When it comes to growing roses, there are two prerequisites: 1) get the best quality roses you can find, whether it be old roses or hybrids, and 2) plant it correctly in a site suitable for growing roses.

Roses need to be planted where they maximize sunlight and air circulation. In Alabama’s long, sultry hot summers, there is no such thing as a disease-free rose. There are however, many rose varieties that are more disease resistant than others to black-spot, powdery mildew and cane diseases. Check with nurserymen in your area, or guides such as Southern Living garden books for recommended disease resistant varieties for the South.

Roses are tough plants when grown in well-drained soil, enriched with organic matter, and where there is good sunlight and air circulation. You can expect some shedding of leaves as they succumb to fungus diseases, but fall is an excellent time to rejuvenate roses for a beautiful show of color before they rest for the winter. Fall is one of the better seasons in Alabama for plant growth and flowering. With adequate watering, some fertilization and clean up, you’ll enjoy many weeks of colorful blooms.

Prune out any dead or diseased canes and spent blooms. The amount and type of pruning needed depends upon the variety, but don’t prune as heavily as is done in the spring. Mulch is key to growing roses successfully in the South. Fall is a good time to rake out old mulch and diseased leaves that have shed during the summer. Replace with 3 to 4 inches of clean pine straw. If you don’t have enough pine straw, use leaves shed from shade trees topped off with an inch or so of pine straw. The leaves will decay over time, adding humus to the soil.

The tender, new growth that roses put on after pruning will most likely require protection from sucking pests such as aphids, thrips and beetles. Insecticidal soap is your first line of defense against aphids and sucking insects. A pyrethrin insecticide, Orthene or Sevin is recommended for control of adult beetles.

Roses respond well to cooler nights and less humid days if you provide the moisture they need and one last application of fertilizer in early fall. If you’ve used a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 during the spring and summer months, only a small amount of nitrogen should be used, such as one-half pound of ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) broadcasted per 100 square feet of bed. Wash any fertilizer off leaves and keep roses well watered. An alternative would be to continue using a water-soluble fertilizer about every two to three weeks until six weeks before the first expected killing frost. This will allow roses time to begin their dormancy period before freezing weather arrives.