A properly managed lawn lends distinction to your home. Turfgrasses provide color, comfort, beauty, and recreation in addition to preventing soil erosion. Following the tips given below should help you keep your lawn in good condition and increase your satisfaction from having a well-managed lawn.
Mowing
Mowing has a measurable effect on the way a grass plant grows. The ability of a grass to sustain itself through frequent close clipping is one factor that distinguished a grass species as a turfgrass. Grasses such as wheat, corn, and oats cannot tolerate the harsh treatment of frequent mowing.
How often should a turf be mowed? The rate of growth and the height of cut determine the frequency of mowing. The rate of growth depends upon the frequency of mowing. The rate of growth depends upon the type of grass, soil fertility (especially nitrogen content), and the weather. Most lawns in Montgomery County are warm season grasses-grasses which grow faster and need to be mowed more frequently in the summer. Cool season grasses need to be mowed more often in spring and fall, when they make most of their growth.
A general rule of thumb in determining the frequency of mowing is to mow before the grass becomes one and a half times as tall as the cutting height of your mower. For example, if the height of cut is 1 inch, mow before growth reaches 1½ inches in height. If you continually allow your grass to grow too tall between mowing, a thick, weedy, unhealthy turf is likely to develop.
You can decrease the frequency of mowing by: (1) choosing a slower growing turfgrass; (2) reducing the rate of nitrogen fertilization; and (3) raising the cutting height of your mower. The rate of nitrogen fertilization and the frequency and height of cut are major factors in determining the quality of turf.
At what height should you mow your turf? Mowing height depends on the type of grass, your objectives, and your willingness to work. The table below shows the recommended range of cutting heights for different grasses. You can achieve a better quality turf at the lower heights, but you will need to mow more frequently, have a more level terrain, and need to apply a higher rate of nitrogen fertilization.
Maintenance Recommendations for Turfgrasses
| |
Nitrogen Fertility
lb/1000 sq.ft./year |
Mowing Height
inches |
Mower Preferred |
| |
Minimum |
Maximum |
Minimum |
Maximum |
|
| Common Bermuda |
3 |
8 |
¾ |
11/2 |
Reel |
| Hybrid Bermuda |
4 |
10 |
½ |
1 |
Reel |
| Zoysia |
2 |
8 |
½ |
1 |
Reel |
| St.Augustine |
2 |
8 |
1 ½ |
2 ½ |
Rotary |
| Centipede |
0 |
2 |
1 ½ |
2 |
Rotary |
Most people mow with rotary mowers. These mowers have horizontal blades that flail the grass and fray the leaf blades. A rotary mower becomes noticeably duller after one use and should be sharpened often. Reel mowers have cleaner, scissors-like cuts. Reel mowers therefore produce a better quality turf than do rotary mowers. A reel mower is more difficult to sharpen, but it should require less frequent sharpening. A reel mower may be more expensive, but it is normally more rugged and uses less fuel. Most reel mowers can be set at a lower cutting height than can rotary mowers. Reel mowers are recommended for bermudagrass and zoysiagrass to achieve the maximum quality of these grasses. A smoother turf, free of sticks, stones, and other debris, is necessary when using a reel mower. Removal of turfgrass clippings is not necessary if you mow as recommended above. Recent research has shown that moderate amounts of clippings decompose rapidly; therefore, the nutrients in the leaves are recycled without contributing greatly to the thatch layer. Nitrogen fertilization can be reduced if clippings are not removed. Clippings should be removed if they form clumps on the surface. Clumping normally occurs only if the grass is allowed to grow too high before mowing or if mowed when wet. Zoysia leaves do not decay as readily as leaves of other grasses; therefore, zoysia clippings may need to be collected and discarded when growth is excessive.
Fertilization
The best turfgrass fertilization philosophy is to sample and test your soil. Then fertilize with phosphorus, potassium, and lime as indicated by the test results. Once these nutrients are brought to their ideal level (preferably at time of establishment), turfgrass growth can be controlled with nitrogen fertilizers. Continual fertilization with a fertilizer such as 8-8-8, 5-10-10, 10-10-10, or other complete fertilizer can result in excessive costs and too much phosphorus and sometimes potassium in the soil. Too much of these elements may result in a decline of turfgrass quality, especially in centipede.
The table shows the recommended nitrogen rate of fertilization. If you use a fast-release nitrogen, such as urea or ammonium nitrate, apply no more than one pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet at one time. You can achieve such a proportion by using approximately two pounds of urea (46-0-0) or three pounds of ammonium nitrate (32-0-0) per 1,000 square feet. Higher rates of nitrogen with a fast-release source will result in excessive turfgrass growth, may "burn" the grass, and can predispose the grass to pest damage.
