by Shane Harris, Regional Extension Agent
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Published in The Outlook and
The Dadeville Record
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Tips for Growing and Caring for
Tomatoes
Tomatoes
are a summer treat and a must have in the vegetable
garden. By early May, most people have
already planted tomato plants or are just now getting started. To get to the point where one can pick a nice
lush ripe backyard tomato, a lot of work and care will be required once
the
tomato plant has been set out or comes up. Managing
insects and diseases are a major part but
mulching, watering,
and staking may be just as critical if not more important.
Here are a few tips to keep in mind.
Mulching helps
control weeds and conserves moisture. It also
reduces diseases by reducing the amount of water splashing onto the
bottom
leaves of the plants. Spread two to three inches of mulch in a circle
around
the plants once the soil has warmed up and the plants are growing well.
Pine
straw, grass clippings, newspaper, and wheat straw are good choices and
will decompose
as the season progresses. It can be
tilled in later in the fall as additional organic matter.
Mulch helps to ensure uniform
soil moisture and cuts down on
the need for frequent watering. However, during extended dry periods,
it may be
advisable to water plants in sandy soils at 5-to-7-day intervals and
plants in
clay soils at 7-to-10-day intervals. Run sprinklers long enough to wet
the soil
six inches deep. If you apply water faster than the percolation rate of
the soil,
runoff will occur. In that case, water until runoff, allow the water to
soak
in, and water again one hour later. Continue until the soil is wet to a
depth of
five to ten inches. Adequate moisture will help maintain uniform
production and
will reduce blossom-end rot. Avoid overhead watering as much as
possible.
Supporting tomato
plants
in some way as they grow and develop fruit is also a major requirement.
There
are many specific techniques for supporting tomato plants; however, the
two
general methods are staking and caging.
Since determinate tomatoes do not
grow as tall, they are
most often staked. With staking, all
flower clusters on a tomato plant usually develop on the same side of
the stem.
A stake should be placed so that the developing fruit are not crowded
between
the main stem and the stake. Therefore, do not stake plants until after
the
first flower cluster is formed. Then drive the stake on the side
opposite the
flower cluster and about four inches away form the base of the plant.
Make the first tie just above the
first flower cluster,
using strong binder twine or cloth strips. Use a modified figure-eight
tie,
looping the string around the plant stem. Cross the ends between the
stem and
the stake, then pass the ends of the string around the stake and tie
them. Do
not draw the stem up snugly against the stake. Leave room for the stem
to grow
without binding. Additional ties should be made above each flower
cluster as it
develops to support the plant and to keep the fruit off the ground.
Staked
tomatoes will usually produce ripe tomatoes earlier in the season than
caged
tomatoes.
Indeterminate tomato plants do better if surrounded by wire
cages. However, a cage should be sturdy and well anchored to the
ground.
Concrete reinforcing wire provides good support for the plants. A cage
should
be from 20 to 36 inches in diameter. A length of wire 6 to 9 feet can
be used
to construct a cage within that size range. In general, a caged tomato
plant
will produce more but smaller sized fruit than a staked tomato plant.
For other
information or assistance, contact the Tallapoosa County Extension
Office at
256-825-1050 or visit us online at www.aces.edu.
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