ANR-372 FAIRY RING
ANR-372, Revised Oct 2001. Austin
Hagan, Extension Plant Pathologist, Professor, Entomology and Plant Pathology, Auburn
University
FairyRing
Control on Warm Season Turfgrasses |
Several mushroom- or puffball-producing
soil fungi are known to cause fairy ring on both cool and warm
season turfgrasses. Although fairy ring damage is rarely serious,
the disease is often unsightly, especially on a well-managed lawn,
green, or fairway.
The typical ring patterns will develop over a wide range of
soil types, fertility levels, and climatic conditions. Poorly
maintained, drought-stressed turf on light, sandy soils often
suffers most. Heavily thatched lawns are particularly susceptible
to injury by fairy ring.
Symptoms
Dark green circles, arcs, or rings of thick, fast-growing grass
develop anytime from green-up in the spring until the first hard
frost in the fall. The bands of lush grass are usually several
inches in diameter.
A zone of dead grass may appear inside the outer ring of lush
grass. The zone of dead or declining turf is often wider on turf
suffering from drought, low fertility, or both. At times, a second
lush band of grass may develop inside the ring of dead grass.
The ring pattern of lush and dead grass may be seen almost year-round,
especially on cool season turfgrasses.
The size of the rings often increases slowly during the summer.
Rings on lawns, greens, and fairways usually range from 3 to 5
feet in diameter although rings up to 20 feet in diameter are
sometimes seen. After heavy rains, mushrooms or puffballs often
develop within the zone of lush grass, primarily in late summer
to early fall. Sometimes, the mushrooms or puffballs form in areas
where there is little evidence of any ring pattern.
Contact with a curb, sidewalk, planting bed, or other soil
barrier will disrupt the ring pattern. When two or more rings
meet, they may continue to increase in size or disappear. Elaborate
serpentine patterns often appear on greens when several fairy
rings grow together. Rings may suddenly disappear and reappear
years later, often larger in size.
Fairy rings may be catagorized according to symptoms. The most
damaging, which has zones of both stimulated and dead grass with
mushrooms or puffballs, is the Type 1 fairy ring (Figure 1). A
Type 2 fairy ring has mushrooms or puffballs, but only the single
zone of stimulated turf (Figure 2). Circles of mushrooms or puffballs
with no associated areas of fast-growing or dead grass are characteristic
of a Type 3 fairy ring (Figure 3).
 |
|
Figure 1. Type 1 fairy ring on a bermudagrass green |
| |
|
|
 |
|
Figure 2. Type 2 fairy ring with ring of lush grass |
| |
|
|
 |
|
Figure 3.
Circle of mushrooms in a Type 3 fairy ring |
Cause
Approximately 50 species of fungi are known to form fairy rings
in turf, with Marasmius oreades, Agricus campestris, Lycoperdon
spp., and Scleroderms spp. being the most common. These
fungi decompose organic debris in the soil and thatch. Nitrogen
that is released during this decomposition is responsible for
rapid turf growth within the stimulated zone.
The white, waxy mycelia of some fairy ring fungi may penetrate
the soil to a depth of 6 inches or more and impede the movement
of water through the soil profile. Plant death may result from
a lack of water even though adequate moisture may be available
for growth of the remaining turf. Excessive levels of nitrogen
(ammonia form), other toxic chemicals, or direct invasion of the
turfgrass roots by fairy ring fungi (that is, M. oreades)
may also kill turf.
Control
Fairy ring development can often be traced to buried organic
debris. Undecomposed tree roots, stumps, wood scraps from construction
projects, and other organic debris are commonly colonized by fairy
ring fungi and should be removed before establishing a new lawn
or green. Use clean, ring-free sod for a new or renovated lawn.
Proper watering and management practices that minimize thatch
buildup may prove helpful in preventing ring development. See
Extension publication ANR-0239,
"Home Lawn Maintenance," for a detailed discussion
on lawn management.
ProStar 50W, applied at 6 ounces per 1,000 square feet, and
Heritage 50W applied at 0.4 ounces per 1,000 square feet, will
suppress the formation of fairy ring in turf. Use of these fungicides
is recommended on golf course greens, tees, and other highly visible
and valued turfs. On home lawns, treat only the ring and surrounding
turf. When a ring pattern first appears, apply ProStar 50W in
10 to 50 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet or Heritage 50W
in 4 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet. Since disease suppression
may be temporary, a second application may be made no earlier
than 30 days after the first. For consistent results, core aerify
symptomatic turf prior to applying a fungicide and irrigate before
and after each application. Always include a non-ionic surfactant
in all fungicide tank-mixes.
In most situations, especially on home lawns, symptom suppression
is the most practical method of fairy ring control. Zones of lush
turf on low-maintenance lawns associated with Type 1 and 2 rings
can be masked by fertilizing according to soil test recommendations.
See ANR-0239,
"Home Lawn Maintenance," for further information
on the fertility requirements of commonly grown turfgrasses.
The appearance of zones of wilted or dead turf may be prevented
by increasing soil moisture levels in the ring area. Using a tree
spike or lance, water turf thoroughly to a depth of 12 to 24 inches
at weekly intervals over a period of four to six weeks. Insert
spikes at 1-foot intervals around the entire ring edge.
Destroying the existing turf is generally required only to
control Type 1 fairy rings. Discard or kill a strip of sod 1 to
2 feet wide on either side of the zone of lush turf with a non-selective
herbicide. Cultivate the area repeatedly to thoroughly mix the
ring and non-ring soil. Eliminate dry spots by soaking the cultivated
area with water. You can fumigate the cultivated soil to kill
the fungus. See Extension publication ANR-0030,
"Nematode Control in the Home Garden," for further
information on soil fumigation.
Correct any soil fertility deficiencies according to soil test
recommendations before turf re-establishment. Finally, reseed
or install clean, ring-free sod. Follow recommended management
and irrigation practices to prevent fairy ring reoccurrence.
Use pesticides only according
to the directions on the label. Follow all directions, precautions,
and restrictions that are listed. Do not use pesticides on plants
that are not listed on the label. The pesticide
rates in this publication are recommended only if they
are registered with the Environmental Protection Agency and the
Alabama Department of Agriculture and Industries. If a registration
is changed or cancelled, the rate listed here is no longer recommended.
Before you apply any pesticide, check with your county Extension
agent for the latest information. Trade
names are used only to give specific information. The Alabama
Cooperative Extension System does not endorse or guarantee any
product and does not recommend one product instead of another
that might be similar. For more information,
contact your county Extension office. Look in your telephone directory
under your county's name to find the number.
For more information, contact your county Extension office. Visit http://www.aces.edu/counties or look in your telephone directory under your county's name to find contact information.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work in agriculture and
home economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, and other related
acts, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The Alabama
Cooperative Extension System (Alabama A&M University and Auburn
University) offers educational programs, materials, and equal
opportunity employment to all people without regard to race, color,
national origin, religion, sex, age, veteran status, or disability.
|
If you have problems loading
this document, please email publications@aces.edu
for assistance.
Publications Homepage | ACES Homepage
|