Learn Termite Warning Signs

Charles Andrews, Regional Extension Agent

If you own a home, it was probably inspected for termites when you purchased it. But just because there weren't termites found then, that doesn't mean you can forget about them. Learn the signs that indicate these pests have moved into the area and you will be able to handle the situation before it becomes a significant problem. When structural damage becomes visible, it's usually the result of years of termite infestation.

There are generally two types of termites which are of concern to homeowners: subterranean and non-subterranean (drywood and powderpost)termites. Non-subterranean termites such as powderpost or drywood termites are generally confined to one structural member of a building or piece of furniture, where as
subterranean termites usually nest in the soil and are the termites homeowners fear most.

Subterranean termites swarming indoors is one sign of infestation and this usually happens in the spring. Winged reproductives, one of the three castes of termites, leave their old colonies and fly in swarms to form new colonies. These winged reproductives will shed both of their pairs of wings shortly after they swarm.

Don't confuse winged termites with winged ants. Ants have narrow, wasp-like waists, while termites have broad waists. An ant's wings are about the same length as its body, but a termite's wings are about twice the length of the body. Bring the insect to the Extension office if you need help identifying it.

Subterranean termite tubes are another sign of infestation. Subterranean termites like dark, moist conditions and will make earth-colored tubes from the ground to the wood they're feeding on. Look for these tubes on basement walls, wooden posts and door and window trim.

Any wood in contact with the ground is especially susceptible. You can make some modifications to your home to help control termites. First, remove all wood debris from around your home. Replace wood posts and steps that contact the soil with pressure-treated lumber or some other non-wood based building material.

Replace any termite-damaged timbers with new pressure-treated timbers. If possible, keep wood 18 inches away from the soil. Make sure basements and crawl spaces are both well drained and well ventilated. Fill any cracks in the foundation with concrete or caulk. The Extension office has two excellent termite publications that can help you identify and manage this pest.

Direct run-off water away from the foundation and make sure that your gutter system is working correctly. This will help reduce soil moisture around your home.

If you suspect that you have a problem or if you find termites, call a reputable pest control professional to inspect your home and property. You may want to get several estimates. Call your local County Extension office for information about termites and other homeowner pests.

Testing Your Soil

It is important to test your soil every two to three years. This ensures that your garden plants have the healthiest environment. A soil test checks for available nutrients and the pH level.

Every square foot of soil can be different. Soil acidity and nutrients vary across the surface of the soil and with the depth of the soil. Therefore, it is important that you take a composite sample of the area to be tested.

Taking a Sample

A composite sample is a collection of 15 to 20 uniform cores or slices of soil taken from random spots in a garden, lawn, or shrub bed. Mix these cores together and place about 1 pint of the mixture into a soil sample box. Soil sample boxes, information sheets, and other supplies for soil testing are available from your county Extension office.

For each sample box, sample a garden area specific to a single type plant - turf, vegetables, trees and shrubs, etc. The following recommendations should help you collect the proper soil samples.

Gardens, new lawns, and other cultivated areas - Take a uniform core or slice of the soil to the depth that the soil was tilled. Use a zig-zag pattern of sampling as shown in Figure 3. Mix 15 to 20 of these cores or slices for the composite sample.

Lawns and established turf - Take a uniform core or slice 2 to 3 inches deep from 15 to 20 spots in the lawn. Take separate samples for the front lawn, back lawn, and other areas where soil may differ or where a different type of grass is grown.

Trees and shrubs - Take uniform cores or slices 6 inches deep from around the drip-line of plants (outer edge of branches). Mix individual cores into a composite sample.

Information and Mailing

Remember to fill in the information on the soil sample box and accompanying information sheet as completely as possible. You must also indicate which plants are to be grown so that fertilizer recommendations will be accurate to the plants in that area. Vegetable garden - Home orchard - Lawn - Shrubs - Perennial flowers - Roses.

When mailing your samples, enclose the filled soil box(es), the information sheet, and a check or money order to cover service charges in a cardboard shipping box. This is all found on the Information sheet, or ask your local County Extension Office for further assistance. The following webpages gives additional information: http://www.ag.auburn.edu/agronomy/soiltest.htm
http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-0006-A/

From the Ground Up

Preparing soil properly is the basis for any successful garden area – vegetable, mixed border, turf, or any other. Beginners do not always realize how important this is, but wonder later why a planting did no succeed. Though we cannot see the plant's root system, it is very important to overall plant health. Literally, plant health starts in the soil.

• Does the soil drain well? If not, add drain tiles, create a berm or raised bed, or add organic amendments like peat, pine bark, or compost. Most garden plants need good drainage so their roots will have plenty of oxygen.
• What type soil is it? Is it mostly clay, mostly sand, or a mix of the two. Most of our soils fit these categories. Rich, organic soils are great for many plants, but rare in Alabama. You can always add organic amendments, no matter the soil type, to improve soil health.
• Have you done a soil test recently? Taking a soil test is the only way to know what nutrients are or are not available to your plants. Soil pH may also need correcting so the soil environment is just right for your specific plants. Different plants have different needs. Get information and supplies for soil testing at your county Extension office.
• How wet is it today? Soils are a terrific reservoir for the water plants need. However, digging and working in soils when saturated can mean disaster. If it sticks to the shovel in a sheet or peels off tools as a solid clump, you are creating clods. These individual clods no longer work together, separated by smooth, slick edges and also create large air pockets when filled back in a planting hole. Roots unable to push through the smooth surfaces of clods, but also unable to grow in air pockets. Try this – if a handful of soil crumbles easily, conditions are perfect for digging.

Last, but not least, mulch gives enormous benefit to both plants and soil. Mulching the garden conserves soil moisture, prevents soil crusting, helps with weed control, moderates root zone temperatures, and improves soil structure as it decays. Pine straw is excellent mulch and is usually easy to get. Ground pine bark is also good. Slightly rotted tree leaves can even be used. Any organic material you have available will do the trick. Spread mulch out beyond the outer leaves of the plants. After settling, mulch should be 2 to 3 inches deep.

Avoid using plastic landscape fabrics. These sometimes prevent good air circulation, and can decrease water penetration into the soil. With organic mulches, avoid piling deep against the trunk or stem. This may encourage rot or other pest problems.

Understand your soil first before planting
Plant roots need oxygen to breathe. Be certain you have well drained, aerated soil. Plants need nutrients to stay healthy. Take a soil test every two to three years and be certain of plant needs before spending money and time on extra fertilizer. Add organic matter. It loosens and aerates tight, clay soils, improves water holding in loose, sandy soils and adds nutrients to all soil types. Plant roots need healthy soil. Take care of it by remembering the above tips and by applying a little patience when soil is too wet for digging.