoors during cold snaps and
storms unless you are in top physical condition. If you must go
out, don't overexert.
Be particularly careful when
shoveling snow.
Heart attack is a common cause of
death during and after winter storms. Remember that cold winds
and temperatures put extra stress on your body even if you are
in good condition.
9. Wear several layers of loose-fitting,
lightweight, warm clothing. Layers of clothing trap warm air
close to your body.
You can remove clothing to prevent
perspiring and subsequent chill. Outer clothes should be
tightly woven, water repellent and hooded if possible.
Cover your mouth to protect your
lungs from extreme cold. 10. Get your car winterized before
the cold
season.
Use snow tires or chains.
Keep the fuel tank filled to prevent
water from getting into the fuel and causing the engine to
stall.
11. If you must travel when bad weather is
forecast, be sure someone knows where you are going and the
time you expect to arrive. Travel with someone else if at
all possible.
12. Blizzards may require long periods of
isolation. If you need outside help during this time, you
should know the following emergency distress signals to
signal aircraft:
Need doctor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I
Need medical supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II
Need food and water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F
Need fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .L
International distress signal . . . . . . . . . . .SOS
Make these signals on the ground
where they will be clearly visible from the air. The letters
should be at least 10 feet tall.
Use black cloth or plastic, hay,
boards or other material readily visible on the white snow. If
no materials are available, tramp the letters into the snow,
deep enough to create as much shadow as possible.
Notes:
Special Considerations for Travelers
When traveling any distance by car during the winter, observe these
safety precautions:
1. Before you leave, have your car
checked. A thorough winterizing check should include:
Ignition system Battery Lights Snow tires installed Cooling system
Fuel system Exhaust system Heater Brakes Wiper blades Defroster
Tire chains and tow chains Antifreeze Winter-grade oil
2. Select alternate routes before you leave,
in case your preferred route isn't passable.
3. Listen to the radio as you travel and
heed latest weather information.
4. Seek shelter immediately if the storm
seems severe.
5. Try not to travel alone during a storm.
Two or three people are better than one because they can help
each other. Travel with another car if possible.
6. Make sure someone knows where you
are going, when you leave, the time you expect to arrive and
your expected route. 7. Always fill your gas tank before
entering open country, even for short distances. You will be
less likely to be stranded from running out of gas. In case you
are stranded by the storm, you will have enough fuel to run the
motor and heat the car.
8. Drive defensively.
9. Carry a winter storm car kit. This
should include:
Blankets or sleeping bags to keep
you warm, or a box of newspaper to use as insulation Matches and
candles for light Empty coffee can with plastic cover
to use as a toilet Facial tissues and paper towels Extra
clothing, especially caps,
mittens and overshoes High-calorie nonperishable food Compass
and road maps Knife First aid kit Shovel Sack of sand Flashlight or
signal light with extra
batteries Windshield scraper Booster cables Two tow chains
Fire extinguisher Catalytic heater Axe Plastic scraper
Transistor radio with extra battery Tools pliers, screwdriver,
adjustable wrench
Flares
Notes:
Winterizing Mobile Homes
1. Inspect the roof for leaks and cracks.
Water can seep through to damage ceilings, interior panels or
furnishings.
When making inspections or
repairs, do not walk on the roof unless it is absolutely
necessary.
Most repair work can be done from
an extension ladder. Be careful not to lean to the side of the
ladder when making repairs. Instead, move the ladder to the
work area.
2. Check locked or lapped roof seams for
loose screws, spreading, parting or buckling. Add new screws if
necessary, and cover all seams with roof coating or asphalt-base
paint.
3. Check stacks and vents for cracks, and
make sure they are free of debris.
4. Check the flashing for loose screws and
separation from the roof.
Water can freeze between loose
flashing and the roof, causing damage when it melts.
If necessary, attach flashing to roof
area with a liberal coat of caulking and extra sheet metal
screws. Then coat screws and flashing area with roof coating or
paint.
5. Check to see that molding is secure
where roof meets exterior walls.
6. Check total roof surface for cracks,
breaks, rust or oxidation. Scrape or wire brush rusted seams
and recoat entire roof. 7. Provide at least one front and rear
circulation vent and two side circulation vents when installing
skirting.
Keep vents free from obstructions.
Allow for frost and ground
expansion. Do not apply skirting tight against the ground or
tight against the bottom of the unit.
Without expansion room, frozen
ground can heave the skirting against interior panels, causing
wall to buckle.
8. Clean or change furnace filters as
recommended by manufacturer. Collected dust can be pulled into
the motor, causing it to overheat.
Some filters can be cleaned with a
vacuum cleaner; some should be washed in a detergent solution;
and others require replacement.
Follow manufacturer's instructions
for cleaning, oiling and replacing parts.
9. During the summer months when the
heater is not used, keep the fuel tank full to prevent
condensation and rusting.
Use only No. 1 fuel oil or kerosene
in the outside fuel tank.
No. 2 fuel oil can be used in
underground tanks.
Never add gasoline or naptha to the
fuel oil.
(continued next page) Winterizing Mobile Homes
(continued)
10. If the mobile home is not positioned on
concrete pads, frozen ground may cause it to heave or
rise. This could make the doors stick. To correct this,
turn the jack handle on the front hitch, raising the front
as needed. Reverse the jack handle when the ground thaws
in the spring and the unit settles again.
11. During sub-freezing temperatures give
extra protection to water systems, especially if the unit
is not set on a permanent sub-surface heated basement.
Skirting will help reduce some
possibility of freezing damage, but will probably not eliminate
the problem.
On most modern units, pipes
leading from the underground pipe connection to the faucets are
protected within the floor system. You will need to protect
only the exposed pipes.
Use electric heat tape equipped with
a thermostat. This material is available at most hardware or
plumbing stores.
Tapes with built-in thermostats at
the cord end are more easily accessible.
Tape the thermostat securely to the
pipe where it leaves the floor of the unit. Be sure the
thermostat is held firmly against the pipe for accurate
temperature sensing and correct operation of the tape. Wrap the
heat tape in spirals down
the pipe, keeping it snug against the pipe. In general, three
turns per foot of pipe (a spacing of about 4 inches between
spirals) is adequate.
Apply friction tape at 12- to 16-inch
intervals to hold the heat tape in place.
Wrap heat tape over the full length
of the water pipe from the floor to below frost level. The heat
tape should not touch itself at any point because hot spots
could develop, causing failure of the tape.
Place insulation around the pipe to
save electricity. Inch-thick, pre-foamed pipe insulation with a
waterproof coating is recommended. Tape all joints with a
waterproof tape or seal them with adhesive. Be sure the
thermostat is also covered with insulation.
Plug the heat tape cord into an
electrical outlet when cold weather arrives.
12. Freezing problems sometimes occur in
mobile home drainage systems, especially when drain pipes
below the floor are installed with very little slope. To
help prevent damage from freezing:
Fix leaky faucets. When water
flow in drain pipes is very slow (as from a dripping faucet) the
water in the pipeline may freeze. This is especially true if
faucets drip overnight.
(continued next page) Winterizing Mobile Homes
(continued)
Check toilet tanks. Water running
or dripping in the toilet tank could cause sewer lines to
freeze.
Install electric heating tape on the
drain line. Drain pipes are less susceptible to freezing than
pipes in a potable water system, so a single strand of heat tape
taped to the bottom of the drain line usually will prevent
freezing problems. Install insulation over the heat tape.
Hold the eave in place with friction tape at 12-inch intervals.
Be sure the thermostat is held securely to the pipe and is
covered with insulation. Use preformed pipe insulation with a
waterproof cover. Tape all joints in the insulation with
waterproof tape.
Notes:
Winterizing Residential Buildings
When winterizing your house, check each of the following items.
Repair as necessary.
Roof
1. Check for broken, damaged or loose
shingles; small holes; and loose nails.
2. Check flashing around all dormers, vent
pipes, chimneys and any other projections where the roof
covering meets an adjoining surface.
Gutters and downspouts
1. Clean out leaves, dirt and debris.
2. Paint any rusty gutters.
3. Check supports.
Exterior
1. Repair cracks in stucco or masonry
walls.
2. Spot repair and paint any defective areas
to prevent damage from freezing and thawing.
Windows and doors
1. Check weather-stripping around
windows, doors and between foundation and siding. Replace where
needed.
2. Check metal weather-stripping for dents,
bends, breaks, loss of tension or other damage that could make
it less effective.
3. Repair and paint storm windows if
necessary. Heating system
1. Have a qualified serviceman clean and
check your furnace, replacing necessary parts. Furnace check
should include:
Fan belts check for proper
tension, cracks or wear.
Motors and bearings oil units
equipped with oil parts.
Filters clean or install new filters.
Fiberglass filters will need to be replaced because they lose
their effectiveness if cleaned and re-used.
Hot and cold air registers vacuum
if necessary.
Humidifier (if part of furnace) remove scale, lime deposits and
corrosion. Check float valve and evaporator plate.
2. Remove air conditioner for winter
storage. Cover with dust-proof cover. If air conditioner is
left in the window, install a weather proof cover and seal the
space around the unit.Driveways and sidewalks
1. Clean and repair cracks, fissures and
joints in concrete surfaces.
2. Upgrade gravel driveways.
3. Repair cracks or fissures in asphalt
drives. Seal with asphalt topcoating.
Notes:
Preparations to Reduce Heat Loss from Buildings
1. Install overhead and sidewall insulation.
Adequate insulation is one of the
most important factors in reducing heat loss and will increase
the comfort of your home in both summer and winter.
Under most conditions you need the
equivalent of 6 inches of fiberglass thermal insulation over
your top floor ceiling; 3« or 4 inches of sidewall insulation is also recommended.
2. Weatherstrip and caulk around all joints
and frames of windows and doors.
3. Install storm windows and doors or
insulating glass. Storm windows can result in a 10 to 20
percent reduction in heating costs. If buying storm windows is
not practical (as when renting), tape clear plastic to the
window frame.
4. Clean and change furnace filters
regularly. Have furnaces checked and cleaned by a qualified
repairman once a year. Clean and replace air filters when they
become loaded with dust or lint.
5. Close window draperies at night.
Regular draperies reduce heat loss slightly; insulated draperies
cut down
heat loss even more.
6. Seal as tightly as possible any openings
which may permit cold air leakage from the attic.
Leakage is likely to occur around
attic stairway doors, pulldown stairways, electric light
fixtures, ceiling fans, air ducts and plumbing vents or pipes.
Air leakage from the attic not only
increases heat loss but also increases the possibility of
moisture condensation in the attic. Condensation can wet
insulation and building materials, eventually causing structural
damage and reducing the effectiveness of the insulation.
7. If your basement is heated, close off
upper wall construction that is open to the attic. However, be
sure to provide exterior vents into the wall cavity.
8. Repair leaking hot water faucets. Leaky
faucets waste both heat and water.
9. Close fireplace dampers when they are
not in use. This will keep heated air from escaping up the
chimney.
Notes:
What To Do During a Home Power Failure
During severe winter storms, your home heating system could be
inoperative for as long as several days. To minimize discomfort and
possible health problems during this time, take the following steps:
1. Conserve body heat.
2. Put on extra clothing. If cold is severe,
your bed may be the warmest place.
Extra blankets and coverings will
trap body heat. This is a good way to keep children warm.
Farm families might consider taking
refuge in the relative warmth of the livestock barn.
3. Find or improvise an alternative heat
source. You may have alternative heating resources around your
home. Possibilities include:
Fireplace
Wood, coal, gas or oil stove or
spaceheater
Catalytic camp stove
Electric or gas oven and surface
units
Portable electric heater
Gas-fired hot water heater
4. Provide fuel. Common fuel materials
include:
Furnace coal
Canned heat Furnace oil
Wood chips
Campstove fuel
Alcohol
Newspapers, magazines
Charcoal lighter fluid
Kerosene, gasoline
Straw
Firewood
Corncobs
You can burn coal in a fireplace or
stove if you make a grate to hold it, allowing air to circulate
underneath. "Hardware cloth" screening placed on a standard
wood grate will keep coal from falling through.
Tightly rolled newspapers or
magazines can be used for paper "logs." Before burning the
"logs," stack them properly to allow for air circulation.
Consider burning wood, including
lumber or furniture, if the situation becomes critical.
CAUTION: Do not store fuels in
the heated area because of fire danger, especially if you have
highly combustible materials such as gasoline or kerosene.
(continued next page)
What To Do During A Home Power Failure
(continued)
5. Select a room to be heated. To increase
efficiency of available heat, close off all rooms except the one
to be heated. When selecting a room or area to be heated,
consider the following:
If using a vented stove or space
heater, select a room with a stove or chimney flue.
Confine emergency heat to a small
area.
Try to select a room on the "warm"
side of the house, away from prevailing winds. Avoid rooms with
large windows or uninsulated walls. Interior bathrooms probably
have the lowest air leakage and heat loss. Your basement may be
a warm place in cold weather because the earth acts as
insulation and minimizes heat loss.
Isolate the room from the rest of
the house by keeping doors closed, hanging bedding or heavy
drapes over entry ways, or by erecting temporary partitions of
cardboard or plywood.
Hang drapes, bedding or shower
curtains over doors and windows, especially at night.
6. Provide adequate safety measures.
Safety is of prime importance in a heating emergency. Your
chances of freezing to death in your home are small. Fire,
asphyxiation from lack of oxygen, or carbon monoxide poisoning
are much greater dangers unless you take adequate safety
precautions. Do not burn anything larger than
candles inside your home without providing adequate ventilation
to the outside.
Any type of heater (except electric)
should be vented. Connect the stove pipe to a chimney flue if
at all possible. (Many older homes have capped pipe thimbles in
rooms once heated by stoves.) Or hook up your stove to the flue
entrance of the nonfunctioning furnace pipe (after removing the
pipe).
Sometimes a stovepipe can be
extended through a window if no other alternative exists.
Replace the window glass with a metal sheet, and run the
temporary stovepipe through the metal.
Do not run emergency stovepiping
close to flammable materials. Be particularly careful with
window-mounted flues. The wood sash, curtains and shades are
especially flammable.
If you use a catalytic or unvented
heater, provide plenty of ventilation in the room. Whenever the
device is in use, cross ventilate by opening a window an inch on
each side of the room. It is better to let in some cold air
than to run the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.
Do not burn outdoor barbecue
materials such as charcoal briquets inside even in a fireplace.
(continued next page)
What To Do During A Home Power Failure
(continued)
Do not try to use bottled gas in
natural gas appliances unless you have converted the appliances
for such use. Also, flues and piping suitable for gas burning
appliances may be unsafe for use with higher temperature oil,
coal or wood smoke. Have one person as a firewatch
whenever alternative heat sources are used. One person should
stay awake to watch for fire and to make sure ventilation is
adequate. If the firewatch feels drowsy, it may be a sign of
inadequate ventilation.
Keep fire fighting materials on
hand.
Notes:
Responses to Other Heat Loss Problems
During a power failure, keeping warm will be a major problem.
However, several other related heat loss problems also should be
considered.
1. If it seems likely that the heat will be off
for several hours in below freezing temperatures, protect
exposed plumbing.
Drain all pipes (including hot water
heating pipes) in any rooms where temperature falls below 40øF.
You may need to drain only portions of your system.
Drain the sink, tub and shower
traps, toilet tanks and bowls, hot water heater, dish and
clothes washers, water pumps and furnace boiler.
2. If your water pump is electrically
powered, a power outage could restrict your water use.
Save as much water as possible
when you drain the system.
Store the water in closed or covered
containers, preferably where it will not freeze.
You may use water from your hot
water heater and toilet tanks (not the bowls) for drinking and
household use. Water from the heating system will be unfit for
drinking or other household use. 3. Keep on hand a good supply
of candles,
matches and at least one kerosene or gas lantern with ample
fuel. Also have a dependable flashlight with spare bulbs and
batteries.
4. If your water supply is shut off,
sanitation will become a problem.
Flush the toilet only often enough to
prevent clogging. (Disconnect the chain or lever attached to
the toilet handle to prevent children from flushing.)
Provide covered containers for
disposing of toilet paper. A portable camper's toilet might be
useful.
5. Camp stoves or fireplaces may be used
for cook stoves in an emergency.
Meal-in-a-can foods such as stews,
soups, canned meats, beans or spaghetti require little heat for
cooking, and some can be eaten without cooling.
Cereals, breads, dried meats and
cheese are other "no cook" possibilities. Freeze-dried meals
used by campers and backpackers can be prepared with a minimum
of heat.
Notes:
Protecting Your Hot Water System During
A Winter Storm Power Failure
1. If you think the heat will be off several
hours or more during below freezing temperatures, you will need
to keep exposed heating pipes from freezing. This can be done
by circulating water through the pipes or adding antifreeze to
the system.
2. If electrical power is available, keep the
circulator pump going. Moving water does not freeze readily.
However, if the room temperature drops to below 40øF, you probably
should begin to drain the pipes.
3. Most hot water heating systems are not
easily drained. Pipes may have to be disconnected to drain low
points. Open the vents on radiators to release air so pipes can
drain. 4. Consult a heating contractor about
adding antifreeze to your system.
Antifreeze is poisonous and must
not be allowed to get into the drinking water system. Make sure
the house water system and the boiler water system are not
connected.
Use only antifreeze containing
ethylene glycol. Do not use antifreeze containing methanol.
(Methanol vaporizes readily when heated, and could cause
excessive pressure in the system.)
Make sure the antifreeze does not
contain leak-stopping additives. These may foul pumps, valves,
air vents and other parts.
Notes:
Protecting Your Plumbing System During
A Winter Storm Power Failure
1. Shut off the water at the main valve, or
turn off the well pump if it is in the house.
2. Drain the pressure tank.
3. Open all faucets until they drain
completely! Some valves will open only when there is water
pressure. If so, remove the valve from the faucet.
4. Drain the entire system by disconnecting
pipe unions or joints as close to the main valve as possible.
You may use compressed air to blow water from pipes. 5.
Insulate undrainable pipes around their
main valves. Use newspaper, blankets or housing insulation.
6. Drain toilet flush tanks and spray hoses.
7. Disconnect the water softening unit so
water can drain from the hard and soft water pipes and from the
controls. Lay the softener tank on its side to drain as much
water as possible. Also drain controls and tubing on brine
(salt) tank. A brine tank itself will not be harmed by
freezing.
Notes:
Protecting Your Sewage System During
A Winter Storm Power Failure
1. Empty all drain traps by carefully
removing drain plugs or by disconnecting traps.
2. Blow out inaccessible traps with
compressed air or add ethylene-glycol base antifreeze in an
amount equal to the water in the trap (1 pint to 1 quart is
sufficient, depending on the size of the trap). 3. Check
kitchen sinks, bathroom sinks,
bathtub drains, toilets, washtubs, showers, floor drains and
sump pumps.
Protecting Appliances During
A Winter Storm Power Failure
1. Disconnect the electric power or shut off
the fuel to all water-using units.
2. Shut off the water supply and disconnect
the hoses if possible.
3. Drain all water-using appliances. 4. Check the water heater,
humidifiers,
ice-making unit of the refrigerator, washing machine and the
dishwasher. Do not put antifreeze in these appliances. Close
valves to the furnace, water heater and dryer.
Notes:
Preventing Ice Dams on Eaves
Ice dams along eaves may cause considerable damage to the roof and
inside walls of a house. Poorly insulated roofs are the chief cause
of ice build-up on eaves. Ice forms when the snow melts off a warm
roof, runs down to the eave line, and refreezes there. Ice in the
eave trough prevents water from running off freely. If water backs
up high enough, it may seep under shingles and down into the house.
Sometimes it leaks through plaster walls and ceiling.
Ice dams are usually a problem only on cold days when the roof is
warmer than the eave overhang. On warm days the snow melts at the
same rate on the eaves and water runs off freely.
To prevent ice dams:
1. Insulate between the top floor ceiling and
the attic, or along the underside of the eaves if the attic is
used as living space. Insulation also will help cut fuel
bills. 2. Ventilate the attic through windows and
louvers when insulation is added to the attic floor. This will
help reduce moisture condensation in the attic.
3. Use electric heating cables along the
eaves if insulation or ventilation is not possible.
Cables can be strung out along the
edge of eaves. When plugged in, they will heat the area, melt
any ice already formed and prevent further freezing when water
drips off the roof.
Be sure cables are approved for the
intended use by the Underwriters Laboratory. Check with your
electrician for correct installation.
4. Do not use salt to melt snow or ice from
roof. Salt will rust nails, damage gutters and downspouts, and
ruin next year's lawn.
Notes:
Responses to Take When Caught Outdoors
During A Winter Storm
Hunters, sportsmen or snowmobile riders occasionally become lost or
injured in severe winter weather. Be sure someone knows where you
are going and when you plan to return. Don't travel alone. Dress
properly. If you do become stranded:
1. Remain calm. Don't rush to get out
immediately. You can easily become disoriented and lose your
way during a snowstorm.
2. Build a shelter for the night, preferably
on the leeward side of brush or timber.
In timber country a lean-to gives
good protection. Construct one by using two "Y" poles for
corners and a sturdy cross shaft.
Place poles from cross shaft to the
ground and cover with evergreen boughs.
In open country where snow is
shallow and the temperature isn't too cold, a snow trench can
provide adequate shelter.
"Snow caves" (in snow at least 4
feet deep) provide the warmest shelter during cold weather. Dig
your cave on the leeward side of a
drift. Be sure that you don't locate
the opening under an overhanging drift or in a possible
avalanche path.
Cover the bottom of your shelter
with boughs, grass or sticks if they are available. Soft,
springy boughs are good for a mattress.
3. Gather a fuel supply that will last
throughout the night.
Gather fuel while it is still daylight.
Build a fire approximately 2 feet
from the shelter, using a log or piled rocks to reflect the
heat. When daylight comes again, be prepared to increase the
size of the fire. Try to produce as much smoke as possible to
signal rescue parties.
5. Remain at your shelter area unless you
are positive that you can walk out safely. It is better to wait
for rescue than to become disoriented and further lost.
In some areas snowmobile clubs
and other groups are organized for rescue operations.
Notes:
Responses If Trapped By a Blizzard
While Traveling
1. Avoid overexertion and overexposure.
Strenuous acts such as pushing your car or shoveling snow can
cause a heart attack in cold weather conditions.
2. Stay in your car where you are sheltered
and more likely to be found. You can become quickly disoriented
when trying to walk around in blowing snow.
3. Stay calm.
4. Keep fresh air in your car.
Freezing wet and wind-driven snow
can seal the passenger compartment and suffocate you.
Keep the downwind window open
about an inch when you run the motor and heater. Be sure snow
has not blocked the exhaust pipe.
5. Exercise from time to time by clapping
hands and moving arms and legs vigorously. Don't stay in one
position long. 6. Keep the dome light on at night to make
the car visible to snow plows or rescue crews.
7. Have one person keep watch. Don't
allow everyone in the car to sleep at once.
8. In a snowstorm, automobile parts can
sometimes be used for emergency tools:
A hubcap or sun visor can be used
as a shovel.
Seat covers can serve as blankets.
Floor mats will help shut out wind
and cold. Place them against windows on the upwind side to help
reduce drafts.
Engine oil burned in a hub cap
creates a smoke signal visible for miles. To light the oil,
prime with a little gasoline or use paper for starter fuel.
Signal with the horn. An
automobile horn can be heard as far as a mile downwind.
Notes:
Special Considerations for Agricultural Producers
In addition to the precautions and responses covered in the previous
pages, the agricultural producer will want to consider the following
measures.
Preparing for a Winter Storm
1. Be aware of winter storm terminology.
Stockman advisories are issued with combinations of cold, wet
and windy weather, specifically, cold rain and/or snow with
temperatures of 45øF or colder and winds of 25 miles per hour or higher.
If the temperatures are in the mid-30s or lower the wind speed criteria
are lowered to 15 miles per hour.
2. Stockmen also should consider the effect
of the wind chill factor on livestock.
Notes:
Providing Windbreaks for Livestock Protection
1. Simple shelters, sheds or windbreaks are
necessary to protect livestock from winter storms.
Usually, severe cold alone will not
affect the performance of animals on full feed. Wind, however,
can be a serious stress factor. A strong wind has about the
same effect on animals as exposure to a sudden drop in
temperature.
In general, a 20 mph wind is
approximately equivalent to a 30øF drop in temperature. Under
extreme conditions, simple wind and snow protection devices
will not be 100 percent effective.
2. Consider wind and snow as a joint
problem when deciding the kinds of livestock protection you
need.
3. Simple windbreaks, shelters or sheds are
essential for livestock protection from wind and snow.
4. The effectiveness of a windbreak
depends on its height and density. Windbreaks may be natural
(trees) or manmade (fences).
5. Cottonwood or poplar trees are
relatively ineffective as windbreaks because of their low branch
density. Supplement these trees with thick-growing trees such
as red pines, or with fences.
6. Snow fences can be good substitutes for
tree windbreaks which take time to grow and are not practical
under all conditions.
7. Porous fences of 80 percent density offer
the best wind protection. 8. Snow will drift through a porous
fence.
A solid fence keeps most of the snow outside a yard and provides
the best snow barrier, but may direct snow to other parts of the
farmstead. Porous fences can give good snow control if you
locate the fences to allow for the resulting drifts.
9. Swirling and relocation of snow within a
farmstead is often the main cause of drifting problems.
10. Shallow open-front sheds provide
excellent shelters for livestock. Such shelters should
have slot openings along the eaves on the back side of the
shelter. These openings will provide ventilation and
prevent snow from swirling into the front of the shed.
Plan slot size according to building
width.
You should have a 1- to 2-inch
opening per 10 feet of building width. Ridge ventilators also
are recommended.
11. Do not attach windbreak fences directly
to the front corner of an open-front shed. Instead, use a
swirl chamber arrangement.
Attach a separate short fence to the
building.
Start the longer fence behind it and
away from the building.
12. Divide long open-front sheds into 20- to
40-foot sections to reduce drafts and possible snow
build-ups.
13. Locate shelters so that adjacent buildings
will not deflect wind and snow into a shed.
Notes:
Creating Windbreaks On Your Property
1. On some farms a windbreak may be
necessary for protection from strong winds and blowing snow. A
windbreak will:
Protect livestock and reduce winter
feed requirements.
Help protect homes and reduce fuel
use.
Help eliminate snow drifting around
farmstead buildings and work areas.
2. Plan the windbreak before you plant. In
designing the windbreak you should consider size and location,
tree species, tree spacing and soil preparation.
3. To give the best protection from wind
and snow a windbreak should be:
Located to the northwest of the
farmstead
L-, U- or E-shaped, with the ends
extending about 50 feet beyond each corner of the area to be
protected
At least 50 feet and preferably 100
feet from farm buildings and feedlots on level land (If your
land slopes steeply to the north or west, plant trees closer to
the farmstead, but no closer than 60 feet from the main
buildings or drives.)
4. Avoid planting windbreaks across old
feedlots, near manure pits or across barnyard drainage ways.
Many trees, especially evergreens, are susceptible to "nitrogen
burning." If any section of the windbreak is likely to be
saturated by barnyard seepage, plan to
construct a ditch or use drainage tile to carry the seepage away
from trees.
5. Do not plant windbreaks where they
could cause visibility hazards at intersections.
6. If it is necessary to cross fields,
driveways or large ditches with a windbreak planting, try to
make the crossing at oblique angles. This will prevent direct
wind tunnels through the planting.
7. Windbreaks should contain several tree
species.
A mixture of species offers
protection against disease, insects and weather damage, and
takes advantage of differences in growth rates.
Both deciduous and evergreen
species should be included, but all trees must have adequate
space.
Select low, dense growing shrubs
for outside rows. Plant medium sized trees next, and tall
growing trees in center rows.
Your choice of species will depend
on your needs, climate and type of soil. Contact your county
Extension agent for information about appropriate windbreak
species for your area.
8. Sod, loosely powdered soil or field soil
is best for tree planting. In late summer or early fall, plow
heavy soil and soil covered with sod. If the soil has been
deeply plowed and is relatively loose, roll or cultipack it.
(continued next page)
Creating Windbreaks On Your Property
(continued)
During winter months cover light or
sandy soils with organic material such as well-rotted manure.
This will increase soil fertility and reduce the possibility of
erosion and moisture losses during winter and early spring.
In dry regions summer fallow the
land during the year prior to planting. Cultivate frequently
enough to prevent any weed or plant growth and to keep the soil
in suitable condition for absorbing moisture.
If the soil is sandy and subject to
blowing, plant a cultivated row crop such as corn instead of
summer fallowing.
Thoroughly disc and harrow the soil
just before planting.
9. Do not overcrowd trees. Trees must
have adequate space, especially when deciduous and evergreen
species are mixed.
Allow at least 20 feet between
deciduous and evergreen species.
A five-row planting is
recommended for the most efficient windbreak but if space is
limited use fewer rows rather than overcrowd trees.
Properly spaced trees will have
increased growth and vigor.
Stagger trees in adjacent rows to
offset wide spaces between young trees. Be sure to allow enough
space for
operating any necessary maintenance equipment.
10. Plant trees as soon as possible after
receiving them. If you must hold trees for a few days
before planting them, unpack them and heel them in until
they are to be planted.
Keep roots moist at all times during
planting.
Plant in rows according to
predetermined plan.
For specific planting instructions,
contact a local nursery or your county agricultural Extension
agent.
11. Provide protection and care for young
seedlings.
Protect trees permanently from
poultry and livestock.
Protect trees from rodents. Use
screen wire, tree wrap materials or commercial repellents.
Inspect trees periodically for
disease or insect damage.
To eliminate competition from
grass or weeds, cultivate until crowns of trees have grown
together and shade the ground, preventing growth of competitive
vegetation.
Be sure cultivation is shallow to
avoid damaging the roots.
For fire protection cultivate a strip
on all sides of the windbreak.
Notes:
Protecting Livestock During Winter Storms
Large numbers of livestock may be killed in winter storms. Wind
coupled with severe or prolonged cold weather causes additional
stress on livestock, increasing their need for food, water and
shelter. To minimize livestock loss during winter storms, stockmen
should:
1. Move stock, especially the young, into
sheltered areas.
Windbreaks, properly oriented and
laid out, or timber-covered lowlands are better protection for
range cattle than most shed-type shelters which may overcrowd
and overheat cattle, causing subsequent respiratory disorders.
Never close indoor shelters tightly
because stock can suffocate from lack of oxygen.
Extremities that become wet or are
normally wet are particularly subject to frostbite and freezing
during sub-zero weather. The loss of ears or tails may be of
little economic significance, but damage to male reproductive
organs can impair the animals' fertility or ability to breed.
2. During severe or prolonged cold
weather, animals need extra feed to provide body heat and to
maintain production weight gains.
A grain ration that maintains an
animal during the summer may not carry it through the stress of
prolonged or severe cold. Haul extra grain to feeding areas
before the storm arrives.
If the storm lasts for more than
over 48 hours, emergency feeding methods may be required.
Pelleted cake or cake concentrates make good emergency feed.
Mechanized feeders may be
inoperable during power failures unless you have a source of
emergency power.
3. Use heaters in water tanks to provide
livestock with enough water. Cattle cannot lick enough snow to
satisfy their water requirements.
Notes:
Caring for Livestock After a Blizzard
1. Following a blizzard, water will be a
crucial need for livestock. Cattle will not be able to satisfy
all of their water requirements by eating snow.
In pastures with severe drifting,
water in shallow streams may be absorbed by snow in the stream
bed. Very little, if any, running water may be available for
several days. You may need to haul water to cattle. If water
is limited, keep cattle off
salt. Cattle which have been away from feed and water for
several days may overeat salt, causing salt poisoning.
2. When stock cannot be reached by roads,
use planes, helicopters or snowmobiles to provide emergency
rations.
Feeding Cattle After a Blizzard
1. Feedlot cattle that have gone through a
severe storm or stress period should be put back on feed
carefully.
Change the ration gradually from a
low to a high proportion of concentrate. Watch your herd
carefully for several weeks following prolonged exposure.
Isolate cattle showing signs of
scouring or labored breathing. Keep these animals in a dry,
draft-free place and contact a veterinarian.
2. Cattle which have not been fed for
several days or are unaccustomed to grain should be limited to 2
to 4 pounds per head of whole grain in one feeding, or a total
of 5 pounds per head the first day.
Increase the amount of feed by 2
lb/head/day for large cows. Make any additional increases
slowly.
3. Add hay, even poor quality roughage, to
the ration as soon as possible. Feeding 3 pounds per head of
hay daily will greatly reduce the possibility of founder (acute
indigestion). Cattle can use hay to better
advantage than grains when they must be fed on the ground. Even
moisture-saturated hay can be used until suitable feed is
available. Do not use mildewed hay.
4. Grind whole grains to increase their
value to cattle. Half of some whole grains may pass through
cattle undigested.
5. Watch cattle for signs of founder.
Founder is caused by cattle eating
large amounts of green corn or other easily fermentable feeds to
which they are unaccustomed.
Founder occurs suddenly. Body
temperature is usually normal. Symptoms include poor appetite
and depression, followed by colic and diarrhea.
Animals may die in a few days.
Some survivors may develop acute lameness. Prompt treatment can
reduce deaths, crippling and recurring digestive disturbances.
Feeding Sheep After a Blizzard
1. If sheep, especially pregnant ewes, are
withheld from feed heavy losses may occur.
2. Ewes in good flesh late in pregnancy
may incur pregnancy disease if they are without feed for even a
short time. Early symptoms of pregnancy disease include
listlessness and depression. As intoxication advances, ewes
develop a wobbly gait, become uncoordinated and die. 3. Sheep
can eat 1 to 3 pounds of whole
grain per day. A small amount of roughage will prevent
digestive trouble. Drying feed before giving it to sheep can
reduce the possibility of digestive problems.
Feeding Horses After a Blizzard
1. Horses fed a maintenance ration
adequate for summer conditions may need additional energy in
their winter feed. 2. They can tolerate reduced rations for a
few weeks unless they are mares nursing foals.
Feeding Swine After a Blizzard
1. Swine present few problems during
periods of feed shortage.
If you are substituting other feed,
such as dairy feed, for regular swine feed, be sure swine have
adequate fresh water available at all times. The salt content
of cattle feed will
produce salt poisoning in swine unless they have constant access
to water.
Notes:
Protecting Poultry and Livestock During
a Winter Storm Power Failure
1. Ventilate shelter. Do not close buildings
tight to conserve heat because animals could suffocate from lack
of oxygen. Because oxygen eventually will be used up in
mechanically ventilated production facilities, clear ice and
snow from all vents. Then open vents to facilitate natural air
flow.
2. Poultry facilities should be equipped
with knock-out panels for emergency ventilation.
3. In dairy facilities, open door or turn
cows outside.
4. Provide water. All animals, especially
cattle, need plenty of water during cold weather. It may be
possible to drive your water pump with a small gasoline engine
and a belt. Otherwise, you will need to haul water.
If you have an outside source of
water, cattle can be turned out to it. Be sure to place sand or
other gritty
material on icy feedlots to provide good footing.
Whatever the source of water,
watch that it remains unfrozen so animals can drink it. If no
water is available, dairymen can feed cows their own milk as a
last resort.
5. Provide heat. Use camp stoves and
heaters as emergency heat sources for brooders. Plan ahead to
have this equipment ready when needed.
6. Provide feed. Animals need extra
energy for body heat during severe or prolonged cold weather,
especially if they are outside without shelter. Mechanical
feeders will be inoperable during a power failure. Provide for
emergency feeding procedures. Pelleted cake or cake concentrate
may be used for emergency feed.
Notes:
Protecting Equipment During A Winter Storm Power
Failure
1. Unplug or turn off all electric equipment
to prevent damage when power is restored.
2. If you use portable space heaters for
supplemental heat, close off the fuel valve as soon as possible
after power is interrupted. On models not equipped with safety
shut-offs, and especially on some models with gravity feed fuel
systems, fuel continues to flow even when the burner is
inoperative. An explosion or fire can result when power is
restored.
Storing Milk and Cream During A
Winter Storm Power Failure
1. You can use the intake manifold on the
tractor engine as a source of vacuum to operate milkers that do
not have a magnetic pulsator.
2. Ask the dairy to pick up milk as soon as
possible.
3. Consider adding a standby power
generator to handle vital electric equipment on the dairy. 4.
Even if you are short of extra milk
storage facilities, do not store milk in stock tanks or other
containers such as bathtubs. Dairy plants may not accept milk
that has been stored in anything other than regular milk storage
containers. Check with your local dairy about policy regarding
emergency storage of milk and cream.
5. Check your tank for souring each time
you add milk to it if you are unable to cool your milk or have
it picked up. This check could mean the difference between
losing all or only part of your milk supply.
Notes:
Repairing Ice and Snow Damage to Shrubs and Trees
1. To prevent ice damage to trees or
shrubs, try to remove ice before winds cause major damage. Do
not try to break ice off branches. Connect a garden hose to the
hot water faucet to melt the ice. If branches have been badly
damaged, remove or repair them as suggested below.
2. Heavy accumulations of wet snow can
cause damage to trees and shrubs. Evergreens and weak-wooded
trees are more susceptible to snow damage than deciduous and
hard-wood trees.
Snow damage is more common to shrubs
than to trees because snow depth often equals or exceeds shrub
height. Evergreen shrubs are more easily damaged than deciduous
shrubs because there is more foliage surface for snow
accumulation.
To remove heavy snow accumulations:
Tap the branches lightly with a
broom soon after the snow falls or as it accumulates.
If snow has melted and refrozen, do
not use this procedure because you could break the branches.
To remove frozen snow, spray the
shrubs with a hose connected to the hot water faucet.
Shrubs also may be damaged when snow
from walks or drives is piled onto them, or when salt is used
for snow removal along drives, walks and streets. With a hose,
wash off shrubs that have been splashed with salt from streets.
Often snow damage to evergreens is not
apparent until the following spring as a broken branch will
retain its green color until warm weather.
3. Determine whether the tree can be
repaired, or if it should be removed completely. If the main
trunk is completely broken or if the tree is uprooted, it should
be removed. Most broken branches can be either repaired or
pruned. Some branches broken at a crotch can be lifted into
place and then bolted and cabled.
Remove broken branch to the
nearest branch or to the tree trunk. Never leave a ragged
stub.
Remove large branches with three
cuts. This will prevent splintering and peeling.
Make the first cut upward
from the bottom of the branch about 12 inches from the next
branch.
Cut about halfway through the
branch, or until the saw begins to pitch.
Make the second cut 5 or
6 inches further out, and continue cutting until the branch
falls.
With a third cut remove the
stub cleanly without peeling.
Treat wound.
Notes: Subject Index
4-Step Family Preparedness Plan. . . . . . . . . . . .7 Actions
During a Hurricane Situation . . . . . . . . 97 Adding New
Landscape Or Redesigning The
Yard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Additional Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 After a
Hazardous Materials Accident . . . . . . . . 93 After a Hazardous
Materials Incident . . . . . . . . 91 After a Power Outage . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 After an Earthquake. . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . 56 Animal Care After a Nuclear Accident . . . . .
. . .109 Basic Response After a Hurricane . . . . . . . . . . 98
Building Dikes To Prevent Minor Surface
Flooding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Caring
for Livestock After a Blizzard. . . . . . . .146 Checking
Flood-damaged Buildings . . . . . . . . . . 77 Cleaning and
Repairing Flooded Basements . . . . . . 79 Cleaning Flood-soiled
Blankets, Quilts,
Comforters, Linens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Cleaning
Flood-soiled Pillows and Mattresses . . . . .6
9
Cleaning Up After a Flood Setting Priorities . . . . .6
7
Controlling Insects After Floods . . . . . . . . . . 83
Controlling Rodents After Floods . . . . . . . . . . 82 Creating
Windbreaks On Your Property . . . . . . . .143 Crop Water
Requirements and Water Use
Efficiencies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Developing a Crop Water Management Plan. . . . . . . 45
Developing and Improving Vegetative Cover. . . . . . 48
Disinfecting Wells . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Disposing
of Animal Carcasses. . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Driving in Heavy
Ash Areas . . . . . . . . . . . . .121 Drought. . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Drought-Special Considerations for
Agricultural
Producers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 During a
Volcanic Eruption . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 During an
Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Earthquakes. . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Earthquakes-Special
Considerations for
Agricultural Producers . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Emotional
Recovery After a Disaster. . . . . . . . . 17 Evacuating . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Evacuation Procedures. . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Family Disaster Supply Kit . . . . . .
. . . . . . . .2 Feeding Cattle After a Blizzard. . . . . . . . .
. .146 Feeding Horses After a Blizzard. . . . . . . . . . .147
Feeding Sheep After a Blizzard . . . . . . . . . . .147 Feeding
Swine After a Blizzard . . . . . . . . . . .147 Finding and
Repairing Leaks in Roofs . . . . . . . . 81 Fire Safety and
Prevention . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Flooded Food Recovery. .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Flooded Gardens. . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . 76 Floods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . 62 Floods-Special Considerations for Agricultural
Producers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Food
Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Food Safety
After a Fire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 General Family
Preparedness. . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 Hazardous Materials
Accidents. . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Hazardous Materials-Special
Considerations for
Ag Producers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Helping
Children Cope After a Disaster . . . . . . . 18 How and Where
Hurricanes Form. . . . . . . . . . . . 94 How Earthquakes are
Measured . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 How to Prepare for a
Hurricane . . . . . . . . . . . 96 How to Prepare for a Tornado .
. . . . . . . . . . .113 Hurricanes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . 95 Hurricanes-Special Considerations for
Agricultural Producers . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Inspecting Buildings for Hidden Wind Damage. . . . .116
Installing a Low-Flow Showerhead . . . . . . . . . . 34
Installing Shower Flow Restrictors . . . . . . . . . 34
Installing Toilet Dams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Insurance
and Resources After a Disaster . . . . . . 24 Landscape Water
Conservation . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Maintaining Vegetative
Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Making Repairs To Toilets To
Stop Water Loss . . . . 36 Managing Salinity. . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . 50 Marketing Animals and Products . . . . . . . . .
. .111 Monitoring Fish and Marine Life. . . . . . . . . . .111
Precautions Against Power Outages. . . . . . . . . . 20
Preparations to Reduce Heat Loss from
Buildings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Preparing
Children for Disaster. . . . . . . . . . . 10 Preparing For a
Flood or Flash Flood on Your
Farm or Ranch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Preparing
for a Nuclear Power Plant Accident . . . .105 Preparing for a
Volcanic Eruption. . . . . . . . . .119 Preparing for a Winter
Storm . . . . . . . . . . . .141 Preparing for an Earthquake. . .
. . . . . . . . . . 53 Preparing for Evacuation . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . 13 Preparing for Floods and Flash Floods. . . . . . . .
63 Preparing for Hazardous Materials Accidents in
the Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Preparing
for Winter Storms. . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Preparing to
Evacuate Your Farm. . . . . . . . . . . 85 Preventing Ice Dams on
Eaves . . . . . . . . . . . .138 Preventing Leaks in Basements. .
. . . . . . . . . . 65 Protecting Appliances-Winter Storm Power
Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Protecting Equipment During A Winter Storm
Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149
Protecting Livestock During a Flood. . . . . . . . . 84
Protecting Livestock During Winter Storms. . . . . .145
Protecting Poultry & Livestock-Winter Storm
Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
Protecting Your Hot Water System-Winter
Storm Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . .135
Protecting Your Plumbing System-Winter
Storm Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . .
.136 Protecting Your Sewage System-Winter
Storm
Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Providing
Windbreaks for Livestock Protection. . . .142 Radiation Types. .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 Radiological Accidents . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . .103 Radiological Accidents-Special
Considerations
for Ag Producers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Reacting
to a Hazardous Spill in Your Home . . . . . .9
2
Reading a Water Meter To Measure Leaks . . . . . . . 34
Recovering Exposed Fruits, Vegetables and
Soils. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Recovering Losses and Expenses from a
Nuclear Accident . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107
Recovering Small Fruits. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 Repairing
Faucet Leaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Repairing Ice and
Snow Damage to Shrubs and
Trees. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
Residential Fires. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Responses
After a Tornado. . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 Responses If
Trapped By a Blizzard While
Traveling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140 Responses
if You are Outside During an
Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Responses
Inside Buildings During an
Earthquake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Responses
to Other Heat Loss Problems. . . . . . . .134 Responses When
Caught Outdoors-Winter
Storm. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139 Restoring
Electrical Service After a Flood . . . . . 74 Restoring Flooded
Water Systems. . . . . . . . . . . 26 Returning Home After the
Disaster. . . . . . . . . . 15 Safety of Home Gardens After a
Nuclear
Accident . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 Safety
Rules for Farm Clean-up . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Salvaging Sewing
Machines and Sergers. . . . . . . . 68 Special Considerations for
Agricultural
Producers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 Special
Post-Disaster Considerations . . . . . . . . 26 Special
Precautions for Mobile Home Dwellers . . . .114 Special
Preparations for People with
Disabilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Special
Preparations for the Hearing Impaired. . . . .1
1
Special Preparations for the Visually Impaired . . . 11 Storing
Milk and Cream During A Winter
Storm Power Failure. . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 The Role
of Government After a Disaster. . . . . . . 16 Tornado and Wind
Related Contamination . . . . . . . 21 Tornadoes. . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . .112 Tornadoes-Special Considerations for
Agricultural Producers . . . . . . . . . . . .117 Turf
Grass Recovery After a Storm Surge. . . . . . . 99 Volcanic
Eruptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Water Conservation
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Water Conservation At Home .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Water Saving Steps When Remodeling or
Replacing Fixtures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Watering
Lawns and Plants During a Drought . . . . . .4
4
What to Do After a Fire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 What To
Do During a Home Power Failure . . . . . . . 13
1
What to Do During a Tornado Warning. . . . . . . . .115 What to
Do If a Hazardous Materials Accident
Occurs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90, 93 What to
Do in a Nuclear Power Plant
Emergency. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106, 108 What to
Do in Case of a Fire . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 When Disaster
Strikes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Why Hurricanes are a
Risk to People. . . . . . . . . 95 Why Preparedness?. . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . .1 Winter Storms. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . .122 Winter Storms-Special Considerations for
Travelers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
Winterizing Mobile Homes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
Winterizing Residential Buildings. . . . . . . . . .129
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