All the warm weather we have been enjoying lately is stimulating some home lawns to begin showing specks of green. Sure some of that is really the weeds, but deep down amongst them may be new blades of green grass. Like those flowering plants I mentioned last week, many lawns also think it is springtime. Whether it is or not, the last thing you want to do in late February and early March is put fertilize on your lawn. Don’t do that!  It is way too early, two months too early, to fertilize lawns. Fertilizing will encourage the lawn to green-up too soon and only set it up for a potential disaster – being killed by a late spring frost. Again, it is only late February.

For our area, here in east central Alabama, the average last spring frost is usually around April 15^th.  That date is well over a month and a half away.  The weather could definitely turn cold again or back in forth many times before April 15^th gets here.  Therefore, even if you didn’t fertilize your lawn until May, like Extension recommends, there is always a chance some new growth could get burned back and damaged by the cold.  Fertilizing your lawn too early will just force it to green-up faster and increase those odds of it getting killed by a late frost.  Just too risky.

Another word of caution can be said about those weed and feed lawn products that say to apply it in late winter.  Again, this is fertilizing the lawn way too early.  Our southern lawns do not need fertilize during the winter because they aren’t growing.  It is best to wait and apply it in May.  Purchase and apply your herbicides separately if you are trying to control weeds. <>
Speaking of fertilizer, February and early March is the time to fertilize ornamental and shade trees, if deemed necessary. To stimulate growth, fertilize three times a year. Normally, the first fertilization is made in February and later fertilizations 2 months apart.  If the trees are large enough, fertilize only once or not at all. Do not fertilize later than mid-August with nitrogen, or the new growth is likely to be injured by cold weather.

The type and amount of fertilizer to use is sometimes debatable.  Taking a soil test is truly the only way of knowing what kind to use and how much.  The size of the tree or the area of soil to be fertilized also determines the amount of fertilizer to apply.

Fertilizer is not required for the first year if the soil has been properly prepared and fertilized as indicated by the soil test. Normal recommendations for fertilizing shade trees for maximum growth in an unrestricted area is 2 to 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. This is usually applied in a split application in January or February and again in mid- to late June. For example, if you are using 8-8-8 fertilizer, then the rates would 25-50 lbs. of 8-8-8 per 1,000 square feet.  Again, that would be split into two applications. 

Fertilizer rates must be reduced to fit the size of the exposed area. Make more frequent applications or use slow-release fertilizers. This is also true for sandy soils where nitrogen leaches readily from the soil. If slow-release forms of nitrogen are used, up to 6 pounds of nitrogen could be applied per 1,000 square feet. To prevent damage to turf areas, never apply more than 3 pounds of actual soluble nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.

Spread fertilizer evenly under the limb spread of a shrub or tree to avoid burning roots. A shaker jar can be helpful. Sprinkle the fertilizer on top of the soil or mulch and water lightly. Rinse fertilizer off leaves to prevent foliar burn. <>


A few Oriental persimmons varieties that you might want to try are ‘Wase Fuyu’, ‘Fuyu Imoto’, ‘Ichikikei Jiro’, and ‘Fuyu’. These are all non-astringent types. Most Oriental persimmons are self-pollinating so you can just have one.  But once you try one, you’ll be wanting more.

For more information, contact the Tallapoosa County Extension Office at 256-825-1050.

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