Disaster Preparedness: Floods

Some simple advance preparation will help you be ready for possible floods in your area.

1. Know the flood warning system in your community and be sure your family knows the warning. Instruct family members in emergency procedures during a flood warning. If you live in an area subject to frequent or sudden floods, especially flash floods, you may wish to have family flood drills. Assign each family member an emergency task such as gathering emergency supplies, turning off utilities, or listening to the radio for instructions.
2. Flood proof your buildings. Install check valves in sewer traps to prevent water from backing up in sewer drains. Seal cracks in walls and floors with hydraulic cement. Place heavy screens over lower windows to prevent breakage from floating objects.
3. Be ready to protect appliances from minor flooding. Put a half-block of cement under each corner of refrigerators, freezers, washing machines and dryers. Use bricks or boards if you don't have cement blocks.
4. Identify fire hazards. During a flood, fire danger is increased. In addition, fire departments may be unable to get to fires through high water. Watch for these fire hazards on your property:

• Broken or leaking gas lines,
• flooded electrical circuits,
• submerged furnaces or electrical appliances
• flammable or explosive materials coming from upstream.

5. Before floodwaters crest, turn off the main power switch if you think the electrical circuits are going to be underwater. Never Touch The Switch While You Are Wet Or Standing In Water. Do not turn the electrical system back on until it has been inspected by an electrician.
6. Know what a river height forecast means for your property especially how far your property is above or below expected flood levels.
7. Know where to go in case of flooding. Remember that you must seek higher ground as quickly as possible, on foot if necessary.
8. If you are camping, know how far your campsite is above nearby waterways. Know how to seek higher ground. Stay out of unknown water paths such as dry creeks or river beds. If advised to leave the area, do so immediately.

When you are told to evacuate there are four steps you need to take:

1. If there is time, secure your house.

• Unplug appliances.
• In a flood hazard area, store propane tanks or secure them safely to the structure.
• Turn off the main water valve.
• Take any actions needed to prevent damage to water pipes by freezing weather, if this is a threat. Securely close and lock all doors, windows and garage.

2. Follow recommended evacuation routes. Do not take shortcuts, they may be blocked.
3. Listen to the radio for emergency shelter information.
4. Carry your family disaster supply kit.

1. Do not return until the local authorities say it is safe.
2. Continue listening to the radio for information and instructions.
3. Use extreme caution when entering or working in buildings structures may have been damaged or weakened. Watch for poisonous snakes in flooded structures and debris.
4. Do not take lanterns, torches or any kind of flame into a damaged building. There may be leaking gas or other flammable materials present. Use battery-operated flashlights for light. If you suspect a gas leak, do not use any kind of light. The light itself could cause an explosion.
5. If you smell leaking gas, turn off the main gas valve at the meter. If you can open windows safely, do so. Do not turn on lights they can produce sparks that may ignite the gas. Leave the house immediately and notify the gas company or the fire department. Do not reenter the house until an authorized person tells you it is safe to do so.
6. Notify the power company or fire department if you see fallen or damaged electrical wires.
7. If any of your appliances are wet, turn off the main electrical power switch in your home before you unplug them. Dry out appliances, wall switches and sockets before you plug them in again. Call utility companies for assistance.
8. Check food and water supplies for contamination and spoilage before using them.
9. Wear sturdy shoes when walking through broken glass or debris, and use heavy gloves when removing debris.
10. After the emergency is over, telephone your family and friends to tell them you are safe.

Standing water from melting snow or heavy rains can flood basements and damage yards, wells, feed supplies, machinery and other property. Flooding is more apt to occur in areas with poor surface drainage systems or ice dams.

A 1- to 3-foot high sandbag earth dike offers protection from shallow flooding (water depth less than 3 feet). Contact a construction firm, lumber yard or Civil Defense officials for information on where to buy sandbags in the area.

A sandbag dike can be constructed as follows:

1. Select the site for the dike, making the best use of natural land features to keep it as short and low as possible. Avoid trees or other obstructions which would weaken the structure. Do not build the dike against a basement wall. Leave about 8 feet of space to maneuver between the dike and buildings.
2. Remove ice and snow (down to the bare ground if possible) from a strip of land about 8 feet wide.
3. Fill and lap sandbags. Fill bags approximately half full of clay, silt or sand. Do not tie. Alternate direction of bags with bottom layer lengthwise of dike. Lap unfilled portion under next bag. Tamp thoroughly in place. Build the dike three times as wide as it is high.
4. Seal the finished dike to increase its watertightness. To seal the dike:

• Spread a layer of earth or sand 1 inch deep and about 1 foot wide along the bottom of the dike on the water side.
• Lay polyethylene plastic sheeting so that the bottom edge extends 1 foot beyond the bottom edge of the dike over the loose dirt. The upper edge should extend over the top of the dike. (This plastic sheeting, available from construction supply firms, comes in 100-foot rolls and is 8 or 10 feet wide.)
• Lay the plastic sheeting down very loosely so that the pressure of the water will make the plastic conform easily with the sandbag surface. If the plastic is stretched too tightly, the water force can puncture it.
• Place a row of tightly fitting sandbags on the bottom edge of the plastic to form a watertight seal along the water side. Place sandbags at about 6-foot intervals to hold down the top edge of the plastic. Place boards or dirt between these sandbags to prevent winds from disturbing the plastic. As you work, avoid puncturing the plastic with sharp objects or by walking on it.

Food safety precautions can make an important difference after a disaster occurs. Food can become contaminated as a result of fire, flood and wind related exposure. It also may spoil or become unsafe after a power outage.

Precautions Against Power Outages

If your area comes under an advisory that may lead to prolonged power outages (hurricanes, prolonged flooding, etc.) take these steps to help keep your food safe:

• Turn your refrigerator and freezer to the coldest setting. This will help the food stay frozen.
• Purchase a 50-pound block of dry ice. This will keep food in a full 18 cubic foot freezer safe for 2 days. Wrap it in brown paper for longer storage. Separate it from direct food contact with a piece of cardboard.
• Fill partially filled freezers with crumpled newspaper to reduce air currents which will dissipate dry ice.

After a Power Outage

If you should lose power, the emergency food supplies in your family disaster supply kit will be safe. Food in the refrigerator and freezer may be in trouble.

Generally, food in a refrigerator will be safe if the power is not out longer than a few hours and the temperature has been at 40° F or below. Food in a full, free-standing freezer should be safe for about 2 days if the temperature was at 0° F or below. Food in a half-full freezer should be safe for about 1 day if the temperature was at 0° F or below. To prolong the life of your food the following measures should be taken.

• Group meat and poultry to one side, or on a tray, so their juices won't contaminate other foods if they begin to thaw.
• Be wary of using meat, poultry and foods containing milk, cream, sour cream or soft cheese.
• Don't rely on odor or appearance of food. If perishable food has been at room temperature for more than 2 hours, discard it.

In emergency conditions, the following foods should keep at room temperature (above 40° F) a few days. Discard anything that turns moldy or has an unusual odor or look.

• Fresh fruits and vegetables
• Dried fruits and coconut
• Opened jars of salad dressing, peanut butter, jelly, relish, taco sauce, barbecue sauce, mustard,

catsup, olives

• Hard and processed cheeses
• Fruit juices
• Fresh herbs and spices
• Flour and nuts
• Fruit pies
• Bread, rolls, cakes and muffins

• Raw or cooked meat, poultry and seafood
• Milk, cream, yogurt, soft cheese
• Cooked pasta, pasta salads
• Custard, chiffon or cheese pies
• Fresh eggs, egg substitutes
• Meat topped pizzas, lunchmeats
• Casseroles, stews or soups
• Mayonnaise and tartar sauce
• Refrigerator and cookie doughs
• Cream filled pastries

Refreeze thawed foods that still contain ice crystals or feel cold.

Flood waters may carry contaminants such as silt, raw sewage or chemical waste. Disease bacteria in the water also can contaminate any food it touches. If you have experienced flood conditions, follow these guidelines:

• Save undamaged commercially canned foods (except as noted later).
• Do not use home-canned foods that have been covered with flood water.
• Commercial glass jars of food are safe if the containers are sanitized (except as noted later).
• Remove the labels from jars and cans and mark the contents on can or jar lid with indelible ink.

To sanitize jars, cans, dishes and glassware, wash in a strong detergent solution with a scrub brush. After washing, immerse them in a solution of 2 teaspoons chlorine bleach per gallon of room temperature water. Air dry before using. If needed, clean empty glass also may be sanitized by boiling in water for 10 minutes. To sanitize metal pans and utensils, boil in water for 10 minutes.

Discard wooden and plastic utensils, baby nipples, pacifiers and any other porous nonfood items that are used with food.

Discard the following foods:

• Meat, poultry, fish and eggs
• Fresh produce
• Preserves sealed with paraffin
• Unopened jars with waxed cardboard seals such as mayonnaise and salad dressing
• All foods in cardboard boxes, paper, foil, cellophane or cloth
• Spices, seasonings and extracts
• Home-canned foods
• Opened containers and packages
• Flour, grain, sugar, coffee and other staples in canisters
• Dented, leaking, bulging or rusted cans

In addition to the physical damage a disaster brings, stress and emotional disequilibrium need to be addressed by victims. Steps you can take to reduce the effects of a disaster include:

• Be extra patient.
• Keep in mind that other people may have a different viewpoint about what should be top priority.
• Realize that it will take time to restore things, both physically and emotionally.
• Try to keep your family diet as nutritious as possible.
• Focus on the big picture instead of the little details. This will give you a sense of completeness.
• Talk with friends, family and clergy. A support network is essential in a disaster situation.
• Watch for the tendency to resort to bad habits when you are under stress.

If you are dealing with disaster victims, realize that it's natural for them to express disbelief, sadness, anger, anxiety and depression. Also realize that these emotions and moods can change unexpectedly.

Children may require special attention after experiencing a disaster. Four common fears children have are death, darkness, animals and abandonment. In a disaster children may experience any or all of these. You should encourage children to talk about what they are feeling and to express this through play, drawing or painting.

A child's reaction to a disaster may vary depending on age, maturity and previous experience. In all cases it is important to acknowledge what happened and take time to talk with children about their fears.

Some behaviors you may find children exhibiting after a disaster include:

• Being upset at the loss of a favorite toy, blanket, teddy bear, etc.
• Hitting, throwing or kicking to show their anger and frustration.
• Fear of the disaster coming again.
• Fear of being left alone or sleeping alone. They may want to sleep

with another person.

• Behaving as they did when they were younger, including wetting

the bed, sucking their thumb, wanting to be held, etc.

• Exhibiting symptoms of illness such as nausea, fever, headaches,

not wanting to eat, etc.

• Becoming quiet and withdrawn.
• Becoming easily upset.
• Feeling that they caused the disaster in some way.
• Feeling neglected by parents who are busy cleaning up or rebuilding.
• Refusing to go to school or to be out of the parent's sight.

Parents and other adults can help children come to terms with their feelings in several ways.

• Let children know you love them and they can count on you.
• Reassure them that they are not responsible for what occurred.
• Talk with your children about your own feelings.
• Give simple, accurate answers to children's questions.
• Hold them. Close contact assures children you are there for them and will not abandon them.
• Let children grieve for a lost toy or blanket that was special to them. It will help them cope with their feelings.
• Provide play experiences to relieve stress.
• Repeat assurances and information as often as you need to; do not stop responding.
• Spend extra time putting children to bed at night.
• Listen to what children say. Repeat their words to clarify what they are feeling.

counseling center, minister or mental health agency.

Priorities will vary with the kind and seriousness of damage. Buildings may not be habitable during repair.

Examine building structure. Check foundations for settling, cracking or undermining. Examine walls, floors, doors and windows to determine what repairs are necessary. You may want to repair only temporarily until extensive work can be done.

If basement is flooded, start pumping the water in stages. Pump about one-third of the water each day.

Get the electrical system in operation. If the switch box is in a flooded basement, do not turn electricity back on until water has been pumped out. Take electrical appliances to a serviceman as soon as possible.

Get the water system in operation. Disinfect wells and water system.

Shovel out mud and silt before it dries.

Before they dry, wash down flooded walls and floors with a hose. Start at upper limit of flooding and work downward. Scrub and disinfect walls and floors.

Start the heating system if possible to speed up drying. Before operating it, the heating system may need to be cleaned, dried and reconditioned. Make sure chimneys are clean before starting system.

Dry out walls and floors. If necessary for proper drying, strip walls open up to water level. Drill holes in exterior siding. Complete drying may take months. Repair buckled walls and floors.

Clean and dry household items, furniture, carpets, clothing, dishes and bedding. Disinfect when necessary. Treat items for mildew as needed.

Care for damaged trees, shrubs and lawn.

Repaint, repair, refinish as necessary.

Mattresses

1. A good innerspring mattress should be sent to a commercial renovating company. Renovation is too difficult to do at home. Ask about the cost of the work. It may be less expensive to buy a good reconditioned or new mattress.
2. If a mattress must be used temporarily, scrape off surface dirt and expose mattress to sunlight to dry as much as possible. Cover mattress with a rubber or plastic sheet or mattress cover before using it.
3. If you decide to keep a flood-soiled mattress, it should be sterilized. This must be done at a sterilizing plant such as a mattress company or a state hospital. Ask your local public health department or county Extension agent for information on mattress sterilizing plants in your area. Have mattresses as dry as possible before taking them to a sterilizing plant. Use crop drying fans or household fans to speed up the drying process.

Feather Pillows

1. For feather pillows, if ticking is in good condition and does not contain red or yellow stains, wash feather and ticking together. Brush off surface dirt. Wash in machine or by hand in warm (not hot) suds 15 to 20 minutes. Use a disinfectant, following product directions for use. If using an automatic washer, wash no more than two pillows at one time. If washing by hand, rinse at least three times in clear warm water. Spin off water or squeeze out as much water as possible. Do not put pillows through a wringer. Dry in an automatic dryer at moderate heat setting. Put several bath towels in the dryer with the pillow to speed up drying. Allow about 2 hours. Or dry pillows in a warm room on a sweater drying rack with a fan on them. Shake and turn pillows occasionally to fluff feathers and hasten drying. Or hang pillows on a clothesline by two corners. Change position end to end and shake occasionally to fluff feathers and speed drying.
2. If ticking is not in good condition or is stained with red or yellow mud, wash feathers and ticking separately. Find or make a bag of light weight, firmly woven fabric such as muslin. The bag should be two to three times larger than the ticking. Open one edge of the ticking. Pin the open edges of the ticking and the bag together. Shake feathers from ticking into bag. Sew seam in bag to close it. Wash and dry the bag of feathers, following directions for washing feathers and ticking together. Wash the ticking, using a disinfectant in the first wash. Follow product directions for use. Repeat washing until stains have been removed. Difficult red and yellow stains may need to be bleached or treated with rust
3. remover. Avoid drying the ticking with heat until all stains have been removed. Transfer clean feathers to clean ticking, using the same method as for emptying the ticking. Sew seam in ticking to close it. Feathers will slide into the ticking more easily if ticking has been starched and ironed.
4. If pillows have been badly soaked with flood water, it may not be possible to remove all objectionable odors.

Polyester Fiberfill Pillows

1. Brush off surface dirt.
2. Wash in machine on gentle cycle or by hand in warm (not hot) suds, using a disinfectant. Follow product directions for use. If washing by hand, flush water through the pillow by compressing it. Do not wring or twist. Repeat if all stains are not removed.
3. If washing by hand, rinse three times in clear, warm water.
4. Spin off water or press out as much water as possible by hand.
5. Follow directions for drying given for feather pillows.

Foam Rubber or Urethane Pillows

1. Brush off surface dirt.
2. Follow manufacturer's directions if available. Otherwise, wash in machine on gentle cycle or by

3. Rinse well with lukewarm water.
4. Gently squeeze or spin out excess water. Blot with towels.
5. Dry away from heat or sunlight. Pillows may be tumbled in an automatic dryer on "air only" setting. Do not use heat. Or air dry on a flat surface, turning regularly. Pillows may dry very slowly in the air.
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Wash only one blanket, quilt or comforter at a time. Shake and brush to remove surface dirt. Follow manufacturer's laundering directions if available. Otherwise follow the directions below.

Wool Blankets, Quilts and Comforters

1. Soak for 15 to 20 minutes in lukewarm water. Use a bathtub or large sink. Turn two or three times during soak period. Drain off water. Several soak periods maybe needed if the blanket is very soiled.
2. Wash in lukewarm water with mild detergent and disinfectant appropriate for fiber content.

Cotton and Synthetic Blankets (Not Electric)

1. Machine wash on gentle cycle in warm (not hot) water with detergent and disinfectant. Follow product directions for use. Repeat if necessary. Use bleach or rust remover to remove red or yellow stains. Test before use because some bleaches and rust removers may remove or change the colors.
2. Dry in automatic dryer on moderate heat. Add several towels to speed drying. Or air dry on a clothesline.
3. Press binding if needed.

Electric Blankets

1. Avoid twisting, crimping and wringing the wiring.
2. Machine wash on gentle in warm (not hot) water no more than 5 minutes. Dissolve detergent in wash
3. water before putting blanket in machine. Disinfect, following product directions. Do not use chlorine bleach as the disinfectant. Evenly distribute the blanket in the machine. Use cold rinse. Do not put blanket through a wringer.
4. Machine dry by preheating dryer at a moderate or warm setting. Add the blanket and allow it to tumble for ten minutes. Remove blanket while still damp and hang over two or more clotheslines to finish drying. Straighten and shape blanket as it dries.
5. If washing by hand, follow directions for wool blankets. Electric mattress pad and foot-warmer pads may be washed like electric blankets.

Sheets, Towels, Linens

1. Brush and shake off as much loose dirt as possible.
2. Soak or rinse mud-stained fabric in cool water in washing machine to remove some of the soil.
3. Wash in warm suds and disinfectant several times if necessary. Follow product label directions for use. Do not use hot water or dry with heat until all stains have been removed.
4. If stains remain after several washings, bleach with sodium perborate or chlorine bleach. Rust remover may remove red or yellow stains. Test these use because they may remove or change colors.

1. If flood waters have covered a garden, some produce will be unsafe to eat. The safety of unharvested fruits and vegetables will depend on:

•      Kind of produce
•      Maturity of produce at the time of flooding
•      Time of year flooding occurred
•      Severity of flooding (depth of water and silt)
•      Duration of flooding
•      Bacterial content of floodwater
•      Likelihood of contamination from sewage or other bacterial contaminants

2. In general, fruits and vegetables which were immature at the time of flooding should be safe to eat by the time they are ready to harvest. For additional safety, disinfect produce and cook it before eating.

3. Unless flooding was light and there is no danger of bacterial contamination from floodwater, do not use fruits and vegetables that were ready for harvest at the time of flooding unless they are disinfected, peeled and thoroughly cooked. Some fruits and vegetables are more susceptible than others to bacterial contamination.

•      Leafy vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage, mustard, kale, collards, spinach, swiss chard, celery, and fleshy vegetables and berry fruits such as tomatoes, summer squash, strawberries and peppers are highly susceptible to bacterial contamination. Silt and other contaminants may be imbedded in the leaves, petioles, stems or other natural openings of fleshy structures and can be difficult to remove.
•      Root, bulb and tuber crops such as beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, onions and potatoes are less susceptible to bacterial contamination. Disinfect these vegetables, peel and cook them thoroughly before eating.
•      Produce with a protected fruit or impervious outer skin such as peas, melons, eggplant, sweet corn or winter squash should be washed and disinfected before the outer shell, skin or husk is removed. Then shell, peel or husk the produce and cook it if possible.

4. Thoroughly wash and disinfect any produce before eating. Wash in a strong detergent solution with a scrub brush. Remove all silt. Immerse produce for 15 to 20 minutes in a chlorine solution. Household bleaches contain from 2 to 6 percent chlorine. The amount of bleach to add to water depends on the percentage chlorine it contains:

•      2 percent—3/4 tablespoon/quart
•      4 percent—1 teaspoon/quart
•      6 percent—1/2 teaspoon/quart).

Rinse thoroughly with safe drinking water. Peel if possible and cook thoroughly before eating. Refer any specific questions to health authorities or your county Extension agent.

1. Use extreme caution when entering any damaged building.
2. If you must enter at night, carry a flashlight or other light.
3. If gas lines are broken, turn off gas at the meter or tank.
4. Do not smoke or use any open flame.
5. Watch for loose plaster and ceilings that could fall.
6. Open as many doors and windows as possible to remove moisture, odors and flammable or toxic gases. If windows are stuck tight, take off window strips and remove entire sash. If doors are stuck, drive out door hinge pins with a screwdriver and hammer, and remove doors.
7. If you are not qualified to judge the stability of a foundation, hire a contractor to make this inspection. A neighborhood might join together in hiring a contractor for this work.
8. Examine foundations and supports for undermining. If walls or foundations have settled or cracked, uncover footings and raise, reinforce or brace any settled sections. Be extremely careful when uncovering footings, because of the possibility of cavernous washouts.
9. If underlying material has been washed away, fill spaces to within 12 inches of the footing with gravel or crushed rock. Fill the remaining space with concrete reinforced with steel rods.
10. Check piers for settling or shifting.
11. If the building has shifted or the floors have settled badly, it may be necessary to install temporary bracing until extensive work can be done.
12. Drain any crawl spaces which contain water.
13. Wash out mud, dirt and debris as soon as possible with a hose and mop, cloth or sponge. Clean walls and floors before silt or mud dries.
14. Start cleaning from the top floor or upper limit of flooding and work downward toward the first floor or basement.
15. Check walls with a level or plumb bob.
16. Brace walls where necessary.
17. Check mudsills, plates, soles and anchorage. Replace or repair where necessary, using redwood, cedar or treated lumber.
18. To speed up drying of flooded studding and insulation, remove all siding strips or plaster from upper and lower parts of the walls. Do not repaint walls until they are completely dry. This may take several months. Flooded insulation may be ruined.
19. Remove loose plaster. After house is completely dry, repair damaged plaster on walls and ceilings. Badly damaged plaster walls can be resurfaced with gypsum board or plywood.
20. Flooded wooden floors will dry out slowly. Don't build fires to speed up their drying, as this could cause cracking or splitting from uneven drying. However, if the central heating system is operating, keep the temperature of the house at 60° to 70° F to hasten drying without causing additional problems.
21. To prevent further buckling and warping, drive nails where the floor tends to lift or bulge.
22. After floors are completely dry, plane or sand them level.
23. If floors are too badly damaged to be refinished, lay a new floor over the old, or cover with carpet, vinyl or linoleum.
24. If a concrete floor is badly damaged, break it up and install a new floor. If damage is minor, patch with a rich mixture of concrete containing no coarse gravel aggregate.
25. Use plastic sheeting or roll roofing for temporary repair on solid deck roofs covered with asphalt shingles, wood shingles or roll roofing.
26. Use knife consistency patching compounds to repair minor leaks.
27. You probably will have to replace damaged metal roofing on spaced roof decks.

1. Do not start submerged electric motors until they have been cleaned, dried and checked for safety.

• Disconnect the motor. An ejector or jet pump motor may be a separate unit mounted on the pump, or the end bell of the motor may be part of the pump. The separate motor unit can be disconnected and serviced easily. With the second type, remove the pump and motor as a unit. It is not necessary to remove the drop pipes.
• Take the motor to an electrical repair shop. In the shop, the motor should be checked for any short circuits or grounding caused by moisture. If the motor was submerged in mud and water, it should be thoroughly cleaned. Windings should be dried in a drying oven. The bearings should be lubricated before you use the motor again.
• Clean and dry electrical controls and pressure switches. Check all wiring for short circuits.

2. Pumps usually are damaged by sediment deposited in the bearings. Clean pumps. Check valves for silt and sand. Remove all dirt and water from the gears in the gear box and replace the lubricant with fresh oil.

• Submersible pumps. The bearings on water-lubricated pumps will not be damaged by flood waters, since these bearings are constantly submerged in water. As soon as possible, flush clean water down the casing to remove sediment and silt. Then disinfect the well.
• Centrifugal pumps. Many centrifugal pumps contain two sets of oil-lubricated bearings along the drive shaft between the motor and the pump. If the pump has been flooded, dismantle the container bracket and remove the bearings.
• Clean the bearings, or install new bearings if the old ones are worn out.
• Close-coupled centrifugal pumps contain no bearings, so there is little chance of flood damage except to the electric motor.

3. Injector-type pumps. These pumps usually contain watertight packing at the ground surface, with sealed impellers. Flood waters probably will not damage this type of pump.
4. The storage tank and piping should be all right unless muddy water was pumped through it. If tank is contaminated, disinfect the entire system with a strong chlorine solution. Use 1 quart household laundry bleach or check with local health department for recommended solution strength.
   Open all faucets while the system is being filled. Do not close the spigot until a definite smell of chlorine is evident. Do not use the system for 24 hours. Then start the pump and run water from all faucets until the chlorine odor is gone.
5. Wells probably will not be damaged structurally from floods, but they may be contaminated. Have your well tested by health officials before you use the water.
6. If the well is located in a low spot, it may be contaminated with silt from floodwaters draining into it. If so, the well and entire water system should be disinfected. To disinfect the well system:
• Pump the well until water is clear.
• Pour a solution of 1 quart liquid laundry bleach (Clorox , Purex , Hilex or a similar hypochlorite solution) mixed in 3 gallons of water into the well casing. Leave it there at least 4 hours, or preferably overnight.
• Pump the chlorinated water into the piping system, and leave it there for at least 2 hours or even overnight.
• The next day, pump and flush out the system until the taste and odor of chlorine are no longer apparent. Two days after you have disinfected the water system take a sample of water according to recommended procedures and have it tested for purity. Boil or treat all drinking water until a water test indicates that water is safe for all purposes.

7. Do not drink water from a flooded cistern until you disinfect the cistern and the entire piping system. To disinfect the cistern:
• Use an auxiliary pump to remove the water and empty the cistern. Do not pump water through the pipeline distribution system.
• Wash down the walls and ceiling with clean water, and pump out the dirty water with an auxiliary pump.
• Check the cistern walls, ceiling and floor for cracks where groundwater could come in.
• Disinfect the interior with a solution of 1 quart laundry bleach in 3 gallons of water. Be sure the bleach contains no soap. Apply the chlorine solution with a sprayer or scrub with a stiff broom.
• Swab or pump out the disinfecting solution that collects in the bottom of the cistern.
• Leave the chlorine solution in the pipes for at least 2 hours (overnight if possible) before you drain them.
• Fill the cistern with water for use. This water will have a chlorine taste for awhile, but it will be safe for all purposes.

8. Regenerate water softeners before you use them. Use clean chlorinated water to backwash the filterbed.

Disinfect flooded wells before they are used as a source of drinking water. To disinfect a well:

1. Scrub the pumproom and wash all equipment, including piping, pump and pressure tank.
2. Remove the well seal at the top of the casing. Pour a solution of 1 quart laundry bleach and 3 gallons of water into the top of the well. Pour the solution so it washes down the inside of the casing and the outside of the drop pipes. In some wells you will need only to remove a plug from the seal to pour the solution into the well.
3. Leave the solution in the well about 4 hours. Then pump it into the pressure tank and distribution system.

Draw the chlorinated water into all piping by opening each faucet until the odor of chlorine is apparent. Leave the chlorine in the piping at least 2 hours. Then run the water until the taste and odor are no longer objectionable.

Before you enter a flooded basement:

1. Turn off the electricity, preferably at the meter.
2. Check outside cellar walls for possible cave-ins, evidence of structural damage or other hazards.
3. Turn off gas or fuel service valves.
4. Open doors and windows or use blowers to force fresh air into the basement.
5. Do not use an electric pump powered by your own electrical system. Use a gas-powered pump or one connected to an outside line. Fire departments in some communities may help with such services.
6. More damage may be done by pumping water from the basement too soon or too quickly, than from letting the floodwater remain. Water in the basement helps brace the walls against the extra pressure of water-logged soil outside. If water is pumped out too soon, walls may be pushed in or floors pushed up. To help prevent such structural damage, pump the water from the basement in stages. Remove about one-third of the water each day. Watch walls for signs of failing. If the outside water level rises again after the day's pumping, start with a new water line. The soil may be very slow to drain, but do not hurry the pumping. Whatever is submerged in the flooded basement will not be damaged further. By delaying the pumping, serious structural damage may be prevented.
7. After water has been pumped from the basement, shovel out the mud and debris while it is still moist. Hose down walls to remove as much silt as possible before it dries.
8. Floors and walls may need sanitizing, particularly if sewage has entered the basement. Scrub walls and floors with one of these sanitizing solutions:

• Chloride of lime (25 percent available chlorine). Dissolve a 12-ounce can in 2 gallons of water.
• High test hypochlorate (65 percent available chlorine) Stir 5 ounces into 2 gallons of water.

9. Oil stains in basements caused by overturned or damaged oil tanks may be a problem following flooding.

• Commercial products (such as Neutrodal ) will help neutralize fuel oil.
• Products are available in powder form or an aerosol spray for hard-to-reach places.
• To remove oil stains and destroy odor, wipe up excess oil, shake or spray product on the spot according to manufacturer's directions, and let it set.