by Shane Harris, Regional Extension Agent
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Published  in The Outlook and The Dadeville Record


Factual Reasons NOT to “Winterize the Lawn”

“Don’t believe everything you see or hear.”  That is what I tell Master Gardeners and homeowners all the time when it comes to buying and using products to improve the looks of their lawn. “Winterizing the lawn” in the fall is a prime example and nothing but a bunch of hogwash. Despite all the colorful commercials on TV and the numerous new lawn products for sale at retails stores, don’t be fooled into thinking your lawn needs fertilizer during the winter in order to survive.  It doesn’t and, in fact, it may even do more harm than good. Before you go off and buy something to “get your lawn though the winter” pay attention to the real facts.

Our deep southern lawns, which include Bermuda, Centipede, Zoysia, and St. Augustine grass, become dormant during the winter. They go from green to brown, usually after the first hard frost. Since the lawn goes dormant, it doesn’t do much growing, right?  Don’t have to mow the lawn in January do you? Well, if the grass isn’t growing then why do you need a winter fertilizer?  That doesn’t make sense. Do you just like fertilizing the weeds?  Fertilizers, especially those high in nitrogen, which is the first number on the bag, only promotes green-up and growth.  Lawns that green-up during the winter have a really good chance of being killed by a frost or freeze.  Winterizing the lawn may ultimately result in not a healthy lawn but a dead one. 

The truth is that lawn winterizing products are a complete waste of time and money for most Alabama residents.  These products are primarily for cool season grasses that do grow during the winter and can be found in lawns further north.  The best strategy is to provide all the necessary nutrients to the lawn during the summer months when the grass is storing up its reserves in its roots for the long winter ahead. Otherwise, you might as well kiss your money and lawn goodbye.  “Let the buyer beware”.

Cleaning up Flowerbeds

By the first frost, many flowerbeds are done for the year and begin looking sort of ragged. Many of us know we need to do something to maintain and improve those flowerbeds, but we may be a little unsure of exactly what to do in November.  Dr. Raymond Kessler, Extension Specialist in Horticulture, says the removal of the dead shoot portion of herbaceous perennials is unnecessary as far as perennial plants are concerned (no one does it for them in nature) but it does make the perennial border and flowerbeds look more attractive. Other advice he had to offer is: 
  • Renew the mulch in the flowerbed is a good idea in the fall because it protects the dormant crown of the plant from hard freezes in the case of marginal plants.
  • Do not fertilize in the fall. Wait until new growth just begins in the spring.
  • Fall is a good time to divide and transplant perennials or plant new perennials because, though the shoot is gone, roots continue to grow underground through the winter and the plant is well established for new spring growth.
  • Even though we historically have a lot of rain in the winter in the southeast, watch the watering of fall planted perennials and supplement water if needed.
  • An all-perennial border can be an empty place in the winter because the vast majority of perennials are deciduous. Inter-plant pansies and violas to add color through the winter.
Storing Firewood
Due to the anticipation of higher energy costs this winter, many people may turn back to traditional heating methods, such as burning firewood, this year to stay warm.  If you decide to return to using firewood, there are some things to remember:
  • Don't store firewood in the garage, under a carport, or against the house. Termites and other unwanted household pests could move in with the wood.
  • Store the firewood at least 20 feet from the house and at least 6 inches off the ground to avoid infestation. Unseasoned or green wood doesn't burn well due to its' high moisture content. A sign of the wood being unseasoned is when it is very heavy and sap is oozing out of it.
  • A piece of dry, seasoned firewood has large cracks or checks in the end grain. If the wood you purchase has not been properly seasoned, it may take 6 to 18 months for it to occur.
  • Dry seasoned wood ignites and burns much easier and causes fewer problems with condensation and creosote.
  • Hardwoods like oak, hard maple, hickory, ash, walnut, locust, apple, peach, etc. are the top burning while softer wood such as willow, poplar, pine and cedar will have more creosote buildup and not burn as long.
For more information, contact the Tallapoosa County Extension Office at (256) 825-1050.